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Hi Torque Starter Motor


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Hi Tony,

 

I have had a WOSP hi-torque starter on my TR4A for around 10 years. It has never faltered and has done something around 50,000 miles sometimes in extremely high temps and also some very wet conditions.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Following a succession of Lucas alternator failures, I have used a Denso alternator since the same time with no problems.

 

post-197-0-06758500-1485808839_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

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I fitted a Hi Torque started last year and it does throw the engine over at a great rate of knots but I have to say its taken some time to get used to the sound of it.

you seem to go from a lazy ol chugger to an F1 pit-lane sound!

On the matter of inspection holes. I have made a few mods on mine for access and here's my grandmother/egg/suck moment

 

Mark where you want to gain access. you can drill a few holes so you can see in with a torch to make sure your in the right place.

when happy mark your cut line with a marker pen.

drill a hole in each corner of your cut line.(so you can feel/see the indention when its covered in foil)

cover the whole are with baking (tin) foil, spray glue is good for this

cut a couple of over sized pieces of fiberglass mat (around an inch larger than you intend to cut your access hole)

mix up your resin and stipple the area and then lay your first piece of mat on.

then more resin and another layer

allow to fully cure.

when cured this new patch will "pop off" from the tin foil. this is now a perfect copy contour wise to the area around your proposed access hole.

now you cut your access hole, jigsaws best. (If you're doing this in situ then you can always shorten the jigsaw blade so you don't hit what's behind)

place your new patch over, draw a new outer shape and cut with the jigsaw.

place back over the aperture and drill holes for self tapper fixings

I then usually use some 1-2mm neoprene as a seal around the edge and the sound proofing helps to locate it as well.

 

This way allows you to make a perfectly shaped copy of the area and gives you a better chance of getting a gas tight seal.

 

I have access plates for drain plug, solenoid, starter bolts etc

 

hope that's helpful folks

 

 

 

post-1366-0-10140500-1485814418_thumb.jpg

post-1366-0-94340300-1485814434_thumb.jpg

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Hello Graeme

Which model of denso aternator did you fit?

 

One like this

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332108148633?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

Roger

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Hello Graeme

Which model of denso aternator did you fit?

 

One like this

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332108148633?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

Roger

 

Roger,

 

That unit is the one I have bought for my TR250. Sure it would fit the 4 OK, but the one in my pic above has the main terminal on the opposite side.

 

Cheers

Graeme

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Hi Tony,

don;t be afraid to put access holes in the tunnel, it may save a great deal of work for you.

 

The speedo angle drive is a devil to remove/fit with the tunnel in place. (right rear)

Access to the OD solenoid for replacement/adjustment. (left rear)

Access to the OD alignment jigging holes (right forward)

Oil filler hole (left forward)

 

Also consider splitting the tunnel at the rear (the rear most 8" or so) to give access tot he propshaft front UJ and allowing easier removal of the tunnel.

 

Roger

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Slight deviation. I don't know if all Denso alternators are the same but my 60A one's wiring isn't the same as the Lucas ACR. It needs an ignition switched feed to energise the field rather than relying on current through the warning light. So an extra wire is required.

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UPDATE

 

Well, for better or for worse, I have just gone ahead and ordered a WOSP LMS006.

 

I do of course very much wish that I had cut all these various access holes in my transmission tunnel when I had it off soon after I bought the car, 4 or 5 years ago. It looks tricky to cut these holes neatly and make nice covers without removing the transmission tunnel again.

 

I'll report back as to how I get on.

 

Thank you all for the quality and speed of your replies.

Tony

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Hi Tony,

 

I have had a WOSP hi-torque starter on my TR4A for around 10 years. It has never faltered and has done something around 50,000 miles sometimes in extremely high temps and also some very wet conditions.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Following a succession of Lucas alternator failures, I have used a Denso alternator since the same time with no problems.

 

TR Engine Rebuild-21a-1024.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

Hi Graeme, what is the model of alternator you used? I'm looking to convert to an alternator again.

Replaced the dynomo last year for one that looks like a dynomo, but after send the second one back faulty got peed off and put the dynomo back on and was looking at fitting a lefthand lucas unit, but the Denso unit might be an alternative.

 

Mark

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Hi Graeme, what is the model of alternator you used? I'm looking to convert to an alternator again.

Replaced the dynomo last year for one that looks like a dynomo, but after send the second one back faulty got peed off and put the dynomo back on and was looking at fitting a lefthand lucas unit, but the Denso unit might be an alternative.

