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Front Shock absorbers


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Hi Folks,

 

Currently rebuilding my front suspension while the engine is out of the car for a rebuild.

 

Can you help with a few questions please -

 

I dont know a great deal about adjustable shock absorbers but everybody seems to suggest them, does the adjustability alter the ride height as well as the stiffness, I cant find a definitive answer? If I go this route would you generally need to replace the springs also.

 

Lastly for a Live axle TR4A would I go for a TR4A IRS front shock absorber or a TR4 one? Listings dont say TR4A live axle.

 

Many thanks

 

Colt

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Hi Colt,

the adjustment of the shock/damper does not affect the height.

You shouldn't need to change the springs as they do different things.

 

I would have thought that the TR4A front remains the same independent of the rear end.

 

Roger

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+1 for both of Roger's answers. If you want adjustable ride height you'd be looking at a coilover conversion and I've never seen one of those for a TR. I have adjustable shock absorbers all round and it's moot as to whether they're necessary at the front as I have mine set at minimum. Anything more firm results in a nasty ride on our cr@ppy roads.

Edited by peejay4A
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For a solid axle 4a (as I have) then adjustables on the front (4A ones) set around 6 clicks and uprated rear lever arms work really well with standard springs, a little harsh on rough country tracks but get on the open road and it will handle well with no need for an ARB.

Stuart.

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Hi Colt

 

The front suspension on the 4A was quite different from the 4. The lower wishbone mounting was raised to change the front roll centre to go with the new roll centre of the independent rear. I presume that they standardised that for all 4As even with a live axle. If your lower suspension mount is above the chassis, you have the 4A mounts. Have they been strengthened with the after market kit?

 

Rimmers list different springs and shocks for 4s and 4As so you will need to identify which one you have.

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I definately have 4a so that's what I'll go with. I don't yet have a reinforcement kit and do have slight damage to one mount. The car will be stripped fully in a few years.

 

I think Pete makes a good point that the roads are so crappy with potholes that standard may be just fine if adjustable offer no improvement at that end of the scale.

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Thanks guys that's helpful.

 

Stuart I saw an old thread on rear suspension mods of a live axle 4a

and no telescopic kits seemed available. Do you know if that's still the case

or can they be adapted?

TBH I would go with the original front springs if they are still OK and also the same with the rears as the only replacement rear spring is too cambered and so the car sits high at the rear. There is no conversion for rear tube shocks for them and TBH I wouldnt bother just get your rears uprated by 25% by Stevsons http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk

Stuart

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I think Pete makes a good point that the roads are so crappy with potholes that standard may be just fine if adjustable offer no improvement at that end of the scale.

Hi

I urge everyone to do what I do and report potholes and damaged roads. Once you get used to your councils website there is normally a 'Report it' tab or similar. For example Slough Council consider anything over 50mm (2inches) to be in urgent need of repair! South Bucks measure in the diameter of a football <_< .However for the sake of a few minutes of your time I think its worth it. Currently a road to near me is single lane and traffic light controlled because I've kept reporting damage. :D:D

 

dave

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Thanks Guys. Stuart what does uprated by 25% actually mean? Is this uprated stiffness so internal mods are done? Sorry if a silly question.

Yes exactly that, they are re-valved internally to provide the extra absorbency.

Stuart.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Pete

I am new to the TR register (I have just renewed membership after a 25 year absence. I bought my 4A in 1975 had it restored in 1985 and now have I just retired I am doing all the jobs I have meant to do over the last 30 years. I am putting slightly lowered and stiffer springs, plus adjustable shocks all round (Spax), The kit from Rimmer came with the type 1 attach brackets that only mount onto the wheel arch. I am not happy that this is robust enough so thinking the type 2 or 2A attachment brackets may be the answer. I see from your post you have telescopic all round. What attach brackets did you use?

I have removed the old lever dampers and tried to remove the lower bumper stops (in anticipated of putting on the type 2A ) but could not undo the nut.. Is this welded on so the stop just unscrews or does the nut eventually give way. The nut is not easily accessible because of the bracket.

Advice most welcome

 

Thanks

 

Simon

 

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Hi

I urge everyone to do what I do and report potholes and damaged roads. Once you get used to your councils website there is normally a 'Report it' tab or similar. For example Slough Council consider anything over 50mm (2inches) to be in urgent need of repair! South Bucks measure in the diameter of a football <_< .However for the sake of a few minutes of your time I think its worth it. Currently a road to near me is single lane and traffic light controlled because I've kept reporting damage. :D:D

 

dave

You might report them in Gloucestershire, as I do, but do not hold your breath waiting for them to be fixed! The ones I have reported take many weeks to get fixed & then in the typical cheap shoddy way that is usual. Back to he same condition they were. Go to Cheltenham, one of more wealthier UK towns I would suggest, & see the state of many of the roads! A disgrace!

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Hi Monty,

the good thing about reporting the potholes is that the Council can;t get out of compensation by saying they didn;t know.

 

If it is reported then the council become responsible for any damage caused.

 

Roger

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Hi Monty,

the good thing about reporting the potholes is that the Council can;t get out of compensation by saying they didn;t know.

 

If it is reported then the council become responsible for any damage caused.

 

Roger

Thats unless your local council does what they do out here in Bucks, they simply stick a 'temporary road surface' sign at one end of the road, one a the other, then they can deny all culpabilty for the whole road !

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Hi Roger

Thanks for the response. Yes those attachment brackets are the type 2A. I received type 1 brackets (do not attach to the chassis) with the kit from Rimmers, I think I will swap them for the type 2A, as long as I can remove the wretched bump stops! You say it unscrews. Does that mean the nut it screws into is of the captive/welded type?

How do you find your telescopic shocks? Big improvement? I ask because reading the posts it appears that Stuart the TR Guru is not a fan of them.

I am in Westerham Kent. By the way were you ex BA?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

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Hi Simon,

the struts have been a very good improvement compared to what I had originally.

However, what I had originally was probably rubbish. If I had used new, quality levers then I would probably be just as happy.

 

Stuarts post #8 gives a link to someone who can provide very good levers - this would be very cost effective as you don;t need the brackets.

 

If you suffer form excessive negative camber then the tyres can rub against the struts. As you load up the boot the camber goes more negative.

 

Yes, I'm still ex BA. Retired in 2009 Had a finger in running the NDT unit at LHR.

Were/are you at BA.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger

I will stick with my spax and use the type 2A brackets.

I was BA from 1969 until 1992 when I took voluntary redundancy. VC10's then DC10's (Air New Zealand) and then the flying deferred defect the Tristar (yuck).

 

Just put on brand new 5.5 wire wheels as the originals were awful. There is still a very small vibration 40-80 mph which I do not think is balance. Have you done the poly bush swap at the front end?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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