stuart Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 FWIW the switches do suffer from water/damp ingress, they can be dismantled by carefully prising the crimping open and the contacts cleaned and then with the addition of some petroleum jelly to protect the contacts will last for another 50 years. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 ....and yes they are the same..... Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 they can be dismantled by carefully prising the crimping open and the contacts cleaned and then with the addition of some petroleum jelly to protect the contacts will last for another 50 years. Stuart. Love it ! Is this why people buy (or at least stay with) TRs ? AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Love it ! Is this why people buy (or at least stay with) TRs ? AlanR Actually its why I get annoyed at the Yanks for slagging off original Lucas equipment. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Archie: If you want to try a straight substitution to test, I have a spare switch that you can borrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted April 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Archie: If you want to try a straight substitution to test, I have a spare switch that you can borrow. You'll stop at nothing to get me to the LVG meetings !! all kidding aside thanks Brian that's a smashing offer. I'll have proper look using washers and perhaps Stuarts suggestion of cleaning and swapping over the ones I have... probably on Saturday and let you know if that's ok. But either way I'm just pleased Roger has diagnosed the problem cos I could live with it as it is now. As a follow up whilst I've got the gearbox case off what is the proper root for the cable run from the dash to the overdrive unit. At the moment it sort of goes through a grommet in the front bulkhead but then just hangs down behind the engine and disappears under the tunnel case. Archie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 Whenever I see another thread about O/D problems I thank my lucky stars that the PO of Geoffrey pulled the original g/box and fitted the 5-speed Toyota one! I know I'm a Philistine.........................................I'll get my coat! P.S. My TR6's o/d never missed a beat in 10 years of use as my only car........................(OK it was a J-type and perhaps regular use was the answer to keeping it working! ) I'm gone now!! :ph34r: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 You'll stop at nothing to get me to the LVG meetings !! all kidding aside thanks Brian that's a smashing offer. I'll have proper look using washers and perhaps Stuarts suggestion of cleaning and swapping over the ones I have... probably on Saturday and let you know if that's ok. But either way I'm just pleased Roger has diagnosed the problem cos I could live with it as it is now. As a follow up whilst I've got the gearbox case off what is the proper root for the cable run from the dash to the overdrive unit. At the moment it sort of goes through a grommet in the front bulkhead but then just hangs down behind the engine and disappears under the tunnel case. Archie There should be a hole in the metal gearbox cover front left approximately half way up and about inch and a half wide thats where it goes through with a grommet. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted April 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) Cheers Stuart... I don't have a hole in mine (later 59 car) but I may cut one.... is this the same hole as the pre TS50000 cars to get to the gearbox dipstick? Ben they aren't problems they are idiosyncrasies! Can't say too much though cos mine has rack & pinion conversion, electric fuel pump and Revolution wheels! Edited April 21, 2017 by AtLast Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Of course, silly me???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 22, 2017 Report Share Posted April 22, 2017 (edited) Cheers Stuart... I don't have a hole in mine (later 59 car) but I may cut one.... is this the same hole as the pre TS50000 cars to get to the gearbox dipstick? Ben they aren't problems they are idiosyncrasies! Can't say too much though cos mine has rack & pinion conversion, electric fuel pump and Revolution wheels! No that hole is up on the right hand side top of the cover about 6" back from the bulkhead. Stuart. Edited April 22, 2017 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) I took the plunge this evening after another drive in it this afternoon with intermittent overdrive on my 4A. The kidney panels with speakers, cooling fan over-ride switch etc came out, then the heater controls etc, then the H frame, carpets etc. Looking though the observation hole in right hand side of my gearbox cover I could see the lever moving as I engaged overdrive (in gear but stationary on my driveway) so I knew it was working through the full system. I then took the gearbox cover off and after a few tries noted that with a slightest of pressure on the gearstick in fourth the overdrive disengaged. I checked the front switch on the top of the overdrive (it does third and fourth) and it was slack. After a quarter turn or so by hand and rechecking that slight movement of the gearstick it then stated in overdrive. So it seems as if my problem was the switch being loose / not sufficiently screwed into the lid. Unfortunately in all of the work I seemed to have snapped one of the pins on the other switch on top of the gearbox that (was added later and ) operates my reversing light so I will have to renew that switch before I can put it back together again. Are they all the same as mine appear to be different across the three switches? And as I seem to have three different styles of switch is there a particular knack to fitting one in ensuring it's screwed in enough to work but not too far to cause a problem? Paul Edited May 1, 2017 by PaulAnderson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Hi Paul, the switches are the same. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Seems Paul and I have had the same issue... now I've resolved it I'm going to rewire the relay so I can run the cable correctly. What capacity cable should I use especially for C2 terminal down to the solenoid... I've got some 17amp rated here but the relay is up to 30A so should I be going heavier? Thanks again in advance. Archie PS. Paul use this link that CliveG directed me to http://tecb.eu/onewe...vice manual.pdf and on page 202 is shows how to adjust switches Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Hi Archie, the 'A' type OD solenoid takes about 1amp to hold in and 5 - 10amps to pull in (but for only a second or so.). Your 17amp cable should work fine. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Thanks Roger once again!! Really appreciate the advice. Archie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 An update. Set off on a long journey yesterday and after about about 20 mins the old problem of overdrive repeatedly dropping out reappeared. That continued for the next few hours then after one rest stop it stayed in fine for the next couple of hours. Don't understand it unless there was a bad connection and I disturbed it. Will have to investigate when I get back. Didn't stop raining all day yesterday so not conducive to working on a TR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 Possibly this ? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/62022-newn-on-me/page-2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtLast Posted May 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 (edited) Hi Paul as you know I've been having the same problem. I thought I'd fixed it by adjusting the isolation switches (removing a washer in my case) but once again it stopped working after a while. However, Brian Chidwick made a suggestion to me last week which appears to have fixed it (thanks Brian!). Brian suggested adjusting the solenoid operating valve lever forward a bit. The manual says to insert a 3/16th pin in the opposite side to line up with the hole in the metal casting but it seems this isn't always accurate and sometimes the lever needs to be aligned a little bit further forward. I did that yesterday and so far so good. Hopefully out for a longer drive today to so I'll report back. There is a good youtube video of someone adjusting this using https://youtu.be/Gdsjd4Q_JFMalthough I simply moved it forward a bit as I don't have a dial indicator. I'll ask a question of the experts... can you do any damage by having the lever set to far forward (or back for that matter)? UPDATE: After a longish drive yesterday pleased to report the overdrive is working sweetly. So Paul to summarise the things I checked were the wiring following the Buckeye guide (was all ok), then the isolation switches (this partly resolved it) and finally the solenoid operating lever (this fixed it). Thanks again to everyone for your input on this. Edited May 22, 2017 by AtLast Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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