PeteT Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hi Sage Ones, Just finishing off converting my TR2 to alternator. I'm now fitting the heat shield and would like to cover the inside surface with soldering mat ( an idea I read on here years ago) my question is what's the best way of attaching it? I've read that silicon will do up to 1200 degrees but I'm not convinced. I could attach it mechanically with rivets but that wouldn't be ideal either. Any suggestions? Regards, Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 TBH you dont really need to fit anything other than the shield except maybe polish the side nearest the heat. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 +1 for Stuarts suggestion. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) Hi Pete ~ I fitted strips of exhaust manifold insulation to my Revington Alternator Heat Shield. I used Alpha AF178 from Woolies to attach the strips. This adhesive is very heat resistant. Tom. Edited March 22, 2017 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hi Pete ~ I fitted strips of exhaust manifold insulation to my Revington Alternator Heat Shield. I used Alpha AF178 from Woolies to attach the strips. This adhesive is very heat resistant. Tom. IMG_1027 - Copy.JPG Not that heat resistant Tom Im afraid. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 My heat shield is a double layer thing formed from two sheets of aluminium with washers separating them and pop rivetted together. It works well. If I was lining a single layer heatshield, I would put plumbers mat on the alternator side held on with pop rivets and washers and I would polish the top surface that faced the exhaust manifold. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 I have used heat resistant material from Merlin Motorsport attached to a Revington alloy shield with a couple of small nuts & bolts. Appears to have worked well for several years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 I trawled around my local breakers yard till I found some heatshield metal on a car which I could actually get to, & remove. From that I cut out what I needed to make up a shield for the alternator Not a very good shot, but you can see the type of crinkled material, which is double thickness. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Mine looks crinkly too. Had to buy a large sheet of it from a specialty metal shop. Aluminium with some super duper ceramic insulation in the middle. The E-type Jag restorer across the road, got the rest of the sheet I didn't use, for free. (Smart lad.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Thanks guys. The heat shield I have is the Revington one (I thought it would be gold reflective at that price). For the extra bit of effort I will line it. Thanks to all. Regards, Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hi Pete, there are some beautiful fabricated shields out there. However all you need is a bent bit of mild steel to stop the radiated heat from the exhaust pipe. A shiny side towards the pipe is a bit of luxury if you wish. Airflow between the Alt and shield will keep things happy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Roger, A man like you should know, the more shiny bits in the engine bay, the better. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Bob and others I am surprised to see that you have not wrapped your exhaust pipes, is that why you need a heat shield for the alternator? My s/s banana is wrapped individually to start, then bring two together further down and then into one at the straight exhaust tube beyond the HT starter motor, and as a result I don´t need a heat shield for the alternator as it doesn´t even get warm. The down side is that the rear over-rider nearest the end of the exhaust pipe goes a straw colour from the heat coming out of the pipe, once it even started to go blueish after a fast 4 hour drive on the motorway., this I think shows that the heat goes out the back as opposed to into the engine compartment, and I believe it gives a faster flow of the gases through the system, which maybe increases performance of the engine. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Roger, A man like you should know, the more shiny bits in the engine bay, the better. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Bob and others I am surprised to see that you have not wrapped your exhaust pipes, is that why you need a heat shield for the alternator? My s/s banana is wrapped individually to start, then bring two together further down and then into one at the straight exhaust tube beyond the HT starter motor, and as a result I don´t need a heat shield for the alternator as it doesn´t even get warm. The down side is that the rear over-rider nearest the end of the exhaust pipe goes a straw colour from the heat coming out of the pipe, once it even started to go blueish after a fast 4 hour drive on the motorway., this I think shows that the heat goes out the back as opposed to into the engine compartment, and I believe it gives a faster flow of the gases through the system, which maybe increases performance of the engine. Dave My exhaust is invisibly wrapped - two coats of ceramic on the inside ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Bob Interesting! but if you still need a heat shield then maybe that method is not as good as wrapping it. Also my ambient temperatures are higher than yours as well. