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Steering column coupling


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Hi team,

I am after your suggestions, I am reassembling my TR4 steering , the splined coupling at the top of the steering shaft is to big for the spline on the lower end of the steering column, I assume the spline at the base of the steering column has lost some thickness. As when I reverse the shaft the couplings fit perfectly the spline on the new steering rack itself. while the steering rack is new and the steering shaft looks new is it likely that the new parts have slightly bigger splines and couplings on them in relation to the original parts.

 

Or is it more likely the spline on at the lower portion of the upper steering column is just worn. In which case how the hell do you get it out because I have had no luck so far

 

Cheers jim

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They do often get seized together, once the clamp is undone and removed it should move but it will take a lot of soaking in release oil and a lot of gentle persuasion.

Stuart.

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Hi Jim,

good luck on getting it all apart.

Have a look at the attached picture. I found that the female splined part had a poor casting and would not crush down fully onto the male spline and would be loose.

I machined a slot into the female body to allow the 'D' shape to actually move.

 

Roger

 

 

 

 

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thanks guys

Stuart I have been soaking the part for close to two weeks now and its still frozen solid, Roger the issue you mentioned is exactly the problem I have the female spine dosent seem to crush down or close up at all, so thats what made me wonder if the new parts are the right size.

Niall I have seen the new Revington shaft on their site i have just been concerned about whether the clamps would work correctly on the spline at the end of m steering column. Its not quite as easy to freight stuff back and forward to NZ. I would be interested to hear on anyone who has brought the new shaft and perhaps some close ups of the couplings.

cheers Jim

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thanks guys

Stuart I have been soaking the part for close to two weeks now and its still frozen solid, Roger the issue you mentioned is exactly the problem I have the female spine dosent seem to crush down or close up at all, so thats what made me wonder if the new parts are the right size.

Niall I have seen the new Revington shaft on their site i have just been concerned about whether the clamps would work correctly on the spline at the end of m steering column. Its not quite as easy to freight stuff back and forward to NZ. I would be interested to hear on anyone who has brought the new shaft and perhaps some close ups of the couplings.

cheers Jim

Brass drift and a hammer and some judicious use of heat then Jim!

Stuart.

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Hi Jim,

if you do the mod I showed, or similar, and remove any entrapped metal then the clamps work perfectly.

 

Some people simply cut a hacksaw slot across the offending area. I think this is so unengineering.

 

Roger

Those of us not blessed with milling machines have to do what we can Roger!

 

Pete

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Funny you should say that Roger - I've been to the Midlands Model Engineering exhibition today, and been drooling over various machinery, but I just don't have the space. Also SWMBO might have something to say, since I've just bought a sectional insulated garage door with opener...

I'll have to let her buy a new handbag.

 

Pete

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It rhymes with clucking bell

 

Offered in NZ at NZ $ 135.00

http://www.palmside.co.nz/product_pcid_14818.html

http://www.palmside.co.nz/product_cid_10815.html

 

Peter W

 

PS are they any cheaper from the West Island?

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3634/name/steering-shaft-tr4-6

 

I will be giving this ago in December.

 

Apparently it stops any vague feeling in the steering?

 

My steering feels OK now but as I have to replace the upper bushes dash side I thought why not?

 

I'll report back.

 

Best.

 

Paul

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For many years now, I have been running my TR4, which has always had solid rack mountings (no squidgy rubber blocks!), with TR6-type universal joints at both ends of the steering column. There seems to be sufficient compliance in the tyres (195s on 5.5J steel wheels) to absorb road shocks.

Ian Cornish

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Penetrating oil and each day (yes it takes a while) drop the top part of the steering column end on onto a piece of wood a few times. The inner part will hit the wood while the outer part will try to keep moving. Eventually all you need is a couple of thou of movement to get it started. I had same problem once and took me a couple of weeks to release the 2 bits from each other. I seem to remember using a blow lamp as well to heat it up and then put it in the freezer to cool it down.

Keith

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Thanks Keith

yes i can see that i will just have to keep trying to remove this way, I have tried heat two or three times and droping on wood soaking in penetrating oil but no wins so far

will keep trying

cheers

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Ive got solid mounts with TR6 UJ's at either end of the column as above - as discussed in an earlier thread. The improvement in the feel of the steering was quite noticeable, with none of the anticipated shock etc over bumps - even with uprated springs, polybushes and 195 tyres. Maybe its all taken care of by the sprung steering wheel......

Edited by stuartmac
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys

I still need help It would seem that when a put a Vernier over the diameter of the male spline on the steering rack end it is 14.3 mm dia approx, where as the dia of the male spline on the upper steering shaft is only 12.7mm hence the reason a cannot get the coupling on the on the middle part of the steering shaft to grip the spline even after slotting it Roger

 

question can anyone advise me what is the Dia of their spline on the base of the upper steering column, so I know whether I have a rogue upper column for some reason

 

cheers jim

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