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Pertronix Ignitor III and spark plugs


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So, I've got everything buttoned up and was dialing in the timing and A/F mix. The plugs look great, except I am getting some spotted deposits of black/brown on the white insulator. So, from what I am reading that's an indication the plug is too hot? Running a new set of NGK BPR6HS plugs. It seems to want to "stutter" at 2K RPMs or less when I gas it and fires but misfires when light on the throttle. Once I am on it, it's smooth and pulls great. The timing mark on the plug strap is dead center on the curve of the strap.

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Will dump the Resistor plugs and get some good old fashioned plugs. I did notice if I set at idle the timing to 8, at 4K, it's pulling almost 30 degrees? What should I be at top end on timing with full vacuum and weights kicking in?

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"splashed" deposit means bad engine tuning but is unrelated to the type of plugs you're using. I'm a big fan of de-coking before any serious mixture tuning.

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Plugs swapped, no better I am afraid. It's like at idle there isn't enough timing, but once it revs up, there is plenty. If I dial in more advance, it's too much at higher RPM and pinging starts...

 

Could a voltage regulator have gone bad again and not sending enough voltage at lower RPMs?

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Have you changed the A/R springs on the bob weights? Moss do a set of stronger springs, if you use one or two of these in place of the original soft springs they will allow more initial advance without overadvance at higher revs. This is what unleaded fuel needs, anyway it works for me.

Chris

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Interesting update:

 

Played around with the timing light. Coil wire fires the light constantly, #2 and #4 fire constantly, but #1 and #3 are intermittent at idle speed? I tried swapping caps/wires, but same thing? Would this simply be a Pertronix issue?

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Have you changed the A/R springs on the bob weights? Moss do a set of stronger springs, if you use one or two of these in place of the original soft springs they will allow more initial advance without overadvance at higher revs. This is what unleaded fuel needs, anyway it works for me.

Chris

Thanks, have not done tht. Just bought the rebuilt 25D from NW British Parts with the Ignitor III.

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Interesting update:

 

Played around with the timing light. Coil wire fires the light constantly, #2 and #4 fire constantly, but #1 and #3 are intermittent at idle speed? I tried swapping caps/wires, but same thing? Would this simply be a Pertronix issue?

 

Could it be a cracked dist. cap. 1 & 3 are next to each other so check for a carbon track inside the dist cap.

 

Hmmm, I see you changed the cap, what about the rotor arm?

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

Edited by graeme
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The pertronix knows nothing about 1342 or whatever...it only sees the spark trigger....so if it's consistently certain cylinder:

Do you have a trigger magnet fitted on the dizzy cam?? Could this be somehow wonky so that it only triggers certain cylinders??

If you connect a spare plug to the No3 HT lead and start it up:does it spark when plug is touched on d engine? If yes, will it also trigger your timing light?if yes then No3 plug is bad.

If No and No then since you changed the leads already that would point to cap or rotor...but that's hard to believe when you have electronic ignition with a big fat spark...

One other thing...distributor phasing...aftermarket pickups replacing points can alter the relative angle of points triggering and.position of rotor arm...since the rotor arm advances with mechanical advance you can get situations where the rotor arm is pointing closer to the wrong cylinder. Can check this by drilling a large hole in the top of an old dizzy cap close to No1 ...then connect your timing light to the No1 HT lead n shine it thru d hole to check the rotor arm points roughly towards No1 1000~3000 revs.....if not then your pickup is in the wrong place inside dizzy.

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Hmmmm..... apologies if I have missed something and this is already covered - but I didn't think the igniter III was the recommended Pertronix for a TR4, I thought it also had a 'multi-spark' ability which upsets the use of a timing light and needed a different coil.

 

Personally, I'd be using an Ignitor II.

 

....... Andy

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Flame Thrower III coil came with the package from BP NW. Allegedly they have moved to the III. They won't be in until tomorrow to bounce things off them, though. It's just odd #1 and #3 are firing intermittently at idle. I've replaced the coil, distributor, cap, wires, ignitor, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, new fuel tank, blew out all the lines, but still not pulling right. If I had hair, I wouldn't have any anymore. LOL

Edited by F1loco
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I'll be a monkey's arse...had yet another extra rotor laying around - noticed the contact was crimped in both the others. Low and behold, it runs well. Attaching pic. Thinking too rich still? Sorry for the blurry shot.

 

IMG_2334_zpswibnbbid.jpg

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Central electrode is quite white which indicates weak at higher revs. End of plug body is black which indicates a bit rich at idle or oily at idle.

Clean all black off plug and do a fast run then cut engine under power and coast to halt and check plugs.

Chris

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