qim Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 NOT as intended ! AlanR I'll bear that in mind but when you need to stop urgently (and the TR3A's braking system is not the best) braking, changing down, and getting out of overdrive, might be the difference between an accident and a pleasant drive the next day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hi Qim, inside the overdrive there is a circlip (a clip for holding parts together). If the OD is allowed to bang in and out of gear or used as a brake then this circlip will break and that means a rebuild. Indeed, use the gearbox to help slow but not the OD. The brakes always work better than the GB for braking. Get the OD working and then try to engage/disengage the OD smoothly - it can be done. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 I'll bear that in mind but when you need to stop urgently (and the TR3A's braking system is not the best) braking, changing down, and getting out of overdrive, might be the difference between an accident and a pleasant drive the next day. No problem. If the sequence and speed of things are a problem, you can always go out and get yourself a Logic overdrive controller http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1296pk/name/logic-device-kit-with-night-dim-ve I personally have no experience with this device; others do. Next: the brakes: with or without an overdrive: a TR is a lightweight car with big wheels and big brakes. A TR can be stopped without to much problems. There are tons of upgrades for the TR's braking available to be sure that your car can handle 21st century traffic. Again, TR Revington is a good place to start. So is TR Enterprises. Other members will chime in, no doubt. Never opt for a mechanical solution with an old chest (clonking OD) when you can fix this with nice new parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the advice. I will take it! Thanks Now, if I want to adjust the switches on top of the GB, uner the circumstances and my mention of the clonking when I engage the OD should I lower or otherwise the spacers? Or is it done with a feeler gauge? What should be the gap? Edited March 22, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CliveG Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) This should tell you all you need to know: http://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Triumph%20TR2,%20TR3,%20TR3A%20factory%20service%20manual.pdf The gearbox switch adjustment is on page 202. Edited March 22, 2017 by CliveG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Clive, many, many thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Looks like I've been driving my TRs wrong since 1974 as I've had no problem disengaging the overdrive to decelerate - as long as you don't over rev the engine. If the consensus is only to disengage whilst under braking then I'll beg to differ. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hi Pete, I'm completely confused now, You can move in and out of OD as and when it pleases you. Since fitting my DIY logic box I irritate Sue by giving her demonstrations of seamless OD shifting and ask her to spot it. Brakes don't come into it. Boys and toys Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 No problem. If the sequence and speed of things are a problem, you can always go out and get yourself a Logic overdrive controller http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1296pk/name/logic-device-kit-with-night-dim-ve I personally have no experience with this device; others do. I have one in my tr4. It works quite well. I replaced the overdrive column switch with a modern, but classic style pulse column switch. I had to add an extra voltage stabilizer in the feedcircuit to the controller. It was quite sensitive and reacted on Every change in power, like Horns, indicator, etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 22, 2017 Report Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hi Pete, I'm completely confused now, You can move in and out of OD as and when it pleases you. Since fitting my DIY logic box I irritate Sue by giving her demonstrations of seamless OD shifting and ask her to spot it. Brakes don't come into it. Boys and toys Roger Quite so Roger. I only commented because it seems to me that two contributors do not advocate switching out of overdrive to decelerate. Perhaps I read both posts wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CliveG Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Qim Hopefully and more likely your problem will just be a faulty or mis-adjusted switch, or a wiring issue, but if not I thought it worth sharing with you that when I got my TR3a the OD on 2nd did not work. I spent months checking wiring, and adjusting and replacing switches until I realised there had to be something missing inside the gearbox top cover. It turned out that whilst the top cover had the switch for 2nd , the selector fork was from a non overdrive car. I was able to get an exchange unit relatively cheaply which solved the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Quite so Roger. I only commented because it seems to me that two contributors do not advocate switching out of overdrive to decelerate. Perhaps I read both posts wrong. There is nothing wrong with switching out of overdrive to decelerate it's how you do it that matters. If you switch out on a trailing throttle there will be a jerk. What you need to do is to hold the throttle level or increase slightly while you change out and then close the throttle to decelerate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 ...when you need to stop urgently (and the TR3A's braking system is not the best) braking, changing down, and getting out of overdrive, might be the difference between an accident and a pleasant drive the next day. BS. The brakes on a TR3A are excellent. Properly set up brakes and managing lockup will stop a lightweight TR better than many moderns. There should be no need for engine braking to supplement the original system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 +1 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 +2, a quick blip does it for me Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 I think the general point here is - Obviously, dropping out of overdrive, with foot off the throttle, is going to slow down the car, and will therefore aid braking. IMO it's not a good idea to use dropping out of overdrive at highish revs as the sudden drop in revs puts extra strain on the overdrive and other parts of the drive chain. As for the comment saying "no benefit having overdrive on 2nd" - I'm gobsmacked. Sitting behind a slower vehicle, waiting for an opportunity to overtake - in 2nd overdrive giving reasonable revs: opportunity comes, flick out of overdrive to instantly get more power, scream past and flick back into overdrive as you go, so no need to waste time with a gear change until you are well past. Can't believe I'm the only one to drive like that ! ! AlanR AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) You're not Alan! before someone comments I should have said: Alan, You're not. Edited March 23, 2017 by mike ellis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Qim Hopefully and more likely your problem will just be a faulty or mis-adjusted switch, or a wiring issue, but if not I thought it worth sharing with you that when I got my TR3a the OD on 2nd did not work. I spent months checking wiring, and adjusting and replacing switches until I realised there had to be something missing inside the gearbox top cover. It turned out that whilst the top cover had the switch for 2nd , the selector fork was from a non overdrive car. I was able to get an exchange unit relatively cheaply which solved the problem. The OD in 2nd always worked in my car since the 70s when I bought it. It stopped working recently. Since reading through the manual that you sent me I decided to wait until I can fine tune the switches (or get a knowledgeable local mech to do it for me...) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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