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Choke Cable Route and P Clip


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#1 Jim Allen

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 09:27 AM

Fitting the carburettors this afternoon. The choke cable seems to be about 2 inches too long. Does this mean I've chosen a shorter route? Does anyone have a photo or a description of the route from the dash board to the grommet through the bulkhead. Also along my route I can't see how how the "P" clip as per the Moss catalogue can attach it to the bulkhead.

Any advice before I shorten the cable would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Jim

 


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#2 mjdearing

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 09:41 AM

Hi Jim i would'nt be too hung up about position or route just get the little blitter to work, i have to put two feet on dash and pull on it with grips,iv tried all sorts but decided its the carb levers design at fault. All the best.


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#3 Fireman049

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 11:35 AM

Hi Jim ~

 

Here is a photo of the choke cable run on my 3A. I am able to operate the choke easily with 

my left hand.

 

Tip ~ Connect the cable to the carburettor trunnion pin and lock the cable in position then

remove the cable and trunnion from the operating arm and rotate the trunnion two or three

right hand turns and reconnect to the arm.

 

This will make the choke knob spring into the locked position on the dashboard.

 

Tom.

Attached File  DSCF1851 - Copy.JPG   107.78KB   3 downloads

 

 


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#4 Lebro

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 11:48 AM

+1  Good tip Tom, I do this also. If you don't then the knob will always work it's way back in.

It is also worth checking that the spring clip, & the thin brass "pawl" are present , & working properly.

It may be worth filing the ratchet teeth to make them more positive.

 

Bob.


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#5 Fireman049

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 11:52 AM

Hi Bob ~

 

Yes, I filed the ratchet teeth and made up a new steel pawl. Always try and get a straight run

for the choke cable. When I first bought the car the choke mechanism was extremely heavy.

 

Tom.


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#6 Graham Harris

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 12:38 PM

TeriAnn's Triumph website has a detailed drawing of all the holes in the firewall so you can see what goes where.

 

Graham


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#7 TR 2100

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 12:54 PM

In the old days, a 'ha'penny' was all that was required

to get started.- wedged under the knob.

 

But since ha'pennies are hard to come by these days,

(and could cost a dollar these days) twisting the cable

a few turns works a treat.

 

AlanR


Edited by TR 2100, 17 February 2017 - 12:55 PM.

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#8 Hamish

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 03:43 PM

Nice rockers tom 😄
It wasn't me that stole your rocker cover.
And thanks for the choke tip
H
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#9 Jim Allen

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 11:51 PM

Thanks Tom et al,

Nice picture Tom. That is the way I have it coming through the bulkhead on the engine side. Nice and straight. I am wondering about the dash board side. I ran it in a straight line out through the grommet but just wondering if I'm missing something as I can't see where I could possibly use a "P" clip on the cable. Can anyone tell me where they have a clip?

Cheers

Jim


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#10 Fireman049

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 12:07 PM

Hi Jim ~

 

I don't have a 'P' clip fitted at all.

 

Tom.


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#11 Graham Harris

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 12:15 PM

It fits on one screw at the bulkhead end of the right hand dash support and heater mount bracket which is in line with the exit grommet to the engine bay.

 

Graham


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#12 Fireman049

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 01:51 PM

Another important point is the correct functioning of the choke control.

 

On the pull to the first notch on the control this should only open the butterflies sufficiently

to increase the fast running ~ it should not lower the jets.

 

The second notch setting should then lower the jets.

 

Tom.


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#13 Richardtr3a

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 08:16 PM

On my 3A I moved the choke cable to a new position on the dash board near the speedo. Now it does not have to bend around the heater and works much more smoothly. I have the Standard Triumph wooden clothes peg which will hold the choke  once fully pulled pulled out.

 

The original choke knob has been replaced with the spot lamp switch. It all looks OK.

 

Richard & H.


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#14 Jim Allen

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 09:39 PM

Thank you all for all the help
Jim
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#15 Dave Larnder

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 09:44 AM

Tom

How does it run with HS6´s?

 

Nice rollers too.

 

Dave


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13418843_10206949952402496_4826039296909


#16 Fireman049

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 09:49 AM

Don't forget that the cork sealing washers on the carburettor jets harden and shrink which also

makes the choke mechanism extremely heavy to work.

I replaced my cork washers with neoprene 'O' rings which made the choke much easier to work.

I soaked the 'O' rings in a mixture of oil and petrol for a few weeks to see if they deteriorated

but they withstood the test.

 

Tom.

Attached File  DSCF1807 - Copy.JPG   96.39KB   0 downloads


Edited by Fireman049, 19 February 2017 - 10:15 AM.

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#17 Fireman049

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 02:01 PM

Hi Dave ~

 

I'm sorry but I have no info. regarding HS6's but I know that the choke control is much lighter on them.

 

Tom.


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#18 Lebro

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 02:41 PM

This shows the routing if you have HS6's

 

Attached File  Engine bay right.JPG   168.2KB   4 downloads

 

Bob.


Edited by Lebro, 19 February 2017 - 02:43 PM.

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#19 Fireman049

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 02:42 PM

I should have mentioned that my 3A is fitted with a Clayton heater and this causes the choke cable to be at

a more tight angle around the heater but the choke operation is still very light.

 

Tom.


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#20 Dave Larnder

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 02:37 PM

This shows the routing if you have HS6's

 

attachicon.gifEngine bay right.JPG

 

Bob.

Bob

That´s what Ivé got and the operation is easy(ish)

Dave


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