Rob Salisbury Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 +1 for double nutting of any of the studs, just getting any of them to move will help, in an ideal world removal of all of them will see the job done!! Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 My suggestion would be post #8 in this thread: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/59431-stuck-4a-cylinder-head/ ..... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Tried double nut on the passenger side, absolutely no give whatsoever... tried heating the studs with propane torch a few times, nothing (although the stud closest to the thermostat seems to be free in relation to the head, but wouldnt unscrew using the double nut method)... poured diesel in, and soaked some cloths around the studs, will try again tomorrow... I've also fitted an axle from a mini between a jack and a exhaust manifold stud to give it upward force - hopefully there'll be a "clung!"... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 11, 2016 Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Hi Luka, patience is a virtue . . . . . it's not unusual to have to wait a week for things to unstick . . . . . just give it time ! We've all been there . . . . . . I once had an engine hanging for 3 weeks . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 I would never think that it could weld itself like that I just can't imagine what does the block and the outer side of the liners look like... wouldn't surprise me if the figure of 8 gaskets have no use now, that the rust and the other gunk are sealing water from oil space... and then i should decide to just change the gasket and retorque... yikes Hopefully it won't take weeks for an update here Cheers! Luka Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Oh, and what's your view on pouring some vinegar to dissolve the rust inside? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Certainly some sort of liquid rust treatment plus a lubricant is the only way forward short of drilling out all the studs, I would go for a 50:50 mix of Phosphoric Acid (Genolite or similar) and Industrial Methylated Spirit applied to all the studs via the plasticine method, keep it topped up over a couple of days, warmth from a hot air blower would help but no naked flames, meths burns nicely!! Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I'd love to say that the head is off, but it isn't... so annoying There's been some progress however! After removing the exhaust manifold and the dynamo, i managed to jiggle the head a bit, enough so that the putty knife can slide between the block and the head at the rear of the engine, and almost half way up front from the manifold side. The dizzy side has separated nicely, but the front right hand side of the engine is welded together... My question is - would you rather go with a torch on the stud until glowing, and repeat it if necessary or - build a tool from an L profile where one side would fit on the manifold studs, the other over the rocker studs as anchor points then drill holes and weld nuts and fit bolts on the upper part of the profile, directly above the 5 head studs, and then gradually tightening each the bolts that would rest on the stuck studs, eventually pulling the head away. I've tried so far sds hammer thing, diesel soaking studs, lifting the entire car using a lever between a hydraulic lift and a manifold stud, even managed to fit a lift between the engine mount/dynamo bracket and the manifold stud, resulting in ridiculous force - without success... That rust can really weld! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 Yes, a bracketed flange can be made up although you'd need to use a substantial stud fixing along the rocker gallery area, I think the pedestal studs won't be strong enough when you use a spreading motion pushing against the studs. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 17, 2016 Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 I wonder if you could adapt a slide hammer to work vertically on the head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Guys! The bu99er is off! It took many weeks of swearing, sweat, pain and brute force, but it is off. The old gasket has paid the price, but with no other damage done to the head or block. However. Upon head inspection - this came up: It looks like the crack is localized only between the 2 water holes, and not towards the head stud holes, so perhaps this is usable? The valve guides are gone, so new need to be installed. Now the question is - should i use the head - have it hydrotested, or do i need to have valves that seat properly for that stuff? I'd like to avoid splashing money on something that's not usable... Any opinions more than welcome Cheers Luka Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Luka, the purists would not be happy with it but I have seen that before and they keep on going. Have the head skimmed (minimal) and go for it. You may find that in the block, immediately below that crack, there is a bridging piece within the block casting - that may also be cracked (but is not connected with the head crack). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rhino_mac Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 My head was found to be cracked between the waterways when it was removed - if you speak to Stuart he had a specialist repair done to it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Guys! The bu99er is off! It took many weeks of swearing, sweat, pain and brute force, but it is off. The old gasket has paid the price, but with no other damage done to the head or block. However. Upon head inspection - this came up: It looks like the crack is localized only between the 2 water holes, and not towards the head stud holes, so perhaps this is usable? The valve guides are gone, so new need to be installed. Now the question is - should i use the head - have it hydrotested, or do i need to have valves that seat properly for that stuff? I'd like to avoid splashing money on something that's not usable... Any opinions more than welcome Cheers Luka Cold stitching , I would not refit it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I thought that the head could easily have a slot there instead of 2 holes to match the block and the gasket... what consequences could there be if this is left untouched, just skimmed and bolted back on? What sort of prices am i looking at if replacing the head? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I guess if it turns out that the crack is going towards the stud holes, the head is scrap... Am i right here? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Luka, crack is caused because there is a fair degree of corrosion and the section of metal between the two water hole is thin(ish) to start with. The crack is going no further as the two water holes will act as crack stoppers. A slot is not required - leave as is. OK - it is not the perfect situation but the engine will slog on for many more miles. You can get new heads from Moss and they are very good. I have one and it dropped into place and worked from day one. Not cheap @ £1700 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bulatovic Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Thanks for the heads up Roger £1700 is really rather pricy... i hope a 2nd hand one in good nick is possible to find at a much more reasonable price, but i haven't seen one yet... Well since the cost of repairing the head is a gasket set, 8 valve guides, an exhaust manifold stud, a few nuts and washers and about £40 in labour (skimming, cleaning, valve seat and valve grinding and lapping, inserting guides) - i guess worth a try at less than a £100 compared to a new head at the mentioned amount... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Luka, there are second hand heads out there. Why not put out a call to see of one turns up. It will not be anywhere near your £100 mark though. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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