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Distance from bell housing to underside of tunnel


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Well,

 

Things are ticking along now with a momentous day yesterday of re-uniting the body tub with the chassis.

A few bits to sort out, but overall a huge milestone for me from where I was approx 3 years and 2 months ago.

 

Ive managed to decipher the shims/packing washers puzzle and am going round making sure Im starting at ground zero as so to speak and have noticed the bellhousing is touching the underside of the front panel.

Ive included a pic as my description is probably poor.

 

IMG_20170518_205252.jpg

 

So its either the engine is too high up, or the shell is too low (im inclined to assume the engine is too high as the shims are all a good tight fit).

 

I fortunately took a few pictures a long time ago (pre-accident) and before the OD went in and this was the clearance then:

 

IMG_0774.jpg

 

I have the engine down on its mounts as best as I can but anyone aware of anything that might cause this? Can the mounts go upside down and cause the engine to sit higher for example?

 

Appreciate any pointers people have.

 

Andrew

Edited by AndrewP
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Hi Andrew

Just been to take a peek at mine. So. Fore and aft it looks to be on the money, however I think the gearbox aft end is way too high!

There's no adjustment on the fwd engine mounts... well none on mine that I can remember!!

 

 

Dave

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Wow..in the immortal words of Ron Burgundy.."that escalated quickly"

tenor.gif

 

Back on topic.

Body looks ok on the chassis. The spacers are not loose not tight so seem to sit fine.

 

 

IMG_20170519_082608-756x1008.jpg

 

IMG_20170519_082535-1008x756.jpg

 

The engine does appear to sit high however..

Can anyone confirm the distance from say the cross member to a point on theirs that I can check?

 

Currently mine sits like this..

 

 

IMG_20170519_082617-1008x756.jpg

 

And mounts look like this..(not tightened)

 

IMG_20170519_082626-756x1008.jpg

 

Thanks

Edited by AndrewP
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Which type of overdrive mount did you fit?

If its the bobbin type have you changed them?

 

How much damage did the car sustain and to where (any chassis repairs, what sort of impact)?

 

I think there's a small adjustment, back and forth, on the front engine bracket (not the rubber mount).

 

Other than the back end of gearbox being to high, it looks like you'll have to back everything off and play with the body and shims, also the engine/gearbox lateral location.

 

Just my opinion only.

 

If I remember correctly there's an artical on 6-pack regarding getting door gaps better but you need a couple of sumo mates and a box of tinnies.

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Sorry Neil the brackets (part No-145385x2 as listed in the Factory spares catalogue) are not handed.

 

The thought did cross my mind though and if all else fails nothing to lose in swapping them over, they may well have deformed in the accident.

 

H.

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Hi Andrew,

was it yourself that put a few pics of your Overdrive on the forum a month or so ago with an issue about the speedo cable take off.

This showed that the OD was not the standard A or J type offering for our cars.

 

If it wasn;t you then ignore me.

 

Roger

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Sorry Neil the brackets (part No-145385x2 as listed in the Factory spares catalogue) are not handed.

 

The thought did cross my mind though and if all else fails nothing to lose in swapping them over, they may well have deformed in the accident.

 

H.

Sorry H but the bolts should face the rear not the front.

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Hi Andrew,

was it yourself that put a few pics of your Overdrive on the forum a month or so ago with an issue about the speedo cable take off.

This showed that the OD was not the standard A or J type offering for our cars.

 

If it wasn;t you then ignore me.

 

Roger

No that was fitted to a red TR4.

Stuart.

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I have just checked my car, and the RH side (manifold side) the access to the bolts is from the front of the car and the LH side (distributor side) access is from the rear of the car, so it looks like yours are the same.

My engine hasn't been out of the car since it was refurbished in 1988 and there is no trouble whatsoever with the bellhousing touching the body as I had the gearbox out in 2011 no difficulty at all.

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Andrew

Pm sent

And the mounts on the block are the wrong way round they are handed

Neil,

I have the same problem as Andrew. Have I too got these mountings fitted on the wrong side of the block?

http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/50/1587750/001.jpg

Peter

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Neil, Thanks. Can't properly see the n/s bracket, the blowers in the way. But the exhaust side bracket looks to have symmetrical angles. Could there have been a change for the '74 CR series ?

Peter

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Peter

Don't know I only have CP cars here, I will take a pic of the other side on a PI car tomorrow if I get chance if it would help.

Neil, Thanks for the offer, but I dont have a really clear view through the six downpipes. The blower is coming off this autumn and I'll be able to get at the brackets properly.

The other problem is altering the engine angle might lift the crank blower pulley closer to the cross-tube......

Peter.

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Gents,

 

Thanks for all the replies.

 

In no particular order:

 

I have a '69 chassis and a correct TR6 A-type OD (Laycock plate 22/61753). The chassis is a good replacement with all the recommended strengthening plates/parts (as the crashed one was too far gone) and checked extensively against the specs.

 

I`ll look at the mounts as I may have them facing the wrong way, but with the same part # for both, I dont think they are handed?

 

Finally, I may have found the culprit in that the 'new' mounts differ from the previous ones. I`l post a few pics if it conclusively fixes the problem once I can swap the offending part over and see how it sits.

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I'll call this one 'fixed'.

 

By swapping over a mount it now sits much better in the tunnel

 

Pic below of the difference (older one with imperial threads on left..'new' with metric on the right)

 

IMG_20170520_165336-1008x756.jpg

 

Seems to be pretty much as it was in my previous photos.

 

IMG_20170520_171605-1008x756.jpg

 

In my findings:

 

Brackets are identical so whether they are L or R same same.

Pry bar between the 'block' on the chassis and engine block gives just enough room between the pulley and steering rack to allow the belt to be replaced (thanks for the tip Neil)

 

Thanks all for the advise..onwards!

Edited by AndrewP
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i believe this picture shows you that they ARE handed

Roy, I think so too- from the photo. Will check the spares I have, somewhere, in daylight. Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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The original brackets on my '74 are not handed. They are, however, asymmetrical. The bracket itself, along with all the mounting holes are identical on the two pieces, but the stiffening plate inside is off center. This means that, as installed, one bracket will have the plate forward of the bracket centerline, the other aft.

 

Ed

Edited by ed_h
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