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TR4 engine bay photos


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About to refit everything into the engine bay following having it all repainted while the engine is being re-built

 

Would appreciate photos of well sorted engine bays (not concourse) as mine was a U.S. Car originally and was converted to RH drive many years ago (and much fiddling had been done since) so while I have photos of what was installed, this is my chance to create a tidy good looking engine bay

 

Thanks in advance

 

Email is gs at davissommerville dot com if that's easier

 

Graze

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Photos of both sides of the engine

post-9449-0-19893500-1479820793_thumb.jpg

post-9449-0-95885400-1479820856_thumb.jpg

The fuse boxes are on the wrong side because I used a TR5 wiring loom (a mistake) you can see the relays above the fuses on the inner wing - for O/D and spots

any questions?

Hope it helps

MichaelH

Edited by MichaelH
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Thing is - you want to keep your engine bay 'neat' but

you don't tell us what fittings/extras you have.

What carbs/manifolds/linkage/alternator? And any other

extras.

 

Also, I was going to point out that the wiring loom on

earlier TR4s had a different routing and didn't want to

post that in case it wasn't relevant.

 

So - I think your question was a bit too general.

 

AlanR

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Further details of the MichaelH engine picks

 

Different things on my engine bay:

The block and the rocker cover vent to the oil catch tank (got it from Chris Carter many moons ago but easy to replicate)

The air horns on the passenger side - about £10 from any shop

The narrow fan belt uses a front pulley from an MGB but Morris Marina will do also available from all specialists - about £112. Needs a collar to fit the oil seal (TREnterprises )

The coil is attached to a bar with two bolts welded to it through holed in the inner wing (the box section)

The oil filter has an adapter attached to standard oil filter head (I stopped using an oil cooler as it is a road car)

The distributor - old fashioned 123 - hence the extra curlly wires

Magnaflux leads (an expensive luxury

The water tank for screen washing is from Durite - the push switch on the dash looks normal but is in fact stuck with aradite to a push on/off electrical switch for screen washing is electric

The Revotec electric fan came from Europa specialist spares about £112

The aluminium radiator shroud was home made standard radiator recored by Leics radiators £125

The red plastic safety box round the battery terminal comes from Durite auto electrical parts

The alternator is an old (I think from Renault 11) but rubber mounted (from the rallying days)

Air filters you can see are K&N

Manifold and linkages are standard but I don't used gaskets - high temp silicon

You can just see the alternative bonnet opening device - home made (details on TR reg Technicalities TR action 188 page 27

Other things to spot are the Top hat of the Kenlow control with copper tube to front of top hose and finally

A piece of hack saw blade which is screwed to the side of the master cylinder holding frame which earths the steering column and earths the horn reliably

an don't forget the oil all over the place -as usual

Hope this is what people want

MichaelH

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Michael, David, Peejay

 

Many thanks guys, from those I can make some educated choices on how to proceed

 

alanR - fair point about non standard bits, hadn't considered that, sorry

 

Steph - I did try google but wasn't finding anything helpful, also looked through old magazines

 

I am mainly interested in the wiring, fuse box, relays and piping for fuel and brakes as all the rest is pretty much set

- alloy radiator, black alloy shroud

- air horns on passenger side

- coil mounted on passenger side inner guard

- mikuni carbs and custom linkage with K &N filters

 

Thanks again guys

 

Graze

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

There's a few pics of mine 'in the build' here:-)

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr4a-engine-bay.html

 

Best

 

Paul.

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Did you get sorted Graze?

I have some which might help if you still need any.

 

Nick

thanks Nick

 

its now all together - goes to dyno tune on Friday

 

this is the only photo i have at present

 

will post up some pics and details from the dyno

 

Graze

post-12376-0-76458900-1484096926_thumb.jpg

Edited by Graze
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  • 1 month later...

well thanks for the photos

 

post-12376-0-08413600-1487398479_thumb.jpg

 

 

here is how she ended up - second time lucky I'm hoping

 

post-12376-0-99294700-1487398500_thumb.jpg

 

and here it is on the long way home from the engine builder after we changed the oil & tightened up the head

 

 

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Paul (Graze)

What did the dyno run tell you ?

H

Edited by Hamish
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hamish

 

The main point for me on the Reno was to get the AFR correct with the Mikuni carbs

 

It showed 104 bhp at the wheels and 420ftlb torque

 

Car is going well but using a lot of fuel - around 20mpg

 

Graze

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Car is going well but using a lot of fuel - around 20mpg

 

Graze

I wouldn't call that ALL that much. Generally similar to mine though

I'm using 42DCOEs and 89mm liners - not sure how that compares

with your spec., especially if Mikunis give better/worse economy.

 

I can get 22mpg-ish on a motorway run, a lot less if most miles are

around town (and they often are).

Seems that Webers need to be set a bit rich at low revs to make sure

they don't run lean at high revs (with disastrous consequences).

 

I know others claim much better economy - I often wonder . . . . .

 

AlanR

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420ftlb of torque is massive isn't it ? ????

 

rolling road useful for fuelling set up whatever the type.

H

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I wouldn't call that ALL that much. Generally similar to mine though

I'm using 42DCOEs and 89mm liners - not sure how that compares

with your spec., especially if Mikunis give better/worse economy.

 

I can get 22mpg-ish on a motorway run, a lot less if most miles are

around town (and they often are).

Seems that Webers need to be set a bit rich at low revs to make sure

they don't run lean at high revs (with disastrous consequences).

 

I know others claim much better economy - I often wonder . . . . .

 

AlanR

Mine with Dellorto 40`s and 87+20 averages out at 32mpg on distance and at least 25 with a heavy right foot. Jetting if correct should be good over the whole range.

Stuart.

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420ftlb of torque is massive isn't it ?

 

rolling road useful for fuelling set up whatever the type.

H

Yep more than the classic BMW V8 engines which only has 360 lb ft give or take.

 

I think Graze has misquoted there probably meaning 120 lb ft, a 86mm engine on SUs is likely around 130 lb ft when built carefully.

 

Mick Richards

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Just to return to the original post, here are some Standard Triumph photos of both TR4 and 4A engine bays which should help those wanting originality.

 

They were sent to me some years ago by a ST employee who worked in the department that did the drawings for the parts books- he was/is a TR4a owner and was very helpful to me when first rebuilding my car back in the late 1970's.

 

I recall some similar photos appearing in display at the annual meeting (The International) when it was held at Donnington on the Melbourne Loop in around (?) 1978.

I also have a few more external shots of the TR4, one hardtop (Surrey) and one with soft top, but no hood fitted.

post-9736-0-95716400-1488123615_thumb.jpg

post-9736-0-51324400-1488123631_thumb.jpg

post-9736-0-02234700-1488123645_thumb.jpg

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Yep more than the classic BMW V8 engines which only has 360 lb ft give or take.

 

I think Graze has misquoted there probably meaning 120 lb ft, a 86mm engine on SUs is likely around 130 lb ft when built carefully.

 

Mick Richards

Mick

 

I thought it was huge too

 

But I have a graph which shows 420lb - unless I'm reading it wrongly

 

(Mick it says Tractive Effort 420lb )

 

Car does seem to go quite well

 

Graeme

Edited by Graze
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