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Hi Pete, there are some beautiful fabricated shields out there. However all you need is a bent bit of mild steel to stop the radiated heat from the exhaust pipe. A shiny side towards the pipe is a bit of luxury if you wish. Airflow between the Alt and shield will keep things happy. Roger Absolutely. Just made one from cut and bent galv steel attaching to front exhaust bolt as Revington. No sharp edges or corners to snag me. Lower down the offside edge curves around the bandaged o/s downpipe with a s/s tie passing through a single hole in the shield and wrapping round the curve. Bit of black high temp paint facing the alternator to minimise the radiation. Air is a good insulator if you minimise the radiation, and moving air even better. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Good scheme mostly Alan, but black paint facing the alternator actually maximises the radiation towards it. The ideal radiator is a 'black body' and that is why most electronic heat-sinks are matt black, so they radiate the heat more efficiently - (and yes I know they mainly work through convection). It probably wouldn't make much difference in practice but in theory its better to have that surface shiny. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanOram Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 I found this topic really ironic, after months of thinking about it, yesterday I made and fitted a heat shield!! (Whilst waiting for parts to arrive from the TR Shop) My previous alternator, fitted 1976 ish, was severely melted, but still operational, but noisy. So ... A stainless steel pot strainer thing ( semi circular,bright SS plate with holes) that I bought from Lidl £3.45 and some turbo heat shield fabric from eBay, £5 and a few pop rivets! Seems to work well and gives the alternator plenty of room to 'breath'. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanOram Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 I found this topic really ironic, after months of thinking about it, yesterday I made and fitted a heat shield!! (Whilst waiting for parts to arrive from the TR Shop) My previous alternator, fitted 1976 ish, was severely melted, but still operational, but noisy. So ... A stainless steel pot strainer thing ( semi circular,bright SS plate with holes) that I bought from Lidl £3.45 and some turbo heat shield fabric from eBay, £5 and a few pop rivets! Seems to work well and gives the alternator plenty of room to 'breath'. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 littlejim: your heat shield looks beautiful, but i fear that it is equivalent to wrapping your alternator in a duvet! As someone else has stated, air is a good insulator, and better still if it can flow. The heat shield needs an air gap on each side: towards alternator and towards exhaust manifold. My heat shield is the one which the Comps Dept fitted in 1962 to protector the uprated alternator from the SAH 4-branch exhaust. Since 1993, it has been protecting the alternator. Neil discovered the effectiveness of the shield when he fitted an alternator to 6VC and cooked the it! So he used the 'design' of the shield on my car to produce the heat shield he sells for alternators. Much cheaper (and less inconvenient) to fit a shield than to cook the alternator or dynamo. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 You guys just use the wrong alternator. I had a Lucas alternator on my 4A fitted with a Phoenix exhaust manifold, along with a heat shield from Revington. The heat shield fractured in short order and was removed, resulting in two failed Lucas alternators in quick succession. 10 years ago, following advice from Tony Sheach, I fitted a Nippon Denso alternator which has been faultless so far. It has endured ambient air temps up to 40 degC and the manifold is not wrapped or coated in anything. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 I fitted a Nippon Denso alternator which has been faultless so far Yup, cracking little things, less weight, less size and all round better design........ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 littlejim: your heat shield looks beautiful, but i fear that it is equivalent to wrapping your alternator in a duvet! As someone else has stated, air is a good insulator, and better still if it can flow. The heat shield needs an air gap on each side: towards alternator and towards exhaust manifold. My heat shield is the one which the Comps Dept fitted in 1962 to protector the uprated alternator from the SAH 4-branch exhaust. Since 1993, it has been protecting the alternator. Neil discovered the effectiveness of the shield when he fitted an alternator to 6VC and cooked the it! So he used the 'design' of the shield on my car to produce the heat shield he sells for alternators. Much cheaper (and less inconvenient) to fit a shield than to cook the alternator or dynamo. Ian Cornish Believe it or not there is an air gap under it. Must test under it and see if any heat gets past the super duper ceramic. The curve was to make sure I protected a fair bit of the alternator that faces the exhaust. Have had no problems, and I put it to the test the last time I blatted up the Clyde mountain bends. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 You guys just use the wrong alternator. I had a Lucas alternator on my 4A fitted with a Phoenix exhaust manifold, along with a heat shield from Revington. The heat shield fractured in short order and was removed, resulting in two failed Lucas alternators in quick succession. 10 years ago, following advice from Tony Sheach, I fitted a Nippon Denso alternator which has been faultless so far. It has endured ambient air temps up to 40 degC and the manifold is not wrapped or coated in anything. Cheers Graeme I wasnt keen on the Revington one for exactly that reason as its too flimsy which is why I made mine out of stainless with a 2mm steel bracket and also I used an extended lower mounting bolt for a mount at the rear, You wont break that and it does its job fine with no exhaust wrap. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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