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Hi everyone, (TR6 restoration cont....)

Just building up the front suspension with all new bits...I have an issue with bottom trunnions.(See pic)..Having fitted new springs/shocks etc..with the suspension hanging,the trunnion stop bolt is hard up against the spring pan and jamming any steering movement.This can't be normal surely unless fitting the anti roll bar and rack lifts the suspension so that the trunnion is free but I have my doubts..before I continue I need some advice..thanks in advance.

Richard.

post-13961-0-70867300-1481366730_thumb.jpg

Edited by Richard Young
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Richard, The base of the spring looks to be about 1/2inch too far outwards for a TR6.

Yours looks more like a TR4A:

http://www.triumphexp.com/phile/7/55022/005.JPG

rather than a 6:

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk199/Tom74tr6/Front%20Suspension/5-14-08001.jpg

 

Could you have a TR4/6 bitsa? The 4 and 6 trunnions are, I think, the same, but not sure about wishbones or spring pans.

 

When the suspension is loaded there'll be more clearance but there could still be a risk of the unloaded side locking in tight turns. The arb will reduce the droop of the unloaded side. But any risk of steering locking is bad, so best to track down the problem.

 

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Peter...Heres a pic of original so again looks very close to what I have now.I didnt check at the time whether the original set up was jamming.I'm sure I have the correct TR6 parts so angle grinder might be the answer.Will wait a bit to see what others think.

 

Yes, new trunnions,will try the old ones (thanks Roger)

post-13961-0-24747800-1481375646_thumb.png

Edited by Richard Young
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Hi Richard,

can the pan be levered inboard a fraction. You don;t want it hitting the trunnion as something will give.

 

You may be able to grind some material off the trunnion.

 

Thinking sideways here - have you got longer springs than normal forcing it down further (not sure if that is possible)

The damper will limit movement - have you got that insitu.

 

Roger

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I think full droop is limited by the inner end of the lower wishbones contacting the corner of the chassis rail.

The ball joint is symmetrica

 

damper is in...new standard springs.Seems to me that there is normally a very close proximity between the two in which case grind a tad of the trunnion casting where the steering lock stop bolt enters might do the trick.Probably Rimmers version of a trunnion!

R.

IIRC you'll also need clearance for the eccentric limit-stop and its bolt. Wihtout that the brake disc will be gouged by the end of the long bolt.

Puzzling that this issue doesn't crop up more often....

 

I think.

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Hi Peter.

In normal loaded operation it will clear ...probably.

Thing is I cannot easily load the susp to find out as it is a obviously a bare chassis and weighs nothing.Its rather looking now like that a small adjustment will solve it ...i.e grinder.

Didnt want to go any further without consulting on the forum.Its probably the new trunnion casting is fractionally amiss in that area.

 

All good fun!

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So checking my 4a which is up on stands having a new side put in it at the moment, it has the new Moss Trunnions fitted (Same trunnion late 4 to 6) and on full drop the inner edge of the trunnion has about 1/16" clearance but the back of the lockstop is touching the spring pan. So try fitting the lockstop and then drop it down again.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Egg on face!!!!!!

Just dawned on me... I was thinking the trunnion itself turned but of course it doesnt! So it really doesnt matter it bottoming out on the spring pan when sus is hanging.It shouldnt do any harm.

Thanks Peter and Roger for your input and interest,sorry to have taken up your time.

Can't blame it on last night...it was a dry one for a change.

I guess the brain is slowing down at 67.

Richard.

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Hi Richard,

although this is possibly normal it is not a good design.

In normal operation the pan will miss the trunnion. But if/when the front end takes flight - humpy bridges etc then the trunnion will get a clouting.

This could cause damage somewhere

 

Roger

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Richard,

I had exactly the same a few weeks ago on my TR6, and on both sides.

Springs are original length. I left as is (no grinding), because in normal position the trunnion clears from the springpan.

Regards,

Waldi

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Richard,

I'd wait until the car is finished and the spring compressed to normal working length. That will open up the clearance. You then need to be sure that in hard cornering the clearance is still present on the drooping unloaded side. Otherwise the leverage on trunnion would stiffen the steering and wont help longevity of the upright. The arb will reduce the droop of the unloaded wheel, so the clearance may well be OK.

 

There are many 6s around with more negative camber - set by reversing the upper wishbone mounting- that will have less clearance than normal.

 

Peter

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Just noticed on full lock with the sus drooped the nut of the front top steering arm bolt (The longer one) touches the coil spring....Oh joy!

Have you fitted the lock stops yet?

Peter W

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Richard,

I agree with Neil, something is wrong.

 

Maybe the spring pans are from a TR4 not 4a/5/6.

 

Image of TR4 spring pan:

 

http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/45/1107145/001.jpg

 

And 4A/5/6:

http://thumbs4.picclick.com/d/w1600/pict/351854605879_/Triumph-TR4A-TR6-Front-Suspension-Lower-Spring-Pan.jpg

 

They are different:

- the 6 has the location of the spring retaining rim moved inboard, such that it has been recessed to fit around the heads of studs that locate the shocker. This would make the spring coil on a 4 sit further outboard than on a 6, by several mm.

- the edge where you have had to grind off material is sloped on the 6 and nearer vertical on the 4.

- these differences fit with post 2 showing a gap to the edge of the spring of about 1.5 limit-stop-bolt's head diameter on the 6, and less than one diameter on yours. Both are at full droop.

 

So my best guess is a previous owner fitted spring pans from a 4. And survived the experience. Maybe the answer now is to set the limit stop so the steering at full lock, car loaded, doesn't touch the spring.

 

But why should he have fitted two spring pans off a 4 ??

 

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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As mentioned, I have rhe same issue Richard has, trunnions contacting seat pan when springs are at max. Length.

So I checked my springpans, they are from a 4a/5/6, similar to Peters rusty example (thanks Peter).

I have 2 a d 1 shim fitted between the lower arms and the chassis, so nothing excessieve. Don't understand what is causing this.

Waldi

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Hi all, following this thread with interest.

 

Have done the nearside recently (it's a 6 and as per Peter's pics, correct spring pan) and currently doing the offside. I haven't experienced, or maybe noticed? these issues? It is somewhat loaded, as in the fact that the engine is in, one front at a time with the opposite wheel sitting on a dolly etc.

 

Happy to take pics if it helps, however I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along.

 

Regards

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