MikeyB1 Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Hello folks, by the end of this coming weekend I hope to have purchased a TR3. I drove the one that is, at present, top of my list but there a 2 niggles that I would like to resolve before I make an offer. Firstly, it has been converted to Rack and Pinion, which I thought was a vast improvement over the original box, but the original wheel has been retained. With the steering effort now reduced, I felt that the steering was almost over sensitive and would be improved with a smaller, say 14", steering wheel. However, I would like to retain the original indicator switch/horn push. Is this possible? Is there a specific woodrim wheel that lends itself to this mod? Secondly, although the car started and ran well, I felt, rather than heard, a low frequency vibration when I blipped the throttle in neutral, almost as if something was out of balance. It was still there whilst accelerating. Any suggestions? Carbs out of balance is all I can think of at the moment. Any comments gratefully received. Bye for now, Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) Hi Mike ~ MotoLita do steering wheel bosses which accept the TR original set-up. Regarding the low frequency vibration. Could this be Big end/Main bearing wear? Tom. Edited February 9, 2017 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Exhaust in contact with the body or chassis perhaps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeyB1 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Thanks for the info re Moto Lita Tom. I hope it's not big end rumble because oil pressure was 50psi at tickover, almost 70 at speed. Pete, thanks, that was what I wondered (or a lack of correct mounting rubbers perhaps) although I would have expected some metal to metal sounds as well, which I didn't hear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Those kinds of vibrations can be cause be all sorts of things, rear axle, brake shoes, clutch, propshaft? You mention rack and pinion, but the center Horn and signal is still intact? Most r&p conversions loose those functions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 When I converted my 3A to R & P steering I fitted a Mini Cooper Mk.2 horn/indicator/headlamp/flasher switch to the steering column and made it self cancelling. I retained the original horn control in the steering wheel. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeyB1 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Perhaps I didn't explain myself clearly enough Edwin. I could feel the vibration in neutral and at rest, it didn't feel any different once on the move, so I've discounted the drive train. Re the horn/indicator assembly.......on the intended purchase neither the horn push or the indicator swith are in use, it's just that I would like to re-instate them if possible. Sorry about that. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeyB1 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Nice work Tom, I like that. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Hi Mike ~ If you'd like photo's showing the conversion then please PM me your eMail address. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 With Rack & pinion steering it is not straightforward to have the original horn & indicator functions. Bastuk do a kit using slip rings which will give you the electrical connections required, but as far as I know there is no way to get the self cancelling of the indicators to work. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Hi Mike, welcome to the forum. Regarding the low frequency rumble - it could be the exhaust but not necessarily a contact vibration - simply the deep down tone. My 4A, when going through a decent tunnel sounds something akin to a spitfire complete with Merlin engine Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Bob ~ You're quite right. You can't get the original indicator self cancelling to work as the whole control head rotates with the steering wheel when you fit an R & P assembly. I removed the original indicator switch when I installed the Mini Cooper switch assembly. This is how I made the new system 'self cancelling'. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 I fitted the Bastuck slip rings. Works well but you do lose the self cancelling. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 If it has a 4 branch exhaust some of them do contact the chassis at the front also with a standard exhaust the mount by the back of the gear box in its original form can vibrate if not fitted correctly, this will be felt all the time regardless of RPM or road speed. If the rear gearbox mount has disintegrated due to oil contamination (usually) then it will allow the box to drop far enough to contact the cross plate which will also cause vibration. No you cannot keep the self cancel if your using the original horn push no matter how you fit it with an R&P conversion. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Hi Mike, I have the Moss R&P Fitted to mine. I do run the stock indicator/horn push on a Mota Lita Wheel however, it is just for looks and not functional. What I decided to do for simplicity was to install a self cancelling turn signal vacuum switch from the MGA in the dash along with a push button for the horn. Works fine for me although it would be more convenient to have them on the wheel as originally designed.... Some video here....I think you can see the wheel/dash pretty well around the 2 minute mark if you want to skip through. https://youtu.be/S1j69qKFASs Cheers Tush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Hi Mike Welcome to the forum. I've no idea of your TR experience but could the vibration be "normal" for a four cylinder TR? I gave a six cylinder man a lift recently and he noticed a lot of " normal" vibration. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeyB1 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply to my query, but I have to apologise to you all as it turns out that I have wasted your time. After a lot of discussion with my dear wife (always the one with the sensible approach to matters) and several sleepless nights, I have decided not to go ahead with buying a sidescreen TR. I have however, placed a deposit on a TR4, which I believe will suit our needs better, and all things being well, will collect it next Saturday. Once again, thanks for the advice, and sorry for wasting your time. Cheers for now, Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Hi Mike, sensible choice - welcome to modern motoring - wind up windows, nice. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 14, 2017 Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Bahh Humbug (etc) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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