aleda Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Hi Troops- Betty is having her dash re-veneered next month. Whilst it's out hopefully the wipers efficiency can be improved too. Am also thinking of going over to LED instrument bulbs though I rarely drive at night, been in touch with Better Car Lighting Any parts/work you recommend I might also need whilst the dash is out? Don't want to waste the opportunity. All input gratefully received, Many Thanks and Happy Drive It Day on Sunday! Christine Essex Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) When refitting the oil pressure gauge make super sure the sealing washer is in place Led instrument bulbs, in green, look great but cannot easily be dimmed I removed the old air tubing and replaced with new, omitting the downward facing cold air vents that i never use, give some more space and better air flow. Steve Edited April 21, 2017 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Check or Replace any Rubber Heater Hoses. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Check and replace wiper wheel boxes (or grease and turn spindles through 180 degrees). Adey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) Hi Christine, as per other advice on the wipers. When/if you come to re-lubricate the drive wire - use a light grease with a low freezing point. Most LM greases get quite stiff when cold (it is usually cold when it is raining). Use something like Aeroshell 7 (on ebay). This will help the wiper motor when most needed. Roger PS - what is the dash top crash pad like - consider replacement if tatty. Edited April 22, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Hi When I did mine recently, I removed the wooden dash (easy) and then thought I would go the whole hog and remove the metal facia to give me great access to the heater assembly to put a new one in. The crash pad is attached to the scuttle rail (which I assume is part of the crash pad) by bolts going upwards from the lip around the facia. (different to as illustrated in the Moss).4 bolts undid quite easily but the 5th would not budge. I felt anymore force would snap something so I abandoned the attempt and reassembled it all. Annoyingly, I could not get one bolt to bite. What does this bolt go into? Is it a captive nut or a cage assembly? I bought a beautiful piece of burr walnut veneer but changed my mind as I have not veneered before and thought I could easily mess it up. In the end I sanded it down and then stained it with walnut wood stain. Then about 8 or 9 coats of Morrells gloss lacquer. Not as good as new veneer but a lot easier. I now have the veneer and glue waiting for me to pluck up courage to do the job. If any member out there wants to show/help me do it I am sure a couple of nice reds from my cellar could be forthcoming. A note on dash instrument lights. Apart from one, they were all working (not bad for 40+ year) but thought best to change them as a precaution. I bought from Moss (part No. GLB 987). One has to screw the bulb in quite tight to get contact and every single bulb broke. (the glass rotated in the holder) Back in went the originals and none broke!. Roger, I see you use Aeroshell products. Is that why BA's profits were bad for so many years? :-) I have Aeroshell in my grease guns. On aviation products, there is a great solvent/cleaner called FE10. Use the spray not the foam. It is very expensive and difficult to buy as single cans but relatively cheap in boxes of 24. If any members are interested I will buy a few cases and deliver individual cans at Kent/Surrey meets. I have never seen FE10 advertised outside the aviation environment. It is brilliant in cleaning your garage floor of years of oil. The beauty of it seems to be that it does its job and then vaporises, so great for difficultly accessible jobs. Roger will know about FE10. Cheers Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Use something like Aeroshell 7 (on ebay) No small quantities appear to be available though when I looked! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Hi When I did mine recently, I removed the wooden dash (easy) and then thought I would go the whole hog and remove the metal facia to give me great access to the heater assembly to put a new one in. The crash pad is attached to the scuttle rail (which I assume is part of the crash pad) by bolts going upwards from the lip around the facia. (different to as illustrated in the Moss).4 bolts undid quite easily but the 5th would not budge. I felt anymore force would snap something so I abandoned the attempt and reassembled it all. Annoyingly, I could not get one bolt to bite. What does this bolt go into? Is it a captive nut or a cage assembly? I bought a beautiful piece of burr walnut veneer but changed my mind as I have not veneered before and thought I could easily mess it up. In the end I sanded it down and then stained it with walnut wood stain. Then about 8 or 9 coats of Morrells gloss lacquer. Not as good as new veneer but a lot easier. I now have the veneer and glue waiting for me to pluck up courage to do the job. If any member out there wants to show/help me do it I am sure a couple of nice reds from my cellar could be forthcoming. A note on dash instrument lights. Apart from one, they were all working (not bad for 40+ year) but thought best to change them as a precaution. I bought from Moss (part No. GLB 987). One has to screw the bulb in quite tight to get contact and every single bulb broke. (the glass rotated in the holder) Back in went the originals and none broke!. Roger, I see you use Aeroshell products. Is that why BA's profits were bad for so many years? :-) I have Aeroshell in my grease guns. On aviation products, there is a great solvent/cleaner called FE10. Use the spray not the foam. It is very expensive and difficult to buy as single cans but relatively cheap in boxes of 24. If any members are interested I will buy a few cases and deliver individual cans at Kent/Surrey meets. I have never seen FE10 advertised outside the aviation environment. It is brilliant in cleaning your garage floor of years of oil. The beauty of it seems to be that it does its job and then vaporises, so great for difficultly accessible jobs. Roger will know about FE10. Cheers Simon The bolts do indeed go up into a captive nut, its in a square cage so you are quite likely to end up with it turning with too much force before it breaks the bolt. If you had broken the bolt then you could have got to it with the dash removed and just lift the rear edge of the dash top, then you can open the cage and replace the nut. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) Hi Ian, if there is no Aeroshell 7 on Ebay (there was last year) then LAS aerospace in Exeter sell it https://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=E02VM1YMT FE10 is an excellent de-greasing/cleaning solvent. RS Components sell it as an Aerosol. The fumes are less of a problem than many solvents and it evaporates very quickly with no residue. We use it at BA for cleaning Engine Mag plugs and filters in the search for particles. One of my trophies is a sealed empty 5Ltr can that arrived in a crate of 12. Roger Edited April 22, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Hi Ian, if there is no Aeroshell 7 on Ebay (there was last year) then LAS aerospace in Exeter sell it https://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=E02VM1YMT FE10 is an excellent de-greasing/cleaning solvent. RS Components sell it as an Aerosol. The fumes are less of a problem than many solvents and it evaporates very quickly with no residue. We use it at BA for cleaning Engine Mag plugs and filters in the search for particles. One of my trophies is a sealed empty 5Ltr can that arrived in a crate of 12. Roger That's a bit better! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 ++ to all what the others already mentioned. Adding one more: paint the back of the facia white. It makes working under the dash so much easier when you're on your back, with the pedals sticking in the back of your head, working on the wiring in years to come... Personally I would suggest to ditch the Amp meter and replace it for a Volt meter. An Amp meter is a potential hazard: loads and loads of current running less than 0.5 inch away from a metal plate... Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 Menno, a voltmeter connection that were to touch the metal fascia would also result in loads and loads of current! Of course you could insulate the back of the fascia... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BarryG Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Simon Have a look at http://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-re-veneer-my-cars-wood-trim. I re-veneered my dash board last year with burr walnut following these instructions and i was happy with the result. Takes a bit of time but is well worth it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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