New rear wings?

[Steves_TR6]

The rear wings on my TR6 have some rust bubbling up at their forward edges.

 

My local paint guy, highly recommended by friends, has had 2 goes at repairing them but each time the rust bubbles up again within a year.

 

So i'm thinking of investing in two new rear wings.

 

Have read that new replacement panels arent the best quality/fit, so where's the best place to buy quality rear wings for a 6?

 

Steve

[RogerH]

Hi Steve,

the front edge of the wing has a folded edge. If rust is in there then simply cleaning the outside and repainting will not work for long.

You could peel back the fold, clean out and put back together.

 

There is also the internal rib that holds the wing to the 'B' post. This has a flange that is spot welded to the wing skin.

Again, if it has rust under it then it needs to be removed, the rust cleaned away, and then refitting.

 

This rib is easier to do than the front folded edge.

 

Unless you want to get deeply involved with the rust etc I would suggest a very good second hand item, from a dry country, or a new Bastuk wing (I understand they are OK)

 

Roger

[stuart]

As Roger says the only way to repair them properly is to open the fold up and remove the return that bolts to the back of the "B" post.Then repair the front section properly. I have done this several times including on the wing I have fitted to my 4a from the accident damage. My original wing had had the same treatment and had lasted 22 yrs without rust coming out again.The repro heritage rear wings need leading down the front edge as they dont have the correct angle to them. They are tight at the bottom to the door and a large gap at the top.But they are the correct gauge.

Stuart.

[Steves_TR6]

Thanks Roger and Stuart.

 

So my wings should be repairable, if approached properly.

 

Stuart, do you mean 'leading down the front edge' or did you kean loading as in lead loading??

 

Steve

[ed_h]

You need a better "local paint guy" who would at least give you the option of a proper repair.

 

As has been detailed, this area has internal construction that has to be made right before the outer skin can be finished.

 

Ed

[Guest ntc]

Thanks Roger and Stuart.

 

So my wings should be repairable, if approached properly.

 

Stuart, do you mean 'leading down the front edge' or did you kean loading as in lead loading??

 

Steve

I would pm David Ferry.

[stuart]

Thanks Roger and Stuart.

 

So my wings should be repairable, if approached properly.

 

Stuart, do you mean 'leading down the front edge' or did you kean loading as in lead loading??

 

Steve

Yes they often do need lead loading down the front edge to get a good line to the door.

Stuart.

[Mark69]

A little advice needed , I find myself in the same position .

I have had all external panels treated at envirostrip, all panels are better than I expected.

The driver's front as a section of surface rust which is showing through the etch primer along the back edge nearest the door.

The area affected is very solid with no perforations, would it be a good idea to remove the fixing bracket from the rear and treat the folded lip.

Or should I cut out and replace.

Mark

Edited April 14, 2020 by Mark69

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

I'm sure more expert info will be along shortly but if it was mine I would consider unfolding the edge and or removing any area that is giving a double skin.

These stripping processes are very good on exposed areas but can't get to the double skins.

 

I'm having fun with the 4A doors. The front edge to the carcass is all double skin (plus lots of rust).

 

Roger

[SeanF]

Hi Mark,

 

I agree with Roger. It looks like the rust is coming through from the fold at the back of the wing where the edge is folded over the flange piece. If you shine a torch into the gap from the back side can you see rust? I think I am facing this issue with at least one of my wings. Looks fine from the front - I haven't removed the old paint yet - but I can see heavy rust when looking in from the back side.

 

Best,

 

Sean

[RogerH]

Hi Folks,

I fitted a repair section to my 4A FNS wing sill area in January last year.

I found the panel too long by a good 1/2". Decision time - do I cut 1/2" off the front (very complex shape) or off the back (not complex) with a folded edge.

 

I cut it off the back but now had no material to fold back over. I soldered a strip of metal down the edge to mimic the fold.

This also had the advantage that the gap under the fold was now filled with solder.

The new soldered strip strengthens the curve (around the sill) and the solder keeps the rust at bay.

