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Hi All.

I'd like to Waxoil my chassis legs but have no compressor or gun. I've seen kits available to do at home, is this something worth having a go at or am I better off paying somebody? If so any recommendations around Somerset ?

Cheers Mark.

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Worth trying yourself or Revington must be close to you and offer the service

 

Tom

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Suggest using Dinitrol rather than Waxoyl.

I bought mine from here http://www.rejel.com/rust-proofing/rust-proofing-products/diy-rustproofing-kits/classic-kits/?sort=alphaasc

 

This is a bit more flowable and can be applied externally using one of those garden insecticide sprayers

typical example https://www.gardenlines.co.uk/shop/sprayers/handy-ths5ltr-sprayer-5-litre?gclid=CITjhMXX8tMCFQG17Qod308Dkg

 

To do in the box sections you really need a proper spray head and compressor though I suppose you might be able to improvise something to go on one of those sprayers...... Disposable overalls are good idea too - it's a messy job!

 

Nick

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Hi Mark,

before you start you will need to make holes in the chassis in order to gain access to ALL the box section and there are quite a few.

 

Before you make any holes ensure you have the correct sized blanking grommets - then make the holes.

 

Use a metal coat hangar (straightened out) to see where box sections end - to plot your holes.

Try and get plenty of stuff in and around the T shirt panel.

 

I used Waxoyl on mine and have repeated it every 3 years of so. However when I sorted my NS sill out last winter I found the waxoyl had com e off the metal in sheets and the metal was rusty. Go with the Dinitrol.

On the aircraft we used a rather good stuff - annoyingly I have forgotten the name - something like Astrolan - DaveN might know it.

 

Waxoyl will rust proof your eyeballs - ask me :o

 

Wear paper overalls and a face mask.

Roger

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Thanks Roger.

I wasn't aware the chassis legs were in sections, I presumed I'd have to insert all the way along from the back. I'll order up some plugs and a paper suit.

Black or clear ?

Thanks again Mark.

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I have been using Waxoyl since it appeared back in the 70`s and they used to do a DIY applicator with a pump to pressurise the can and a wand to go in the chassis legs etc.

I have no idea why it came off yours Roger but I have never had that problem.

I proved its worth when I stripped my 4a down after the accident last year, bearing in mind that car was put together nearly 25 yrs ago and is used in all weathers there was only a very small bit of corrosion and that was under the Surrey corner where water must have got under the deck seal (since changed)

I have some Dinitrol here and TBH its like piss and on a shiny panel (How we do the undersides) it just runs off. Im not impressed with it and shall continue using Waxoyl.

FWIW clear looks better than black.

Stuart.

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On the aircraft we used a rather good stuff - annoyingly I have forgotten the name - something like Astrolan - DaveN might know it.

 

Roger

'Someone rang'?

 

 

' Astrolan ' That's the stuff, you got it right Roger. We do still use it along with Socopac, another excellent product and LPS3.

It's a good job all this stuff is 'lifed' when it comes to aircraft use as we are able to get time ex stock!

The Socopac actually dries quite hard and puts up with exposure to the elements rather well, Mach 0.83..... 38k feet above the earth and minus 47c. My doors are full of it!

 

LPS 3 is more like waxoil the coneheads use that for something or other I think due to its insulation properties.

 

I seem to remember many moons ago chap on Tomorrow's World demonstrating what I'm sure was LPS3 were he sprayed it liberally over a 'mains' electric drill picked it up running and holding it plunged it into a tank of water!!

I may have a go at that myself?????????????????

I THINK NOT,!!

Edited by DaveN
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I have used waxoyl in their pump-up can and with a compressor/shutz gun. The gun was more exciting when the can burst-and messy.

I found the pump-up can method is OK if the waxoyl is diluted about 10% with white spirit then heated in a bucket of boiling water. It becomes really runny and you get a good spray. Its best to apply it on a hot summers day so the steel is not cold.

Where to spray it..."everywhere".

Bits I missed and later found rust:

between the floor and top rail of chassis including T shirt top

Trailing arm mounting chassis section

corners of the windscreen frame ( inside)

rear edge of bonnet

between the base of the front wing and sill.

rear valence, lower half inside and outside, especailly where the bumper bolts clamp the two together.

door bases

 

Its a messy task.

And the car/garage will smell for weeks afterwards.

Peter

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'Someone rang'?

 

 

' Astrolan ' That's the stuff, you got it right Roger. We do still use it along with Socopac, another excellent product and LPS3.

It's a good job all this stuff is 'lifed' when it comes to aircraft use as we are able to get time ex stock!

The Socopac actually dries quite hard and puts up with exposure to the elements rather well, Mach 0.83..... 38k feet above the earth and minus 47c. My doors are full of it!

 

LPS 3 is more like waxoil the coneheads use that for something or other I think due to its insulation properties.

 

I seem to remember many moons ago chap on Tomorrow's World demonstrating what I'm sure was LPS3 were he sprayed it liberally over a 'mains' electric drill picked it up running and holding it plunged it into a tank of water!!

I may have a go at that myself?

I THINK NOT,!!

If the "---lan" stands for lanolin that is the main ingredient of waxoyl.

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Here are the locations of the internal baffles in the frame rails. There are also a few up front that I don't show. I believe each section has at least one original hole, but drilling a few more might help get to the extremes.

