Ray Hill Posted April 29, 2017 Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 I'd be grateful if anyone who has fitted brackets for rear tele shockers, preferably type 2 p/n TT3225x. could tell me the distance between the top of the flat plate into which the shocker fits and the lower edge of the inner wheel arch thanks ray hill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Hi Ray I am about to fit telescopics to the rear of my 4A. Type 1 brackets came with the kit but I am not happy with them so have decided to fit type 2. Surely the distance the top plate attaches to the wheel arch is immaterial because the bottom of the bracket attaches to the old lever arm attachments in the chassis and as the body is bolted to the chassis this distance can no way be altered. That is unless I am missing something. If you are worried about it you can always fit type 2a brackets that do not attach to the wheel arch at all. I thought about that option but this type also attaches to the bump stop attachment and I just cannot seem to be able to remove it, so resorting to the type 2. If any body out there fitted either type 2 or 2a brackets, any tips and hint would be welcome, especially about removing the bump stop. Cheers Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Hi Simon, I have the type 2A fitted (attaching to the original lever arm position). The only problem I found was the camber on the rear wheels, if too negative the tyre would rub on the damper strut. The camber needs to be closer to 0 degrees than 1 degree. If you load the boot the camber goes MORE negative. Fat tyres will not help and serious wrong off-set wheels are not good. Ensure your damper has enough travel. Otherwise it could break the TRailing arm. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 1 degree is surely the difference between a full and empty fuel tank. The top clearance must be miniscule if 1 degree makes the difference. How can one accurately measure/assess rear wheel camber? With the IRS it is changing all the time. Do you measure unloaded? Sitting In the driver's seat must make a difference. Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Hi Simon, the WSM says to place a 50lb sack in each of the two seat. I didn't do that I went for 0 degree without the weight. I was starting from 2.5 & 3.5 degrees negative Indeed the camber is constantly changing with suspension travel. So if you have 2 or 3 degree's then with a full tank and full boot you could be in an area where things are rubbing. Once you have your suspension sorted get the Toe, and camber measured (I used a HawkEye system). If it is more negative than the spec then get it adjusted (not easy) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 I assume tightening the damper makes the camber go more negative and I guess to adjust toe involves the trailing arm attach shims. I am wondering if this telescopic damper conversion is all worth it and simply 25% uprated levers would be just as good with a lot less hassle. Smon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyloz Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 25 % levers every day...the car was designed for them and they work without hassle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Hill Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Thank you all. I made a set of brackets, similar to the type 2 but for my liveaxle 4A. It worked very well. I've now fitted a full IRS chassis. the potholes having got too much for me and being a parsimonous Scot, just want to modify the brackets I've made. If anyone with type 2 could measure the distance from the outside fitting hole for the old lever arm unit to the underside of the top plate then that would solve my problem, well one of many acrtually. Definite a pint in it if you ever come this far North ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Hi Ray I am about to fit telescopics to the rear of my 4A. Type 1 brackets came with the kit but I am not happy with them so have decided to fit type 2. Surely the distance the top plate attaches to the wheel arch is immaterial because the bottom of the bracket attaches to the old lever arm attachments in the chassis and as the body is bolted to the chassis this distance can no way be altered. That is unless I am missing something. If you are worried about it you can always fit type 2a brackets that do not attach to the wheel arch at all. I thought about that option but this type also attaches to the bump stop attachment and I just cannot seem to be able to remove it, so resorting to the type 2. If any body out there fitted either type 2 or 2a brackets, any tips and hint would be welcome, especially about removing the bump stop. Cheers Simon Hi Simon, if bumpstop is ceased then cut it off at base of rubber with an angle grinder or hacksaw and drill out the stud. If this ruins the thread then use a nut & bolt to attach the shock bracket. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britishbest Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 I've just sent my rear lever type to Stevson (thanks Stuart for the tip) He said 25% was way too much and would shake youre fillings out after the guages on the car have imploded. He recommended 15% maximum unless its a race car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Hill Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Simon - I'm not using the supplied brackets but making them myself - if you look at my 2nd entry above you'll see the measurement I need. It would be a real help if you could let me have that cheers Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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