 

Roger

[Butty]

I also have to replace the internal rib on the front of rear wing , is there a easy way (tool) to open the fold and preserve the original wing panel from damage ?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

[stuart]

I also have to replace the internal rib on the front of rear wing , is there a easy way (tool) to open the fold and preserve the original wing panel from damage ?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

There is no real easy way, you will need to identify the brazed points and carefully grind them out and then find the spot welds and drill them out from the rear, you will then be able to release the flange from the skin. I have just had to do this on the replacement rear wing that I had to repair the damage on my 4a. Front wing return is the same. A screwdriver with the last couple of inches bent at right angles will help to just tease the return flange up a bit to clean out right inside.

When you refit the return sections be they front or rear then make sure you seam seal them off properly so no water etc can get back in.

Stuart.

[stuart]

Hi Folks,

I fitted a repair section to my 4A FNS wing sill area in January last year.

I found the panel too long by a good 1/2". Decision time - do I cut 1/2" off the front (very complex shape) or off the back (not complex) with a folded edge.

 

I cut it off the back but now had no material to fold back over. I soldered a strip of metal down the edge to mimic the fold.

This also had the advantage that the gap under the fold was now filled with solder.

The new soldered strip strengthens the curve (around the sill) and the solder keeps the rust at bay.

 

Roger

Solder wont keep rust at bay, stopping water and air getting to steel will stop rust.

Stuart.

[stuart]

Hi Mark,

I'm sure more expert info will be along shortly but if it was mine I would consider unfolding the edge and or removing any area that is giving a double skin.

These stripping processes are very good on exposed areas but can't get to the double skins.

 

I'm having fun with the 4A doors. The front edge to the carcass is all double skin (plus lots of rust).

 

Roger

Roger I have a reasonable l/hand door if you want.

Stuart.

[Mark69]

Ok , so its flange off clean and repair if needed.

Whats the best way to treat after flange is replaced?

Mark

[stuart]

Ok , so its flange off clean and repair if needed.

Whats the best way to treat after flange is replaced?

Mark

Like I said earlier seam seal all down the return of the wing and behind the flange where it meets the wing and then stone chip inside the wing then prime and top coat.Refit and waxoyl.

I have just removed the wings from one side of mine to repair accident damage and they were treated like that when I built the car in 94 and they were as good as when originally assembled back then.

Stuart.

[RogerH]

Roger I have a reasonable l/hand door if you want.

Stuart.

 

Hi Stuart,

I shouldn't need a replacement door for many moons now.

Last year when I took the NS door off I found many cracks where the hinge attaches to the main chassis forward edge of the door.

I notice quite a lot of swelling. When I poked further I found buckets of crud between the double skins.

I cut the outer skin back as far as possible and cleaned out the rust/crud and welded in new metal. It is all nice and functional.

Earlier this month I did the same to the OS door.

 

Hopefully that should slow things down for a long time.

 

Roger

 

PS - new doors as well as windscreen frames to forward to SDF.

[Mark69]

Cheers folks

[RogerH]

Solder wont keep rust at bay, stopping water and air getting to steel will stop rust.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart,

you are absolutely correct. If the area away fromt he solder starts to rust it will then creep through the steel and under the solder = disaster.

 

As you state the folded edge must sealed correctly.

 

Roger

[Butty]

Many thanks

[Mark69]

Umm nice

[stuart]

Umm nice14878717186881537580354.jpg

Thats actually pretty good really and will clean up nice.

Stuart.

[Mark69]

Spent half an hour cleaning with a wire brush coming up quite well.

Thanks Stuart, would it be a good idea to use a weld thru primer then coat with bonda primer once the flange is refixed.

Mark

Edited April 14, 2020 by Mark69

[stuart]

If your going to spot weld it back then yes use some weld thru primer on the area your welding and Bonda prime the rest. I mask the welding area off then Bonda prime all of it then remove the masking and apply weld thru to the masked area. Same way as you would treat the inside of a sill before fitting.

Stuart.