mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hi, Ive just started on the engine part of the restoration of my 66 4A (engine no CT64299E) and I would like to know what size pistons and liners to put in to make it as it left the factory. Also can I reuse the Main and Big end journal bolts as they had no locking tabs and I wonder if they may be stretch bolts. Thanks, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 TR4 and TR4A would have 86mm liners & pistons as standard (giving 2138 cc), but 83mm (giving 1991 cc) were available as an option in order to qualify for 2-litre class in competition. If you want to know how it left the factory, you need a Heritage certificate - available from Gaydon (see Traces on page 4 of TR Action). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hi Mark, the standard liners were 86mm. These can be upgraded to 87mm with no problems and a bit more oomph. The big-end bolts would be the 'supposedly' stretch bolts and do not require locking tabs. I say supposedly !! all bolts will stretch when you tighten them up. They should go back to their original shape when undone. The big-end bolts apparently can't be used again thus indicating that they do not return to their original shape. I have reused mine for a number of rebuilds with no problems. It is your choice what you do with them. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Thanks, I was thinking of reusing them as they look chunky enough for the job. It would be useful to know if this is common practice. Also are the long head studs usually ok as if one of those broke at the bottom I dont know how you would get it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Thanks, I was thinking of reusing them as they look chunky enough for the job. It would be useful to know if this is common practice. Also are the long head studs usually ok as if one of those broke at the bottom I dont know how you would get it out. Drill it and retap with a Helicoil, we've been there done that. If you use the search facility you'll find threads on it. You're unlikely to break a stud, the originals are good quality and tough, you can find an occasional block where because of a 50 year timeframe and water ingress for whatever reason down the stud it's happy to remain with the block rather than coming out ! Worry about that if and when it happens. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 All the head studs came out fine and look in relatively good shape so fingers crossed. I think I may use the Main and Big end bolts again too. Feeling a bit tight after working out what its all coming to with the unleaded convertion on top as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Roger, when you reused the main and big end bolts did you torque to the same amount as with new bolts ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hi Mark, the BE & MB bolts must be torqued to the correct value - whether they are new or re-used if that is your choose. For the head studs, ensure they are clean and free from burrs, nicks sharp edges etc. Remove any fluid from the bottom of the stud holes. Ensure that the seats for the Figure of 8 seals sits are clean and corrosion free. The liners must sit perfectly on them. The liners MUST sit as per the dimensions in the WSM - and as near as uniform as possible. This is a time consuming part of any rebuild. Good luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 What are the torques for the BE & MB ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 If you are starting on a restoration Mark you really need to buy a workshop manual, and torque wrenches etc etc. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Yes, I have those but wasn't able to find the torque settings easily in the Haynes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Hi Mark, they may be at the front somewhere. However I would seriously recommend getting the correct WSM - the TRR shop has them Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4763 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Thanks, will do. The haynes only seems to address the standard bolt type as far as i can see and not the stretch bolts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 The Haynes book is a helpful guide to maintenance, and at times a useful adjunct to the factory publications for diy enthusiasts, but it is not sufficient in itself to undertake major work. The proper factory workshop manual is a must, and the factory parts catalogue can be an invaluable supplement . . . . . bearing in mind that the workshop manual was written for the benefit of time-served mechanics, not for amateurs like us !! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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