Jump to content

Video to build 4 Cyl Engine


Recommended Posts

Very good but a little surprised there was no reference or check to crankshaft end float.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That is why I added E&OE to the post - It is a very useful guide, although not using all the engine building techniques I would have.

Rear oil seal alignment being but one.

Proof is that his engine runs.

 

Peter W

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Proof is that his engine runs.

 

Peter W

Yes Pete, but will it run in 5 years or 10,000 miles ?

 

So many basic errors that will cause that engine to be a poor performer and not water tight. Probably not his fault because I get the impression it's his first TR wet liner engine and nobodies "wet nursed" him through the must do's. Trouble is it's on youtube (it's been posted before here), and the unknowing will maybe follow his example and gain the TR engine an unwelcome and undeserved "unreliable" or difficult to rebuild reputation.

Far better to follow the workshop manual (or even the Haynes) which will get all mechanics on the right track.

 

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes Pete, but will it run in 5 years or 10,000 miles ?

 

So many basic errors that will cause that engine to be a poor performer and not water tight. Probably not his fault because I get the impression it's his first TR wet liner engine and nobodies "wet nursed" him through the must do's. Trouble is it's on youtube (it's been posted before here), and the unknowing will maybe follow his example and gain the TR engine an unwelcome and undeserved "unreliable" or difficult to rebuild reputation.

Far better to follow the workshop manual (or even the Haynes) which will get all mechanics on the right track.

 

Mick Richards

+1

Peter W

 

PS Is it not the issue that the internet is anarchic?

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps a list of the most serious errors could be listed here for the unwary ?. I noticed that he didnt use an alignment tool for the rear seal installation, did not use sealant on the fo8 rings before he checked for liner protrusion (but glad he switched from the steel fo8 to the copper), did not use sealant on the few external block bolts that go into oilways. I question the use of oil vs assembly lube but probably not a big issue since he was not going to let that engine sit for a long time before starting it. I have always understood that you really need to pack the felt/sealant pieces into the rear main channels (bit the gasket kits dont give you enough).

 

What else ?

 

Overall I enjoyed watching his first attempt at a wet liner engine build and thought he did a good job with the production and presentation.

 

Stan

Edited by foster461
Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps a list of the most serious errors could be listed here for the unwary ?. I noticed that he didnt use an alignment tool for the rear seal installation, did not use sealant on the fo8 rings before he checked for liner protrusion (but glad he switched from the steel fo8 to the copper), did not use sealant on the few external block bolts that go into oilways. I question the use of oil vs assembly lube but probably not a big issue since he was not going to let that engine sit for a long time before starting it. I have always understood that you really need to pack the felt/sealant pieces into the rear main channels (bit the gasket kits dont give you enough).

 

What else ?

 

Overall I enjoyed watching his first attempt at a wet liner engine build and thought he did a good job with the production and presentation.

 

Stan

Agree Stan, I was thinking the same, would be good to have a practical interpretation of the work so others can avoid repeating what may not be considered best-practice by those in the know.

 

....... Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stan,

I posted a basic build list on one of the other threads and it will outline where some extra care and time needs spending as shown below. There's always extra work but this covers the main engine block for a standard road engine, this is what I've found that works...every time over 20 engines.

4 Cylinder TR build assuming major component Cylinder head, Crankshaft are supplied
correctly machined with valves and springs fitted.
Fit Camshaft bearing ..........................................2 hours. Ensure the bearing oil hole lines up with the oil holes in the block, DON'T bruise the bearing when fitting the retaining bolts. Check the camshaft spins freely and doesn't have stiff points.
Drill Dynamo bracket bolts and wire lock............1 hours Bolts go through into the crankcase, if they are not wired they WILL loosen and cause oil leaks over time.

Check engine studs and nuts
condition and fit ..................................................2 hours Discard any studs or nuts with galled (torn) surfaces, clean with thinner if used studs, blow over threads both block and nut with WD40 and wipe dry. Fit the studs and cylinder head nuts dry unless replacing with quality studs where lubrication is recommended.

