F1loco Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 (edited) Well the newly rebuilt 25D and Ignitor III arrived. Double checked everything before removing, TDC, rotor at #1, compression stroke. Removed the old on and went to drop the new one but it wouldn't drop all the way in - out about an 1/8". After double checking measurements on the new one I rotated the rotor 180 for giggles - low and behold it dropped right in, but now it's pointing to where my number 4 was on the old one at TDC? Is there an easy fix for this? Do I simply wire up the order on the cap 1,3,4,2 starting at what was #4? Did something happen when they assembled the distributor and it's simply 180 out? Edited March 26, 2017 by F1loco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Easy fix is to do what you say about swapping HT leads. Swap 1 with 2, & 3 with 4. More complex fix is to rotate the shaft 180°. I would go for the easy option. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 How hard is the correct way? Got this thing torn apart and might was well make it right - unless it's too much of a PITA. Is it the distributer that was assembled backwards by 180? If that's the case, I'll send it back to them to make it right and make it their PITA. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Personally I would rotate the shaft 180. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted March 26, 2017 Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 Send it back.....If you are sure you have the drive offset in the correct position its very easy to be wrong.....Don't ask:-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2017 All I know it was running - albeit poorly - confirmed TDC and compression stroke and rotor was at #1. The new one drops in but rotor is at #4. But hypothetically - what if the PO had their distributor shaft backwards or put in the cam gears wrong? At TDC it does seem to point to the #1 pin sleeve on the head. I put a piston stop in today to confirm TDC and the dot is pretty much spot on with the pointer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 While at TDC, check the offset of the distributor drive. Is it as per the WS manual? If not remove and turn 180 deg. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 +2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Thanks guys. I'll have to call them when they open and make arrangements to have it sent back. Just when you think you are about finish ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Of course don't exclude that they may have assembled it correctly and that it had been incorrect before and the drive gear positioned 180 out to compensate! Before sending back I'd check the drive gear offset is as per manual at TDC #1 Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Post 7. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 While at TDC, check the offset of the distributor drive. Is it as per the WS manual? If not remove and turn 180 deg. Cheers Graeme Hard to tell from the shop images I can find online but the smaller offset is on the bottom (southwest corner) as the old distributor rotor was pointed at #1 at #TDC which seems to be correct from what I can tell? If that's the case, I may just be able to punch the pin out of the distributor and rotate the alignment spline 180 and re-insert the pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Hard to tell from the shop images I can find online but the smaller offset is on the bottom (southwest corner) as the old distributor rotor was pointed at #1 at #TDC which seems to be correct from what I can tell? If that's the case, I may just be able to punch the pin out of the distributor and rotate the alignment spline 180 and re-insert the pin. The small offset should be top (north east). I suggest this is the problem and if you reset the drive gear your new dissy will work fine. Good luck Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 The small offset should be top (north east). I suggest this is the problem and if you reset the drive gear your new dissy will work fine. Good luck Graeme Well that's not good. If I understand the procedure correctly I have to lift the entire drive gear shaft out, disengaging the gear with the pump gear and then have to worry about a key falling out into the sump along the way? If I were to drive the pin out of the bottom of the distributor shaft and rotate the locking/alignment offset pins, will that accomplish the same thing? Guessing this is what the previous owner did do then, and the new dizzy was probably put to together correctly. Do I need to worry about anything else then? Supposedly at this TDC compression stroke my front two valves barely wiggle whilst the #4 are lock solid with new movement at all. Does all this sound correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 The front two valves should both have the nominal clearance of 10 thou, the last two should be "rocking" i.e. 1 nearly closed, & the other just starting to open. and the mark on the crank pulley should line up with the tang on the timing cover. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 F1loco - I don't think the key is likely to fall out. It's not a loose fit. But I cannot give any guarantees! AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Just to be sure put a small centre punch pop in the key which will keep it tight when you tap it in. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) The front two valves should both have the nominal clearance of 10 thou, the last two should be "rocking" i.e. 1 nearly closed, & the other just starting to open. and the mark on the crank pulley should line up with the tang on the timing cover. Bob. Dizzy key reversed and all aligned. I checked the clearances at TDC of the valves - do these look correct? I don't take anything for granted from the previous owner being correct: Starting at the 1st valve 1st cylinder backwards toward the cowl: .005 .008 .008 0 .009 0 0 0 Thanks again for all your help guys - Don Edited March 28, 2017 by F1loco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Didn't you already set your valve clearances? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted March 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Didn't you already set your valve clearances? Pete Well I thought I did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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