Time for new rear hubs ?

[ChrisR-4A]

Hi guys, about 4 years, ago I had the bearings replaced in the rear hubs on the 4A.

The LH side only lasted 3 months and became noisey so the bearing was replaced again. Done about 15000 miles since and I noticed yesterday that at over 65 there seemed to be more noise from the rear of the car than just the exhaust, which is standard stainless so not loud.

Anyway, today I jacked the car up and the LH wheel has about 1-2mm play holding the tyre at 12 and 3.

So it looks like its time for new hubs or maybe cv driveshafts but would that play create the noise? And what replacements are best to go for?

Thanks Chris

Edited August 15, 2016 by potts4a

[RogerH]

Hi Chris,

I'm in the same process. I understand that TRShop sell the Bastuck 'NEW' hubs at a good price.

 

many people say the CV joints are very good; but they are new to TR's and maybe not that much better than a standard hub.

There have been failures of CV joints on TR's - possibly caused by bad fitting (finger trouble)

 

There are very nice uprated hubs - Goodparts etc, but pricey.

 

I can't see a recon hub being any good as the stub axle is still 50 years old.

 

I'm going for the TRShop hubs.

 

Roger

[ChrisR-4A]

Hi Roger, agreed on recon, not worth the risk. I'm thinking that getting rid of the UJs seems like a good idea, if I have to replace some in 5 years I don't think I may want to do the job myself, be getting really old by then, I hope.

If I had to pay garage rates that would soon eat up the cvs extra cost.

Chris

Edited August 15, 2016 by potts4a

[ChrisR-4A]

Roger, have ordered a set of the CDD CV driveshafts with uprated hubs, should be fitting this week.

So I will be putting my splined shafts up for sale, thought I'd mention it on here first, they are Monarch shafts with a low friction coating and grease nipples, bought new about 30,000 miles ago and showing very little wear.Still fitted with recon standard hubs and good UJ's but one hub has a little play & slight noise. Shafts were over £300 when bought new and are over £370 today. So I was thinking about £150 the pair.

[AndrewMAshton]

Hello Chris, have you telescopic shocks on the rear?, there is a school of thought (including Stuart) that the telescopic shocks allow too much movement in the vertical (no bump stops) and it can compromise the CV driveshafts, I went back to lever arm dampers when I fitted my CV driveshafts, I did mention it to Alisdair Southall (CDD) at Lincoln sand he told me he was trying to get the definitive details of vertical movement and extension of the CV driveshafts, others may have more detailed information, cheers, Andrew

 

PS I have a number of CDD 'improvements', the quality is fantastic!

[ChrisR-4A]

Hi Andrew. a couple of people I know have telescopics & CVs with no problem but both have shorter stiffer springs which reduce the travel. I still have upper bump stops and downward travel is limited by the dampers which are Koni. There have been problems with dampers not matched to the TR application but I would think that the original soft 4A springs would be the biggest problem allowing large amounts or suspension travel.

[ChrisR-4A]

Re my old shafts, what I was thinking there worth and what someone thinks they are could be very different, so if you need some what are they worth to you? All offers considered plus carriage at cost or come and inspect and collect.

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Andrew. a couple of people I know have telescopics & CVs with no problem but both have shorter stiffer springs which reduce the travel. I still have upper bump stops and downward travel is limited by the dampers which are Koni. There have been problems with dampers not matched to the TR application but I would think that the original soft 4A springs would be the biggest problem allowing large amounts or suspension travel.

Chris,

 

There's a number of the CDD CV shafts and new hubs on Stags and there's been a couple of failures.

 

I've spoken to the owners, and after questioning I believe the failure was down to hyperextension of the shafts after the owners had disengaged their shock absorbers in the garage, for access purposes to allow the trailing arms down to full unrestricted droop. (it pops the CV balls out of their tracks). New defined methodology to safely achieve full unrestrained droop (for spring removal etc) is to unbolt the diff side of the driveshaft and ease the shafts off the securing bolts therefore preventing the driveshaft overexpanding when the trailing arm goes into full droop.

 

Mick Richards

Edited August 29, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey

[Motorsport Mickey]

For other members thinking that reconditioned hubs might be worth the gamble another report tonight of a Stag member who had the hub cry enough (and that would be a car maybe 15 years younger than many TRs and with owners driving who auditioned for "Driving Miss Daisy " ! ).

Reported speed of about 50mph and fortunately no body damage after it crammed the wheel up inside the wheelarch (Stags wheelarchs are enormous !).

Mick Richards

Edited August 29, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey

[ChrisR-4A]

Thanks for clarifying that Mick, I had read the other posts mentioning not to remove the shocks but It only takes a few second hand rumours to distort the truth.

[peejay4A]

Alisdair cautions against overextension in his fitting instructions, he gives a maximum suspension droop measurement (can't recall what it is atm). The spring rate won't alter the maximum droop, that's limited by the shock absorber. If you understand how these work and don't do daft things like remove a shock absorber without disconnecting the inboard CV then they're fine.

 

Edit: also Chris, unless you've already attended to them there's a good chance that at least one hub stud will pull out of the TA. I can recommend the CDD kit. It's not cheap for sure but it includes the loan of really well designed drilling and tapping jigs and the tools and thread lock to get the job done.

Edited August 30, 2016 by peejay4A

[ChrisR-4A]

The dimension given by Alasdair(cdd) for max drop of Swinging arm is 440mm measured from centre of driveshaft up to underside of wheelarch return flange. There is a tollerance and mine were 5-10 mm over but I was told thats fine. There is still about 50-60mm clearance from underside of driveshaft where it passes over the chassis down to the chassis.

Some of you will realise like I did that the wheelarch is not the ideal place to take a measurement as the body can be spaced differently from the chassis from car to car. I have suggested to Alasdair that a better datum would be the top of the spring bridge down to the shaft c/l as this is fixed to the chassis as is the S/A. I am waiting on his reply, if there is a new dimension I will post it on here.

Pete, yes I replaced all the studs with the shouldered ones.

Chris

Ps. Having completed the job I can say it does transform the car. The drive is much smoother and there is hardly any noise coming from the back of the car apart from the standard twin outlet ss exhaust(as per TR 250). Not driven far or hard enough yet to notice affects on suspension.

Edited September 3, 2016 by potts4a