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Replacing Front Wheel Studs


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Sorry I think this topic has been done to death but I found all the comments very informative.

 

Would somebody please explain the procedure for replacing front wheel studs, and also a

good source.

 

After all the advice I have received from you guys this seems the way forward.

 

many thanks Lee

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In simple terms , wheels off, calipers off and carefully supported, hubs off, separate disc from hub (4 bolts), bash old studs out through hub (threaded section follows stud head through hole in hub), gently tap new studs into the hub, carefully lining up the little splines on the studs with the groves in the hub, the studs will now pull through into position when you tighten up the wheels, re-assembly is reverse of disassembly, carefully set hub taper bearings to give a slight 'rock' when cold.

Cheers Rob

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Rob what a superb description thank you, well I haven't taken the hubs off yet (Friday) but gave the studs a little tap with the copper hammer and they fell out........not good?

 

Anyway will follow Robs directions on Friday thanks...also just a thought while all that's coming off might as well replace the front bearings. Just outers?

 

Need to get the slack just right as the guy at the local MOT centre tells me that there should be NO movement in the front bearings

 

but I always back off one flat so here's hoping

 

Lee

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Hi Lee,

don;t panic too much that the studs came out easy. Once the new ones are in the wheel nuts hold it all together.

 

If they become toooooo loose then they may spin when trying to undo - but that is extreme.

 

Regarding the MOT man and your taper bearings. They must have a very very small amount of movement. Only just detectable.

If they are tight then they can over heat and seize.

If, where ever you go, you have a choice of bearings go for the the better quality expensive ones.

Cheap ones are simply that and will need replacing before too long. Cheap are handy to have in the spares box to get you home.

 

When replacing the felt seal be careful. Many new ones have too much felt and do not sit correctly - may need trimming.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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In simple terms , wheels off, calipers off and carefully supported, hubs off, separate disc from hub (4 bolts), bash old studs out through hub (threaded section follows stud head through hole in hub), gently tap new studs into the hub, carefully lining up the little splines on the studs with the groves in the hub, the studs will now pull through into position when you tighten up the wheels, re-assembly is reverse of disassembly, carefully set hub taper bearings to give a slight 'rock' when cold.

Cheers Rob

Sorry to crash this but this informs me how to swap the discs. (When needed)

Question is it usual to need a hub puller ?

If so what type is best for the 3a ?

Thanks

H

Edited by Hamish
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Need to get the slack just right as the guy at the local MOT centre tells me that there should be NO movement in the front bearings

 

This is often heard from MOT inspectors who are considerably younger than the car they are inspecting!!, and are far more used to modern cars where the 'No movement' requirement is true, however the Workshop Manual directs that you tighten the hub nut until no movement is detected and then back off to fit the split pin. ....... You are obviously doing what most of us do and that's tighten the hub for the MOT!!

Cheers, Rob

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Whilst explaining the adjustment technique for front hub bearings and showing a picture of end - float being measured with a dial gauge bizarrely the TR4/4A workshop manual doesn't actually quote any figure for this end float. The TR6 hub assembly is identical and the WM for this model quotes a required end-float of 3 to 5 thou. Given that, one should be able successfully to argue the toss with an MOT tester unfamiliar with taper roller bearings. On my 4A some years ago I fitted the TRE anti knock-off spacer kit. By judicious selection of shims I found that it is possible to eliminate play completely without the bearings (Timken) binding at all. I assess this by removing the brake pads and spinning the wheel and timing how long it takes to finally come to rest. I then slacken the castellated nut back one flat, refit the split pin and spin the wheel again, trying to use as similar a force as possible and again measure the time to rest. If these two times are more or less the same I am confident there is no binding.

 

Tim

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Need to get the slack just right as the guy at the local MOT centre tells me that there should be NO movement in the front bearings

 

This is often heard from MOT inspectors who are considerably younger than the car they are inspecting!!, and are far more used to modern cars where the 'No movement' requirement is true, however the Workshop Manual directs that you tighten the hub nut until no movement is detected and then back off to fit the split pin. ....... You are obviously doing what most of us do and that's tighten the hub for the MOT!!

Cheers, Rob

..Or offer to sit in and work the horn etc for the tester. You can then keep your foot on the brake pedal, gripping the disc and hub, when he wobbles the front wheels to check the wheel bearings.

 

 

Peter W

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Lee, look for an MOT station where an old bloke, probably wearing a brown coat, usually a family business, usually the dad of one of the mechanics is one of the testers, and he only does a couple of days a week, they love the old cars, cheers, Andrew

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My mot chap (and garage business owner) apparently has a TR3 and understands them. Whilst mine doesn't need an mot I wanted to be sure as I am sprinting mine and may need to produce it to prove road going status.

Thus he had a thorough look. Only having the car less than a year he confirmed it was a very good and a solid car.

But I felt happier he knew what he was doing with an older car.

Votex in congleton for anyone local.

H

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Front wheel bearing slack is the least of your problems, my local garage used to use my TR4 as a "younger mechanics prank" and it failed multiple times on the handbrake "not having a functioning anti release mechanism" ie a ratchet.

The older mechanics would then show the "victim " how a reverse ratchet operates and instruct him to rewrite a pass for the MOT.

 

Mick Richards

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Yes I had that too. Years ago I presented the 4A for test and explained the handbrake was a fly-off. I was told 'Yes, yes, no problem'. 15 minutes later a mechanic came to reception to tell me the handbrake was faulty as they could not release it! The tester had just pulled and pulled, keeping his thumb on the knob thus not allowing the pawl to release. Eventually he jammed it solid and I had to remove a wheel to sort it!

 

Tim

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