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Hi all, I have a kenlowe fan with two wires one is earth ,but I have a controller with two relays which must have been for two fans, ,would any one know if it's possible to use the controller or is there a simpler way of doing it, I would like an override switch as well,if anyone can help I would really apreciate it.

Nick

post-3994-0-86901200-1495123966_thumb.jpg

I found these instructions on line

Edited by had17462
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Well you only need one relay.

Wire the fan earth connection to earth

Wire the fan live connection to one of the relay contacts

Wire the other relay contact to a fused permanent supply

Wire one side of the relay coil to earth

Wire other side of relay coil to the override switch, & to the thermostat.

Wire other side of override switch & thermostat to a ignition switched supply.

 

Bob.

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The trouble with the above (2nd) diagram is that all of the fan current is passing through the ignition switch, & wiring to it.

Better to only have the low current control circuit through there, & the main current from a separate fused direct connection.

 

To get around this you would need to add a relay, wire as in the 1st diagram, & wire the controller ( C & NO) across the switch

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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OK, The controller senses temperature at the top of the rad with a probe which is inserted between the fins, there are two relays, to drive two fans.

I'm guessing (for now -will be testing soon) that one fan comes on at a lower temperature than the other.

a low current manual override is there, which can also be wired into any aircon enabling switch (not relevant to TR's !!!)

This simply forces the fan on if aircon is selected.

 

off to test now.

 

Bob.

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Right:
Bad news is that the Kenlowe controller is Bug****d. Can see how it is meant to work, it can drive one, or two fans, both come on together at either a slow speed, or a high speed (must use special Kenlowe fans with two power in wires plus an eath.)
Thin black wire goes to earth (-ve) thin yellow wire goes to ign controlled supply (+ve), thin green wire goes to override switch which in turn goes to same place as thin yellow wire.
Thick red wires go to fused permanent supply, thick orange wires go to fans slow speed connections, thick blue wires go to fans high speed connections,
Both fans also connect to earth.

Have set up on bench, the relays themselves (plug in) are fine, but the controller does not switch them either by heating the temperature sensor, or by applying the override switch.

Conclusion:
Controller is not repairable as the electronics is completely potted in a hard compound which is pretty much impossible to remove.
The relays are OK, so suggest use one of the relays to power the fan, trigger the relay from an otter switch in the bottom hose, and / or an override switch.
Just having the override switch is a perfectly workable solution, as you just have to remember to switch it on when you see the temp gauge rising, or with a little forsight, when you join the traffic queue.

I will make up a loom to allow this option, & return the kit, with one relay wired up, & a wiring diagram.

 

KenloweFanInstrct.pdf

 

post-12009-0-71833400-1495698967_thumb.jpg

Edited by Lebro
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I had trouble with the newer Kenlowe electronic controller when fitted to a TR as they werent keen on engine bay vibration (as confirmed by Kenlowe themselves after returning 2 of them) We gave up in the end and they sent me an original type sender/controller which has now been in service on that car for 14 yrs no problem.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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I use a Revotec fan in mine, the controller that came with it stopped working after a couple of years, I now have an Otter switch in the metal bottom hose link pipe, working through the original relay - works just fine, although I usually override it if I see "trouble ahead"

 

Nick.

Kit on it's way back to you.

 

Cheers

Bob.

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Is there a suitable switch which could be added to the circuit to both

  1. switch on manually (in anticipation of impending overheating in traffic)
    &
  2. override the thermostatic switch (to turn the fan off in case it comes on too early or to prevent it remaining running after parking)

? (I think I know the answer but if there is a chance of using a single switch rather than two...)

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No real need to add a "turn off" switch Brian, it will go off with ignition anyway.

 

Bob.

 

(Ignoring above post) :D

 

Thanks Bob. I'm not sure whether mine is powered from the ignition circuit or permanent live but the question is relevant for the former. I have heard some cars running the fan for 10-15 minutes after the owner has left the car. Nevertheless your comment is appreciated and understood whereas some others are less than helpful. Having been a member of the TRR since 1972 and a contributor to the forum for many years, it amazes (and disappoints) me that some others with huge knowledge and experience treat the less experienced with disdain. No wonder that we are having so much difficulty in retaining and increasing membership and even more in persuading existing long-standing members to engage with the Forum and other modern forms of communication. Sometimes I wonder why I still care.

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Hi Brian,

I wouldn't panic about the fan running on after you park up. This may have a benefit. It could stop vapourisation in the carbs.

 

I read an article the other day to say that most heat that affects the carb comes back through the manifold to the carb from the head.

 

So the quicker you get the temp down the better it is to restart the engine.

 

5, 10, 15 minutes of run time should have no affect on a decent battery.

 

Roger

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That's how mine is set up and it's no problem at all. Actually it's reassuring to hear it running after shut down.

+1 mine runs on after the key is removed as well.

One thiing I did find (when messing about because the fan temp sender malfunctioned)

I have a warning light under the dash it turned out that this light came on when the temp sender triggered but not necasserily meant the fan was on if it was faulty. False sense of security !

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Right:

Bad news is that the Kenlowe controller is Bug****d. Can see how it is meant to work, it can drive one, or two fans, both come on together at either a slow speed, or a high speed (must use special Kenlowe fans with two power in wires plus an eath.)

Thin black wire goes to earth (-ve) thin yellow wire goes to ign controlled supply (+ve), thin green wire goes to override switch which in turn goes to same place as thin yellow wire.

Thick red wires go to fused permanent supply, thick orange wires go to fans slow speed connections, thick blue wires go to fans high speed connections,

Both fans also connect to earth.

 

Have set up on bench, the relays themselves (plug in) are fine, but the controller does not switch them either by heating the temperature sensor, or by applying the override switch.

 

Conclusion:

Controller is not repairable as the electronics is completely potted in a hard compound which is pretty much impossible to remove.

The relays are OK, so suggest use one of the relays to power the fan, trigger the relay from an otter switch in the bottom hose, and / or an override switch.

Just having the override switch is a perfectly workable solution, as you just have to remember to switch it on when you see the temp gauge rising, or with a little forsight, when you join the traffic queue.

 

I will make up a loom to allow this option, & return the kit, with one relay wired up, & a wiring diagram.

 

attachicon.gifKenloweFanInstrct.pdf

 

attachicon.giffan wiring.jpg

 

attachicon.giffan wiring.jpg

I may have an unused ken low controller / probe - will check sat the w/e

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