 

EdIMG_0930a.JPG

 

IMG_0923a.JPG

Edited by ed_h
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I have used Bilt Hamber product called deox C which is dissolved in water and then used as a rust removal solution. You leave the rusty item to soak in a container over night. The spanners came out really like new.

 

The advertisement I saw in Practical Classics also shows the results against other products as tested by the University of Hertfordshire.

 

They also make a cavity wax dynax S-50 which comes with a 750ml lance and an aerosol can.

 

What I need is a review of the Bilt Hamber company. Any one used their products?

Edited by Richardtr3a
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Hi DaveN,

LAS Aerospace in Exeter sell the LPS3 on aerosols at £10/can.

 

Hi Richard,

I agree with you on the DeOxC rust remover. It is excellent. It is not a converter but a remover.

The Dynax S-50 also showed extremely well in one of the car mag tests.

 

Bilt Hamber have been around quite a while and do some good stuff.

 

Roger

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Don't mess around with messy stuff use the stuff that the agricultural and plant boys use.

 

Vactan

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VACTAN-RUST-CONVERTER-AND-PRIMER-1LITRE-RUST-TREATMENT/122473698488

 

Spray it (high or low pressure), brush it, wet metal, dry metal. already painted metal, dry and over paintable in around 20 mins, and unlike most soaks into seams, weld joints and between flanges.

 

No connection, just a happy customer for over 10 years who wouldn't use any thing else!

 

Alan

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Hi again.

It appears that rust converter and primers are available, do I just need preserver ?

Thanks for the photo Ed that will be very useful.

Mark.

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Small addition to the above good recommendations:

Before you start applying the conservation product:

Blow out okd debris that may have collected during it's long life with compressed air.

You can buy a cheap compressor or borrow one.

And make sure the cavities are dry.

Good luck,

Waldi

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Quite a lot of info here but in some cases not specific enough to assist you.

 

Hammerite Waxoyl is both a brand of a number of products and specifically one product therefore that does not help a normal person.

 

There are three well know products that you can use inside a body cavity as you have here or behind a wheel arch plastic cover that a number of modern cars have. These products are not up to being sprayed with rainwater and road grit directly but can keep water films off.

 

They are "Hammerite Waxoyl" the product available in clear and black with no other description, it can be a bit smelly and there are suggestions it does not properly stop dripping and can do that on a hot day a year later. I have never used it and it has to be hot to be runny enough it has an antirust additive, there is also Bilthamber S50 and Dinitrol cavity wax all the products are better put in with a compressor but the aerosols with the long wands are OK.

 

They are less smelly and once dryish do not drip again. They are better at creeping. They are runnier than the Hammerite Waxoyl so easier to apply to an extent. Sorry someone has come in to use my two post lift and I will finish this later with the other products the venders sell. To be continued.

 

Back to the message. I have used both the S50 in 750ml aerosols and the Bilthamber in 500 ml aerosols and will be using the Dynax S50 via a compressor in the next week or two. No issues apart from the mess and protect the floor and yourself from the goo.

 

Now on exposed areas Hammerite Waxoyl the "brand" sell either a Stone Chip available in a few colours and overpaint able it is claimed to reduce road noise, comes in a Schultz tin for a compressor or in a 600 ml aerosol.

 

There is another Hammerite another product Underbody Seal with added Waxoyl as a corrosion preventative and it is black, it is basically what you would call underseal and available as a tin to put on with a brush, a Schultz tin for a compressor or 600ml aerosols. I have used it and it is fine to put on but be overalled up, with a mask and all the kit.

 

I have also use Bilthamber UB and UC underbody wax. The UB painted on from a tin and 750ml aerosol and the only comment is that is not jet black, it is a kind or dirty brown and transparentish. I have spoken to Bilthamber on this point and the said that the fully black, blackeners can hold dampness. The UC is transparent and I have used it in boot areas and in engine compartments.

 

I'm told the wax coatings repair themselves if there is a small scratch on them but cannot be used in very high abrasive areas like a non plastic protected wheel arch and in that case the Stone Chip is better but Bilthamber do not have that product in their range.

 

I have used both the Dinitrol Black Stonechip and the Black and Transparent underbody waxes in 500ml aerosols. Again as above Stonechip is supposed to reduce drumming but the wax is self-repairing. Dinitrol advised the Stonechip in unprotected wheel arches and advised a coating of their cavity wax prior to the application of Dinitrol Stonechip.

 

If you use aerosols you do not have to do too much masking prior to applying the goo as the overspray is not that bad.

 

If you have a compressor you do have to use more masking as it can get everywhere.

There are other products that do not spend as much on advertising as the products I have mentioned.

Edited by Eddie Cairns
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Has anyone tried one of these ?attachicon.gifIMG_1454.PNG

Thats a similar type of thing to the waxoyl one, like a garden sprayer that you pump up

Stuart.

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My apologies to Marki in advance.......

 

Regarding the sills; I have yet to pluck up the courage to drill any access holes for waxolying inside them, as there are no drain holes if one of the plugs comes adrift and water gets in.

 

What pray tell is the best way of rust proofing inside the sills?

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Hi Justin,

you must have drain holes in the sill. Water WILL get in even if you think they are sealed.

 

I put access holes in the front and rear end caps for the lance.

There should be drain holes along its length - this will allow lance access and waxoyl and water egress.

 

I take it that the insides of the sills are painted.

 

Roger

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