Girling type A calipers (big side srew missing)

[Dave_163]

Hello,

 

For my TR4 rally project I do have the correct brake calipers which are Girling type A calipers (as TR3, apparently originial on some early TR4's).

 

For 1 caliper I am missing the big side screw which I can't find anywhere for sale.

 

Is there someone who sells these or knows about another option?

 

Late TR6 calipers with other brackets might do the job (quite cheap since reproduction) but as I want to keep the car within MSA / FIA / FIVA regulations this could be a problem, I guess.

 

Thanks.

 

Dave

 

Picture in attachement.

Edited October 19, 2016 by Dave_163

[Fireman049]

Hi Dave ~

 

Here's a brand new pair of callipers which unfortunately I sold last week!

 

Regards ~

Tom.

 

 

Edited October 19, 2016 by Fireman049

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Call me old fashioned.....

But I would have expected a TR4 on 'Girling 'B' Type series callipers to be the split type not the solid type that you have.

 

However

 

Crossthwaite and Gardiner list the plug as a spare. They make aluminium racing callipers. You will have to scan down this pdf to find the item.

 

http://www.crosthwaiteandgardiner.com/~edwar10/images/stories/pdfs/girling.pdf

 

Peter W

[stuart]

I have a pair if you need.

Stuart.

[Alec Pringle]

Solid calipers were superseded by split type at something over TS56K, before the major 60K TR3A evolutions.

 

I've never come across solid type calipers fitted as OE to a Michelotti car . . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[stuart]

I think its an allowable in period mod as it uses the larger disc.

Stuart.

[TorontoTim]

FWIW I have one of each (A and B ) on my early 4 (#217). However, I'm fairly sure that this is the result of some previous owner making do with what (s)he could get at some point.

The pads and pistons are the same, so I've kept them so far. I rally my car and have had no issues.

Edited October 20, 2016 by TorontoTim

[Dave_163]

^{Thanks a lot for the help.}

 

^{I'll give it a try with the spare part (listed Crossthwaite and Gardiner PDF). First measuring to be sure which one to order.}

 

^{I've been told that the type A solid calipers would have been fitted in some time to the early TR4's but not yet found confirmation in any book. But since I have the correct brake discs en brackets it would be great to keep them.}

Edited October 20, 2016 by Dave_163

[Lebro]

Good luck fitting the dust seals

 

Bob.

[MichaelH]

I think you will find that the Crosthwaite callipers are aluminium and a side screw in aluminium will react to your steel calipers

The alumium calipers are identical to the TR3A and TR4 calipers and were/are commonly used on racing Jaguars and the rear brakes for P4 Ferraris!

Michael

[TR 2100]

As Peter W observes, your calipers, as original, would be split B type.

 

That's not to say there may be some benefit in changing to another

type, but do your research on options and braking balance.

 

Just upgrading front or rear brakes on their own may lead to a result

that is NOT what you (or anyone!) would want.

 

FWIW, the TR4 brakes were changed to 16P type calipers at approx

CT 4,3xx - exact point is recorded but depends on whether wires or disc

wheels were specified.

 

AlanR

[MichaelH]

Just as a thought: if you need a new "screw" and they are not available I am sure any decent machine shop could make you one: it is very simple round with a thread and a semi circular cut

If you take out the screw you've got and ask them to replicate it : job done and probably not too expensive.

Michael

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

I think you will find that the Crosthwaite callipers are aluminium and a side screw in aluminium will react to your steel calipers

The alumium calipers are identical to the TR3A and TR4 calipers and were/are commonly used on racing Jaguars and the rear brakes for P4 Ferraris!

Michael

Crossthwaite and Gardiner make AR and CR types. I thought the TR uses BR if they are aluminium.

Some dimensional checks would be required. or a phone call.

Peter W

[TR 2100]

There are specialists who recon these calipers, and at

a fairly modest cost.

I wouldn't risk any kind of bodge/shortcut.

 

AlanR

[Dave_163]

@ Michael

You do have a good point: alu will react differently to heat than the steel caliper. So not worth the risk.

 

2 options left: machining new steel end cap or fit the later repro's (late tr4 and tr6) with required disks and brackets.

 

The b type girling (split) seems quite expensive compared to the later repro's (60 gbp piece). Any one experience with this solution ( are sold as replacement for TR4a)?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

@ Michael

You do have a good point: alu will react differently to heat than the steel caliper. So not worth the risk.

 

2 options left: machining new steel end cap or fit the later repro's (late tr4 and tr6) with required disks and brackets.

 

Not true - The 16p callipers will fit the early bracket and the larger diameter disc. The racey types suggest it gives better brakes as you have bigger diameter discs and a better choice of pad materials. The even better solution is the use of the 3 pot calliper with the bigger discs and early calliper brackets. - But that isn't a standard item for a TR.

 

Peter W

 

The b type girling (split) seems quite expensive compared to the later repro's (60 gbp piece). Any one experience with this solution ( are sold as replacement for TR4a)?

[MichaelH]

The later calipers are very good, lots people race using them - FIA race cars have them. It is true that some have used the aluminium variants and the slightly bigger discs

But for a rally car the problem is not stopping the wheel it is the wheel/tyre losing traction with the ground broken tarmac gravel

Did lots of road rallys in my 4A in the naughties. The standard calipers were fine - did use slightly harder pads

MichaelH