riverstar Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I am following all the advice however my garage is just big enough to fit the car in and is on a slope so any major investigation is difficult. The engine was rebuilt 5K miles ago after problems with the liners and at that time the crankshaft was found to be in good condition and was just polished but new bearings were fitted so I am going to visit the company who did the rebuild for advice. If I have no success in the next few days I will follow Roger's advice and try to get the pump out Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I had a similar issue when rebuilding my engine many years ago. Turned out that the repro/ replacement oil pump drive from the dizzy was too short (by ¼") and was jumping out of the pump rotor. Replaced with drive shaft from Cambridge motorsport and all has been well for years now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Still tracking down my problem so before removing the sump I decided to remove the complete oil filter unit just to check it out and replace the filter (I have already replace the relief valve ball) Can someone tell me the purpose of the balance valve and if a problem there would create any problems. Turning the car over on the starter does produce a flow of oil from the block however I don't know how much to expect. I did run the engine for 30 seconds and everything sounded sweet and normal but didn't get any pressure at the gauge end Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter clarke Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi, out of interest did you find the cause Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi, out of interest did you find the cause Unfortunately no. I have tried everything I can think of within the restrictions of the garage space I have so I am now waiting for my local TR specialists to take a look Quote Link to post Share on other sites
unclepete Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi Chris Had exactly the same problem as you on my 3a. Oil pressure no problem (at tickover 60-65 psi when cold 45-50 psi when hot) then all of a sudden nothing? No horrible noises or grinding coming from the Engine? Same as you limped home and scratched my head. Turned out some muck/debris had caught under the oil pressure regulator ball bearing. If I remember correctly, the following method is not too mucky and oil did not leak out of the engine; On the Oil Filter head at right angles to the filter, you will see a large nut and a locking nut with a adjusting screw in the middle. I removed the large nut along with the locking nut and adjusting screw in one piece (easier to take apart the Oil Pressure regulator on the kitchen table). Loosened the locking nut and unscrewed the adjusting screw completely, withdrawing the spring and ball bearing (along with the lump of muck!) make a note of the number of turns. Clean everything, especially the inside of the regulator as the ball bearing must make a good seal. Reassemble and tighten the assembly back into the Oil Filter Head, leave the lock nut loose and turn the adjusting screw in the previously noted number of turns. Run the Engine and if you regain oil pressure Whoopee! Take this opportunity to set the Oil Pressure correctly, run the engine until warm, Rev to 2000 rpm and note the Oil Pressure (should be about 65psi) screw the adjusting screw in to raise the oil pressure, out to lower it. Nip up the Lock Nut and recheck the Oil Pressure at 2000 rpm. Job done and didn't cost anything but time. (I took the opportunity to replace the Oil Filter with a spin off conversion) Good Luck Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi Chris, Please continue to update the forum. I for one would like to hear how this tale ends. I'm sure it's not the problem but when I replaced the spring in the relief valve I couldn't believe how much longer it was than the old one. I would always recommend changing it with the ball. If the engine sounds ok I would be optimistic. Good luck. Regards, Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peter clarke Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 With this type of valve I always give the ball a good "tap" with a flat ended punch to make sure it seats correctly on the orifice .......but make sure all is clean first! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 I have removed the complete filter unit and found everything to be very clean but still cleaned everything and replaced the ball with a new one and a new filter and am convinced everything is fine. I mentioned before that when I turn the oil pump by hand I get oil filling the pedestal also with the filter housing off oil comes out when turning the engine over but I am not sure the volume I should expect. I know there is not problem with the key at the top of the shaft so am thinking of Roger's suggestion that there could be a problem with the key on the bottom end of the shaft and its only friction that is pumping some oil, so I am just waiting for the garage to remove the pump for inspection. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfie14 Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Hi Chris Being following your oil pressure problem, l had the same loss of oil pressure loss a few weeks ago, tried all the easy option without any luck so off came the sump on removing the oil pump l found the key way had snap hence loss of pressure, replace the pump, still no pressure so off to my local specialist. They found that the reason for no pressure with the new pump was because the roll pin in the worn gear on the drive shaft from the dist to the pump had snap which allowed shaft to move and not engauge with oil pump key way, solving this restored the oil pressure. Unfortunatley l must have driving longer than l thought, so the engine is now in for a complete rebuild. Hope you have better luck. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfie14 Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Hi Chris/All Apologies for the bad English. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Hi Chris, any news on the zero oil pressure. There is a pump topic on the 'Technical' forum It would be nice to see how that is affected. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Still tracking down my problem so before removing the sump I decided to remove the complete oil filter unit just to check it out and replace the filter (I have already replace the relief valve ball) Can someone tell me the purpose of the balance valve and if a problem there would create any problems. The balance ball is there to allow unfiltered oil through to the oil gallery IF the oil filter becomes blocked. It is a bypass valve to hopefully save the engine in the event of a clogged filter element. On 6 cyl cars there is a sort of mushroom shaped thing that the filter element sits on that serves the same purpose. Peter W Turning the car over on the starter does produce a flow of oil from the block however I don't know how much to expect. I did run the engine for 30 seconds and everything sounded sweet and normal but didn't get any pressure at the gauge end Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Hi Pete, you are causing chaos to my brain. I thought the ball was there to bypass oil back to the sump (or wherever) in order to keep the pressure below a maximum. However I'm sure a blocked filter could cause mighty trouble. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 There are two ball valves on the Full flow type filter heads - NOT the TR2 bypass head. The one screwed in spring and ball from the side with the adjustable thread and lock nut sets the oil pressure relief. Then there is the one screwed in the top with a cap nut that is not adjustable. The non adjustable one with the cap nut is the bypass valve to allow oil into the gallery should the filter become blocked. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted November 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 Currently in Phnom Penh and will continue my investigations when I return sometime in December Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 10, 2016 Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 Hi Pete, I didn't know that. Thanks. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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