TRbeginner Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Hi All I've just discovered a major previous bodge to the column light switch on my TR5. As you can see from the first pic attached someone has had a go at a previous repair using a soldering iron, poker or similar! What is confusing me is that when I dismantled the surround and removed the switch, only three wires appear to have been present (and only two were attached!). The lights worked previously but the siring under the dash was bodged too. Looking at the wiring diagram, it shows five wires to the switch, but the Moss picture shows a new switch (without dip/flash) having four wires. Am I missing something? Apart from the wiring query does any one have any views on salvaging this switch, given that new ones are available? Whilst trying to sort the wiring out (the colours are not as per the manual) I removed the floor mounted dip switch - well, it was stuck on the bulkhead with mastic and fell off when I moved the carpet! In the pic attached you can see that it was mounted using two bolts into threaded holes (welded nuts) just visible behind the switch body. I simply need the bolts - are these available anywhere? The only pic have seen is from Moss where there appears to be a completely - an additional mounting assembly using brackets, self tappers etc(Page 138) and doesnt represent what is on the car at all. Any thoughts welcome on either of these queries. Id like to retain/recover originality as far as is possible. Thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 Judging by the state of that switch I think I would be inclined to change it, maybe better to try and find a good original to replace it with. There should be five wires and the switch should have a flash capability too. The dipswitch is mounted with two 10/32 UNF mushroom head Phillips screws.There is no plinth and it is screwed direct to the bulkhead (Always fun trying to find the holes when you fit a new carpet!) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 (edited) Many thanks Stuart for all the info. I've checked the column switch and there are only three positions for the switch, presumably off, side lights and head lights. No obvious flash capability....? The dip switch mounting screws makes sense, thanks. In terms of reconnecting/rewiring where necessary, I noticed (browsing another thread) that you arent keen on the 'dreaded blue crimp connectors' . What is the preferred method of attaching connectors (crimp, solder etc) and what type to use please? There seems to be conflicting advice all over the web. I'm trying to do all the work on the car to a high standard and not interested in short cuts/easy options. Thanks D Edited October 17, 2016 by TRbeginner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Hi David, Stuart is certainly correct about the switch. The one in your photo does not have the flash facility. You will need a replacement to regain that functionality. Crimps and soldering - A well made crimp is a better option than soldering for most connectors. The main reason is that soldered connections can set up electrolytic action when wet, which accelerates corrosion. A well made crimp includes some of the insulation in the crimp and this offers better protection of the wire. This is particularly relevant when dealing with connections in the engine bay. Inside the car, soldered connections are OK , but avoid vibration that could cause stresses on specific joints. (Use tie wraps, loom wrap, or lacing to keep all wires in place). Good luck, TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Hi David, these people do good stuff. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/ http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/429/female-blade-with-latch http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/433/female-blade-insulation http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/268/crimping-tool-with-spring-return-handles Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 22, 2016 Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 You maybe suprised not all 5/250 was wired the same , lack of use for flash ,try it.Pull Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 Believe it or not I've pulled with no flash! Better than the the pub though where I didnt pull at all...!! Thanks anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 Roger, thanks, very useful. D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted October 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2016 TT Thanks, very helpful and informative reply. Im learning all the time. D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Hi All The only pic have seen is from Moss where there appears to be a completely - an additional mounting assembly using brackets, self tappers etc(Page 138) and doesnt represent what is on the car at all. Any thoughts welcome on either of these queries. Id like to retain/recover originality as far as is possible. Thanks David David, The bracket, item 52, shown on Moss catalogue page 138 is for a left hand rive car. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted November 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 David, The bracket, item 52, shown on Moss catalogue page 138 is for a left hand rive car. Dave McD Thanks for clarifying that Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted November 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Thanks to everyone who has provided responses to my original question. Ive acquired a replacement original stalk, correct fastenings etc and the lighting system is working perfectly. One more bodge was found in the process - the steering column clamp which contains the harness on the underside of the column had been hacked to a mere 1.5 inches length - see attached! Why do people do these things?! Thanks again chaps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 As I am finding out (failure of footswitch connection insulation leading to short on the blue feed to lights and smoke and a failed switch) replacing all the switches and the bottom cover is a b***tch of a fiddly job. Glad you didnt have a fire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 As I am finding out (failure of footswitch connection insulation leading to short on the blue feed to lights and smoke and a failed switch) replacing all the switches and the bottom cover is a b***tch of a fiddly job. Glad you didnt have a fire. Snowric Indeed a fiddly job, and having re-assembled I did cringe at the compactness of the various bits of wiring inside the clamp - hopefully nothing has been damaged! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowric Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 Well you will soon know ! Make sure your connections on the footswitch are really well insulated. My blue wire clearly wasn't and my size 9s caused it to short against the switch body....causing a fried light switch, fried wire and several hours of work. Fortunatley none of the other wires were damaged... When I took out my indicator switch the wiring fell off so I did that too, ho hum. One of the adjustments some of the members seem to have done is relay their headlights and main beam entirely so the footswitch and headlamp switch are just running the side lights and the relay triggers.... Now everything works again, I suspect this will be my next project. Snowy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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