Quicksilver Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) Hi Darren, Is there in the a garage in the neighborhood with a brake/suspension test center so you can read the force of braking? Normally it is easy to lock the front brakes. ( TR4 no servo) last apk (mot) i had a brake- delay of 6 mtr/second. Marcel. Edited May 11, 2017 by Quicksilver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Go to an MOT station and request a voluntary brake test, they may charge a bit some will do it for a drink in between MOT`s Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted May 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) Dont think there should be a hole between front and rear sections Darren. If the rear pipework leaked it would drain both reservoirs. The whole point of the dual circuit system is for them to have separate reservoirs. Neither of my 6's had any connection between front and rear sections. ( i spent a lot of time on the brakes of the last 6 as had a leaky flare on a pipe when i bought it..... to ages to find!) Steve Interesting, thanks Steve. The "hole" in the reservoir on my friend's car was probably 3 or 4 mm below the top of the bridge. I'm pretty sure he said he'd replaced it recently, so sounds like it might be an aftermarket modification. It wasn't low enough on the bridge to allow either chamber to run too low if the other had lost fluid. Hi Darren, Is there in the a garage in the neighborhood with a brake/suspension test center so you can read the force of braking? Normally it is easy to lock the front brakes. ( TR4 no servo) last apk (mot) i had a brake- delay of 6 mtr/second. Marcel. I had been thinking about doing this. Local MOT chap is friendly and interested in the car, so I can easily pop it down there and get his opinion. There were notable differences in the braking when driving my friend's 6 last night. What I noticed was that his brakes didn't seem to react as fast as mine at the start of braking, but they came on stronger at the mid point and then soon locked. Mine were more progressive and smoother. He did manage to lock them when he drove mine, but it was no where near as easy as it was in his. In terms of stopping distance between the two cars, we both agreed that there didn't seem much difference, but of course there was no science to that test. He said that that my brake pedal wasn't spongy, so he thought the brakes were fully bled. His only other comment was that perhaps it would soon be time for some new front pads. Will keep you updated. Edited May 11, 2017 by TR5tar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Darren, I had new brake pads last year type TRW GDB 936 (also for Saab, € 20,00) and i am ferry satisfied with it. Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Darren Adjust as I stated,you have done good now dont fix what is not broke trust me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Here are the brake-test results from TR4 non servo front left right 2.06 kN 2.05 kN rear 1.61 kN 1.62 kN Total braking force 7.34 kN = 6,9 m/s handbrake 1.16 1.13 kN total 2.29 kN = 2,1 m/s Krs Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Darren Adjust as I stated,you have done good now dont fix what is not broke trust me I'm getting there Neil. I've read the manual and located the adjusters. Just lubricated them as they looked a bit rusty, so I'll let that soak and then go for it. It looks straight forward from the book Here are the brake-test results from TR4 non servo front left right 2.06 kN 2.05 kN rear 1.61 kN 1.62 kN Total braking force 7.34 kN = 6,9 m/s handbrake 1.16 1.13 kN total 2.29 kN = 2,1 m/s Krs Marcel Thanks for that Marcel. I have spoken with local, friendly MOT bloke and arranged to go in on Tuesday afternoon. It'll be interesting to see the comparison with your figures. Cheers, Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Darren In mot words you should aim for 200+ front and 120 rear on the dials. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Useful to know Neil, thanks. I've now made those adjustments you recommended Neil. I've got it so the rear wheels will rotate (once the adjuster is moved back from the position where the wheels locked), but they are not moving freely (spinning by hand) ... they do feel like they are rubbing a little. Is that how it should be, or should I turn the adjuster back a bit more? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 That will be fine,take it for a run they will free off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted May 19, 2017 Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 Darren, how are your brake-testing figures? Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 Hi Marcel, I've not taken it for the test yet. Was meant to go last Tuesday, but work became quite hectic, so had to postpone. Hopefully things will be quiet next week and I can get it done. Will keep you posted. Cheers, Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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