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Rear shock absorbers brackets ?


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Hello guys,

 

I would like to find a pair of rear shock absorbers brackets, as fited when one swap rear lever arm shock absorbers for telescopic ones (as Spax, Koni or Gaz).

 

I'm after a set of RR1403 (reference found on Rimmer' website), they don't need to be new :

 

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RR1403.

 

 

Who can help ?

Edited by Chris59
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Look also for type three.

They look nice when fitted

are stiffer and stiffen the rear.

 

I have them in two TRs for years,

not difficult to fit and reliable.

 

post-13092-0-53017400-1489840917_thumb.jpg

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Wow, nice brackets in alloy, Graham ! It would be a shame to butchered these, but, just in case, please drop me a pm about price, thanks ;)

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Morning guys, I'm still (steel ! ^_^ ) after a set of steel brackets, please have a look in your barns/sheds/garages/kitchen and, eventually, under your bed, thanks !

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Chris,

A number of us in the North London Group are going back to lever arm shocks as per original but new ones from Moss 25% uprated. As we are getting older, comfort is more needed

and the state of our pot holed roads are causing damage to the foot of the trailing arms with tubed shocks.

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

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Hello Harry,

 

I know there is a risk of failure of the trailing arms with tube shocks, but only if shocks are adjusted excessively "hard", to "stiffen" the rear suspension.

 

This role should be assumed by the springs only !

 

BTW, it would be interesting to find progressive springs.....

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Hello Harry,

 

I know there is a risk of failure of the trailing arms with tube shocks, but only if shocks are adjusted excessively "hard", to "stiffen" the rear suspension.

 

This role should be assumed by the springs only !

 

BTW, it would be interesting to find progressive springs.....

More the fact that if the shock bottoms out before the trailing arm hits the bump stop then all the load is taken on the rear end of the TA.

Stuart.

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And top and bottoms nuts of the shocks overtighten.... You're partially right Stuart, both are consequences of the same problem.

 

Please remember that I open this topic to try to find a pair (or more) of this brackets, second hands would be welcome : dear NLG members (and others), what have you done with the ones you've removed from your cars ?

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Hello guys,

 

I would like to find a pair of rear shock absorbers brackets, as fited when one swap rear lever arm shock absorbers for telescopic ones (as Spax, Koni or Gaz).

 

I'm after a set of RR1403 (reference found on Rimmer' website), they don't need to be new :

 

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RR1403.

 

 

Who can help ?

Hi Chris

I fitted the racetorations ones no issues at all happy with comfort as the shockers i have fitted are adjustable(waiting for the incoming re my self adjustment issue in the isle of white a few years ago........Oh how they laughed )

IMG_0929_zpsbsgapjyv.jpg

no need to drill into the body work they bolt into the existing holes the leaver arms fit into.some people even fit unlock nuts onto the end of the bolt that protrudes through the chassis just as an extra precaution ;)

hope this helps

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Chris,

 

If you cannot find the correct length shocks for your setup, standard TR6 ones "topped out" on my setup, Gaz make them to length. In my case took them less than ten days to delivery and cheaper than standard length dealer supplied ones. (1" longer)

 

Just a happy customer.

 

Alan

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Be careful with shocks which could bottom out, this puts all the force on the end of the SA and could break it if a heavy landing after an unexpected hump back bridge is encountered. The original bump stops need to be functioning.

The two point brackets as shown are fine with an as new chassis but put all the strain on the diff bridge, Make sure it's still strong and has had the recommended reinforcing done. The 3 point brackets are much stronger as they spread the load onto the main chassis via the lower bump stop mounting and actually strengthen the diff bridge.

Chris

Edited by potts4a
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@ Chris, you're absolutly right, that's why I need to find steel brackets : I always weld, in situe, another strong piece of metal to connect the bracket to the bump stop mounting on the chassis.

 

Once done, the result is 3 points brackets, adjusted to the body/chassis position (some bodies are not perfectly aligned to their chassis !), and far less intrusive in the wheel arch than the square ones available here and there.

 

@ Alan , very interesting point, I'll contact them about another project I'm working on.

 

@ Clarkey, thanks for sharing your experience, i'm sure it will be usefull.

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