Dressing engine interior Clean inside block waterjacket, especially around Figure of 8 gasket areas and number 4 liner seat where the draintap is. Make sure cylinder block stud threads are not sticking up, relieve if necessary .
Fit Liners, Fit Figure of 8 gaskets selected dry (stone any burrs off the cut edges so they are flat) Bolt on cylinder head and torque to 105 lb ft using cleaned old head gasket if available. Take up the torque in 3 settings 40-80-105 obviously in the recommended torqueing sequence.
after fit cylinder head-remove
measure fit +record deck heights .......................4 hours Retain liners with large washers where they are "Siamesed" Torque down to about 40 lb ft (not critical). Measure liner heights all liners to be within 3 to 5 thou above block surface measured in 4 positions around each liner. Also along the block length ie 3.3.3.3 or 5.5.5.5 not acceptable to have 4.4.3.5 which will cause reduced clamp where the height is uneven. Mark on the liners their orientation in the block and direction and what the amount is above the block.

Remove liners- to machine top of block .............1 hours It may be that the block and liner surface is even, (I've never seen it yet !) in which case machine the liners individually to achieve the liner height required with the FO8 gaskets selected.

Refit "decked" liners and recheck .......................2 hours Using "Wellseal" or your choice of "non"setting goo onto the FO8 gaskets refit the liners on top and retorque at 105 lb ft with the old head gasket, recheck the liner heights are as you require them, retain the liners in place again with washers as before.

Fit crankshaft main bearings ...............................1 hours Check bearings for burrs or uneven edges, ensure the cylinder block "cups " for the bearings are clean without burrs. Fit bearings with engine oil to be used.(oil because you are checking torques as you go and all my engines are used within a month anyway.)
Fit crankshaft and check turning torques.............1 hours Torque up the crank in 3 different settings until correct torque achieved, Crank should spin by finger pressure only (that's 1/3 of a lb ft).
Check and measure crank end float....................1 hours Use a DTI (clock) to measure end float and set the crank at WSM required figures with different thrust washers. Check the crank still spins freely.

Fit pistons to conrods...........................................2 hours This assumes the conrods have been prechecked for straightness and roundness of the big end and the small end has been replaced and honed to fit.

(piston rings prefitted) ....................................... 1 hour Fit piston rings, either stagger the gaps or don't...who cares ? ( I do, even though I know they'll move) as long as the piston ring gap when measured is a minimum of 15 thou I'm happy.

Fit pistons and conrods to crank and torque up.(make sure the offset is fitted the correct way around), Use engine oil on the big end bearings and check the increased turning torque to the crank added as each piston goes in, varies with engine size and fit but all should be about the same increase as a multiple.
and measure deck heights.........................................2 hours Standard road going engine with standard copper composite gasket aim for 10* (see below) thou deck height below the top of the liner.

Remove Pistons strip from conrods
for machining to deck height as above ...............................2 hours

piston ring removal extra if required)

Remove crankshaft ............................................1 hour

Crankshaft,Pistons conrods front pulley


and flywheel and clutch cover for balancing,
pre prepared and ready.

Refit items after machining


Fit crankshaft and check turning torques.............) Now fit the sealing felts pushing them well down into the main cap machinings pre-soak them in Wellseal
Check and measure crank end float....................)1 hours
Fit rear crank scroll seal............................1 hours Use alignment tool to set scroll * Ensure the correct size is used, workshop manual dimensions are incorrect.
Fit pistons to conrods................................2 hours
Fit pistons and conrods to crank and
measure and check deck heights.........................2 hours
Fit head gasket and fit cylinder head....................2 hours
Fit flywheel clutch and clutch cover......................2 hours
Fit front crankshaft sprocket ............................half hours
Fit front engine plate ........................................half hours
Fit camshaft followers...........................................1 hours
Fit camshaft and pushrods....................................1hours .
Build and Fit Rockershaft......................................2 hours
Build and fit oil pump.............................................1 hours
Build and fit distributor drive and spindle...............1 hours
Time camshaft setting distributor drive..................1 hours Using existing markings, if non available set by DTI allow another 1 hour
Fit timing chain tensioner and timing cover...........1 hours
Fit distributor setting at TDC..................................1 hours
Fit engine sump.....................................................1 hours
Fit Rocker cover................................................half hours

* Original quoted as 40thou below liner height instead of surface of head. Revised to 10thou below liner height for clarity and understanding.

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Mistake in referring to Liner top instead of head surface.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mick we're just starting a 3A Rebuild,if it goes Tits Up at least I've someone to blame.

:P:lol::lol: Walk towards the light Niall, all will be well.

 

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.