Richard Young Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 (edited) Hi all, Just started to fit the new hubs and notice there is some play in one of them...dial guage says 10thou play!....Checked the other one and no play at all. Dissapointing really as these things are not cheap and would have thought they should be to spec. (2thou). Have contacted supplier and is happy to refund,although he did suppose that some might get fitted with wrong spec and owner not to know and they just get put on and forgot about. So question is do I fit these and assume there will be no issues or do I source somewhere else,the supplier has no more in stock to replace. I know I could adjust the hub with the play in it if I find a big enough spanner! but the one that is tight is not adjustable as presume the crush sleeve has crushed too far. In saying this I dont know why I should have to bugger about with them as they should be FFP from the start.Any suggestions please or perhaps another supplier that might supply me with the correct spec hubs. Has anyone had new Bastocks and found them to be at correct spec? Richard. Edited February 14, 2017 by Richard Young Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Not had Bastucks but I've some CDD Stag hubs and driveshafts, very nice closely controlled machining within limits. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Thanks for that Mick. R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 (edited) Spelling corrected 'Bastuck' Edited February 15, 2017 by Richard Young Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I Richard I apparently had the last pair of Bastuck hubs (at that time) from the TR Shop back in October, they are fitted now and within tolerance. I had Proptech fit their new uprated driveshafts to them and he actually mentioned how nicely made the hubs were. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I would send them back in a shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Have fitted a few without any problems. CDD hubs not so keen had a couple of premature failures, replaced no quibble but dont have the confidence now. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 (edited) These Goodparts rear hubs are excellent quality. Pricey, yes, but everybody that has them is pleased with them. http://goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 Edited February 14, 2017 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Had word with Moss. Say they do their own?(not too sure about that)....confirmed they use Timken and are to correct spec, so might go for them...bit cheaper than Bastucks. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I would send them back in a shot. Yes Neil...packing them up now...good call Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Fitted them and uprated driveshafts a couple of years ago all ok no issues I would send the unit back and get a replacement Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Does Goodparts have a store in U.K.... if not postage on such an item will be ridiculous.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Had word with Moss. Say they do their own?(not too sure about that)....confirmed they use Timken and are to correct spec, so might go for them...bit cheaper than Bastucks. Richard. Hi Richard, is that a new build or a renovation. You need new stub axles at the very least. Send your dodgy hubs back and see what they come up with. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I had 2 Bastuck from TR shop last year on offer, one was ok but the other not, but there is a red card in the box that says that they should be tested at 500 kms and readjusted if necessary to the workshop manual. I readjusted the loose one before fitting. Seems we should advise Bastuck to get them better set when new perhaps? At least the flange runs true with the brake drum now, the ones on before must have been reworked but not very well! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hi John, interesting. I'm sure the WSM states that the hubs are not adjustable. Once the crush tube is set, that is it. I know that some of our posters have tweaked the big nuts on the back (calm down now) but they are very naughty. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 I understand you can tighten them if there is too much play, it will crush the tube a bit more, but do not loosen them, then the crush tube will be floating about. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 (edited) Indeed,I was considering adjusting the loose one but tuther was tight..no play at all,in fact when spinning it there was quite a lot of resistance,so the tube would have been crushed and no way to 'un' crush it. Really frustrated with this,you would expect paying strong money for 'new' parts that you should just fit and forget.These hubs were not just slightly off,they were a country mile off. Its not good enough in my view. Had same issues with 'new' standard front shockers as Roger well knows.Then, (didnt post this) I sent set 6 Uj's back (bought from one of the usual suspects) because they were sub standard with even some rollers shorter than others and a b*****d to fit. I changed them for GKNs and they were perfect..I changed all the Uj's in no time. Hey Ho. Edited February 15, 2017 by Richard Young Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Have sent them back to supplier and have decided to get 2 'new' ones from Moss. Should be here today...will update once I've checked them. Thanks all, for your helpful comments and sound advice. Hopefully not too long now before we have a completed rolling chassis...now that is exciting! Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 In the mean time I'm very reluctant to buy via mailorder, Richard imagine you would have purchased this items in the U.S. with the same problems.... I recently bought CV driveshafts and hubs for my 6 from CDD, after having spoken to them at the IWE. I was impressed by the quality, but up to now I have not yet fitted them due to my health problems, Following Stuart's post I hopefully did not make a mistake. Quality control by most suppliers is a big issue and in so far you have a considerable advantage when you can by over the counter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Years ago having seen the Special Churchill Tools in operation for dismantling and assembly for these hubs units in my local BL Garage. I have always had my doubts that these hubs cannot be assembled without those type of tools, there were 4 or more components to this tool . For a start off the work bench has to be steel and raw-bolted to the concrete floor and the vice, it's big!!! to grip/support the base unit of the tool. When setting up the end float you cannot have any movement in the rest of the unit! It would be interesting to know how the current suppliers do it???? Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) Funnily enough I have just been chatting to Moss tech department about their new hubs and they are built new from scratch with decent bearings so I too will probably go over to fitting theirs, however we have fitted several Bastuck ones and none have shown any problems. As to dismantling old ones, I do have the Churchill tools for it but I wouldnt bother as the cost of crack testing the shafts properly makes it uneconomic. We just use the main puller to remove Girling axle hubs. Stuart. Edited February 15, 2017 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) More importantly Bruce the idea of reworking the hub components was designed for the "current" models of that time ie TRs that had gone on the road maybe 2 or 3 years since being sold new. If you had informed the designers that 50+ years later their same products would be on the roads they would have thought you mad. First there's the near unknown accident (or two, or three) that the vehicles had over the 50 years when the driver put it into a kerb, or the unknown 10 years when it had a weekend career as a sports race car wearing oversize tyres and wheels and exposed to an enormous increase in cornering forces, and then you decide to rebuild the rear hubs and even by using the correct tooling are you really surprised that the hub or stub axles develops hairline unseen cracks that one day "let go" and put you into a ditch ? Or even worse you get the local engineering firm to put the hub in their 20 ton press and everyone flinches with the enormous "bang" and you rebuild the resulting components with the hairlines unseen, and even if crack tested the hairlines are often where you can't see. This is a Stag hub (same components but less stresses, their drivers are nambys compared to TR drivers), get the idea as regards unseen hairlines ? FWIK this was one of a pair of "reconditioned" units, the other failed also within the next 12 months. Fit new upgraded hubs whatever driveshafts you bolt to them. Mick Richards Edited February 15, 2017 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Interesting that that one split where it did as most failures seem to break the stub shaft. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Hi Folks, both Stuart and Micky comment on crack testing the various parts of the hub. 'Crack testing' is easy. Let me explain. It is easy if you have the correct equipment and are seriously trained in the dark art of NDT. Thankfully the hubs are made of steel so Magnetic Particle testing is ideal. Fluorescent MPI is idealer. Very small cracks can be detected. Hairline cracks are big in comparison with what can be picked up with the FMPI. However the problem is greater than detecting cracks. Before steel cracks it has to be stressed. This stressing disrupts the grain etc and for all intents and purposes it is cracked but without having a crack. This stressing under normal NDT conditions can not be detected. The stub axle is made from some very strong fancy steel. It does not tolerate cracks. Once a crack starts it will break very rapidly. Thus making inspection useless. Replace with new every time. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted February 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Interesting Roger. Also as Stuart stated,I spoke to Moss before I ordered and they confirmed they are made from scratch with Timken or NTN.I am waiting delivery today...I will initially check them and update here. Incidently they have chunky discount offer at the moment.Worked out to £120 cheaper than the Bastucks. R. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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