Tony Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) hi All, A few photos of my engine bay, not quite standard, still work in progress, but starting to come together, tony Edited December 8, 2020 by Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Tony that looks awesome ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) Nice work. Any clearance problems with the steering column? And have you reduced the compression ratio? Edited January 20, 2017 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Tony, Excellent- that's going to pull like a train ! Neat, and correct, cold air intake, but I would put a filter on the end as the rotor clearances are tight. Hope you will write up the spec and your experiences for TRA ! Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Compression is 8.3 to 1 and the steering column is well clear of the s/charger. If you look carefully you will see it has a pedal box from a TR6 and i used 2 of the column universals joints instead of the rubber joint. In the top left hand corner of the photo you can just make out the water injection jet in the center of the alloy bend, so it will be spraying strait into the SU tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Tony, Excellent- that's going to pull like a train ! Neat, and correct, cold air intake, but I would put a filter on the end as the rotor clearances are tight. Hope you will write up the spec and your experiences for TRA ! Peter hi Peter, The filter is in the carbon fiber air box where the battery used to be. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Excellent. How did you drop the CR? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 hi Peter, The filter is in the carbon fiber air box where the battery used to be. Hi Tony, Very tidy. Who makes it?- will it flow enough air without restriction? I'm interested as its a fraction the size of my K&N. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 hi Pete, 7cc dished forged pistons, 87mm diameter, and 1.5 mm solid copper head gasket, together with the largest exhaust valve that would fit! Peter, the airbox was on ebay ( there were quite a number of suppliers,) i think mine came from a company called Ash and the filter is the same as a K&N. The filter is fixed in the box but the box comes apart and the filter can be washed /cleaned. The filter/ pipe work are 76mm diameter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Tony, 8.3:1 and water injection: they should keep detonation at bay on 97RON. You have fitted the 10psi boost pulley ? That'll give, after allowing for heat, about 35% torque gain. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Love it - Hope to see it in the flesh one day:-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 WANT ONE (waiting for the specs) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Looks superb. What have you done to the bottom end and con rods? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 hi Mark The crank and rods were still on the original size but were reground 10 under for to be sure they were all uniform. the rods had been lightened and balanced by a previous owner, so they were checked end to end and all were good and equally within a gram in weight. the whole bottom end was balanced including the clutch ( TR6 diaphragm and AP Racing plate) and a light weight flywheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 WANT ONE (waiting for the specs) Hi Mike Apart from the blower engine, the 4 has a 5 speed T9 gearbox with a higher 1st gear, close 2 3 4and a higher 5gear, slightly higher than an overdrive top, and is rated to 240 BHP The rear has a LSD on a 3.7 diff, the springs are up rated fast road and also has anti-tramp bars. Oh, and twin pot disc brakes!! regards tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hi Tony, Very tidy. Who makes it?- will it flow enough air without restriction? I'm interested as its a fraction the size of my K&N. Peter hi Peter, check this link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Filter-Box-Carbon-Fiber-Cold-Feed-Induction-Kit-3inch-Air-Intake-Set/322337962476?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40760%26meid%3D01de7946fe1e4c46b0582ffa860fe27e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D182397569237 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Tony Thanks for sharing, the gear box can take 240bhp, have you had a chance to put it on a rolling road yet, any idea on power / torque Peter thinks 35% gain in torque and a fast road engine is 140-160'ish + + S/C (nice) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 hi Peter, check this link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Filter-Box-Carbon-Fiber-Cold-Feed-Induction-Kit-3inch-Air-Intake-Set/322337962476?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40760%26meid%3D01de7946fe1e4c46b0582ffa860fe27e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D182397569237 Thanks Tony. I think I would find the flow capacity of the filter as its not physically large. Pulling air for 150+hp through it might lead to more depression at the SU intake than normal. That will be safe: it will lift the piston in the SU and richen the mixture. But if it starts to bog at the top end it might be going over-rich. 150hp needs air flow of around 104cfm. https://www.gregraven.org/hotwater/calculators/airflow-hp.php I have yet to find a air flow capacity for K&N material 'per square inch'. An acceptable pressure loss across the filter would be,say, no more than 10% of the SU piston downforce pressure. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 simply this! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 hi Mark The crank and rods were still on the original size but were reground 10 under for to be sure they were all uniform. the rods had been lightened and balanced by a previous owner, so they were checked end to end and all were good and equally within a gram in weight. the whole bottom end was balanced including the clutch ( TR6 diaphragm and AP Racing plate) and a light weight flywheel. So standard crank then Tony and not billet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 So standard crank then Tony and not billet? That's right , standard crank, should be OK, it wont be revved much above 4500. If it does fail i would change it to a billet. The bottom end is all most the same as my 3a engine except that was on 89mm pistons, high lift cam, big valve head, and regularly saw 6000 RPM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Tony Thanks for sharing, the gear box can take 240bhp, have you had a chance to put it on a rolling road yet, any idea on power / torque Peter thinks 35% gain in torque and a fast road engine is 140-160'ish + + S/C (nice) Hi Mike, the rest of the car is still in bits, only came back from the paint shop in December, i hope to have it on the road in April, the last time it was on the road was 21 years ago!! regards tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) That's right , standard crank, should be OK, it wont be revved much above 4500. @everyone. Thats the beauty of supercharging - no need for rpm. The extra power comes from increased compressive load on the rods. In contrast increasing power with higher rpm put much more stretch into the rods, and they need to be changed. All the s/c books say that a standard spec engine in good nick is all that is needed even for substantial power increases**. The main consideration is avoiding detonation, so the main modification is to drop the compression ratio ( but water injection can even avoid that ! ). The standard cam is also fine, indeed high overlap cams simply dump boost down the exhaust. Supercharging is the ultimate bolt-on power winner. But supercharging has, for decades, been penalised by racing regs so expertise has withered. Tony's TR4S/c will drive smoothly on the road, trickle along when needed, and pull a gear taller easily, needing fewer gear changes, yet still deliver 35% more beans when driven pedal to the floor under 10psi boost. Peter I've posted this before, my IWE talk from 2015, 'Supercharging TRs for the road' https://supertrarged.files.wordpress.com/2015/08/supercharging-trs-for-the-road-iwe-shorter-for-wordpress.ppt ** see slide from talk: http://prntscr.com/dyin0h Edited January 21, 2017 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Tony that looks so beautiful and if it looks right it usually is. I considered going down the supercharge route then went EFI, perhaps I should build another TR and supercharge it. I have no regrets on EFI though. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Tony that looks so beautiful and if it looks right it usually is. I considered going down the supercharge route then went EFI, perhaps I should build another TR and supercharge it. I have no regrets on EFI though. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Hi Harry thanks for the comments, i agree with you about the benefits of EFI, i also had a 5 with the Webber Alpha ECU, which could only be mapped by a Webber agent, so I changed it to Dave Walker's Emerald K3 ECU, and had fun playing with the mapping!! regards tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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