 

Mark

Hello Mark,

I'd be pleased to know the make of the troublesome dynamo-look-alike alternators, please, as I have a friend who is considering putting one on an old Jag. (By PM would be fine if you don't want to "go public"...)

Many thanks

Tony

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Hi Graeme, what is the model of alternator you used? I'm looking to convert to an alternator again.

Replaced the dynomo last year for one that looks like a dynomo, but after send the second one back faulty got peed off and put the dynomo back on and was looking at fitting a lefthand lucas unit, but the Denso unit might be an alternative.

 

Mark

This is one we recently bought and fitted to a TR3 using a wide belt pulley. Some lathe work was needed and adjustment of the mounting pedestal.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAIHATSU-PIAGGIO-ALTERNATOR-GENERATOR-40A-12V-REGULATOR-V-RIBBED-BELT-31928480/381642567511?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3D9088d60f92fd4a7dadc75e002a82f919%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D332108148633

 

Peter W

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Hello Mark,

I'd be pleased to know the make of the troublesome dynamo-look-alike alternators, please, as I have a friend who is considering putting one on an old Jag. (By PM would be fine if you don't want to "go public"...)

Many thanks

Tony

Hi pm sent.

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I wouldn't use a dynamo lookalike. The cooling is compromised and they can fry the rectifier/regulator pack. I've got one that I repaired and I wouldn't give it away.

Hi Pete that sounds exactly like the issues I had with both units.

 

Mark

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My friend with the "old Jag" has, in fact, an excellent ("Proteus") C-Type replica, which came to him with an alternator on it. Just about everything else looks spot on "1953" so the alternator stands out like a sore thumb - hence my interest in these lookalikes.



Thanks again


Tony


Edited by tonycharente
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UPDATE

 

Well, for better or for worse, I have just gone ahead and ordered a WOSP LMS006.

 

I do of course very much wish that I had cut all these various access holes in my transmission tunnel when I had it off soon after I bought the car, 4 or 5 years ago. It looks tricky to cut these holes neatly and make nice covers without removing the transmission tunnel again.

 

I'll report back as to how I get on.

 

Thank you all for the quality and speed of your replies.

Tony

REPORTING BACK

I went ahead and bought a High Torque starter motor with every intention of removing its fixed bolt.
Today (already - only ordered on 31/01/2017!) this starter motor arrived and it became clear to me that removing that bolt could only be done by removing the faceplate and then (hopefully) knocking it out before putting it all back together. The ends of the two screws holding on the faceplate were marked with paint by the manufacturer. As it came with a three year guarantee I decided that potentially voiding the guarantee would not be wise if it could be avoided.
Encouraged by yourselves, and particulary by Roger who had managed it in the middle of a field, I took the plunge and cut a round access hole in the transmission tunnel. Thankfully this went swimmingly, so I have been able to fit the new starter "as is" quite easily.
And it works!
Shortly I will try to post a photo-report on my earlier ("Starter Motor Remove and Refit") topic as I think this the more appropiate topic, being not necessarily related to High Torque versions.
Thanking you all once again,
Tony
Edited by tonycharente
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Hi Tony,

well done. The rubber bung in the floor panel is a nice size to fill your new access hole

Item #101 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/body-chassis/body-panels/rear-body-floor-panels-tr6.html

 

Roger

Thanks Roger,

I already happened to have an appropriate bung - to suit a 3.5 inch round hole, so I cut the hole to suit that bung...

Tony

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Have always used WOSP for alternators as well as starters and Luke a pleasure to deal with.

 

Have modified to suit different flywheels at no extra cost and repaired a non charger also for free.

 

very satisfied customer

 

ROY

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  • 5 months later...

I've just fitted my rebuilt engine and need a hi torque sm as it's all so tight.

 

It's been mentioned about ring gear type....how do I tell if it's push on or bolt on? I wasn't aware of 2 types and when the engine was out I was mainly concerned about condition not how it fitted on.

 

Can I tell when it's in the car or from photos I may have taken? Or doesn't it matter?

 

I'll probably go for the TR shop unit.

 

Thanks

 

Colt

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A TR4 should be bolt on, but -

Have you got the old starter motor ? count the teeth on it.

9 = shrink on (early) & 10 = bolt on. Also you should be able to see / feel the bolts through the starter motor mounting hole if the latter.

The new geared motor just needs to have the same no. of teeth as original.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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