RogerH Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Folks, it must be the silly season for clutch problems. Whilst touring Scotlandshire last month the feel of the clutch pedal changed. It would press in OK and start to release but half way up the pedal stroke it would suddenly jump and grip. Today that problem was solved - it wouldn;t jump and grip. It simply had not tractions. After a few desperate pedal action I got it to work. So home I went. I'm now in the process of removing the GB - I hate taking it out but out it must come. Tomorrow should be interesting. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Folks, it must be the silly season for clutch problems. Whilst touring Scotlandshire last month the feel of the clutch pedal changed. It would press in OK and start to release but half way up the pedal stroke it would suddenly jump and grip. Today that problem was solved - it wouldn;t jump and grip. It simply had not tractions. After a few desperate pedal action I got it to work. So home I went. I'm now in the process of removing the GB - I hate taking it out but out it must come. Tomorrow should be interesting. Roger I feel your pain Roger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 If only it was like the FB Victor where you could drop the clutch and 1st motion shaft out of the bottom of the bell housing!....if only..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Kev, would you like to pop round and get the scuffed knuckles to go with the pain Not looking forward to it. I'm going to take the box out and leave the engine in place - however I would prefer to take both out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I think you might find the release bearing fouling on the nose cone. At some time I have to pull the box out of Jas as I was talked into a mod which now causes a problem that did not exist before. B**LICKS why did I listen and not leave alone! Regards Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Harry, every now and then you think - this isn't funny Thankfully many of us can do these jobs - but it still isn't funny. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi Kev, would you like to pop round and get the scuffed knuckles to go with the pain Not looking forward to it. I'm going to take the box out and leave the engine in place - however I would prefer to take both out. Roger Sorry Roger no knuckles left, if I was closer I would pop round and give you a hand but I am sure you would be able to whip it out in no time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 If you wait a couple of days it will be cooler. Are you sure it is not a hydraulic problem ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi Bob, the slave moves in and out freely with pedal pressure when not connected to the cross shaft. The cross shaft moves in and out when connected to the slave and has that feel at a certain point as if tripping through a sticky spot. Yesterday the bearing couldn;t get past the sticky spot without me stamping on the pedal. On Monday I lubricated the master cy pivot and the slave cy/cross shaft arm pivot. I also moved the slave tot he lower pivot hole to ease things. I don't think this lower hole is the issue I'm sure the problem lies inside the bell housing. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi Roger, Sounds very much like the release fork pin has sheared. Do you have an extra cross pin fitted? Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi Graeme, it is not disengaging. The taper pin is working very well. It is a laycock pressure plate and have a feeling it is going in too far and going over centre (probably not possible) but that is the impression. Almost certainly the bearing carrier is binding on the extension iten 60 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/gearboxes-components/gearboxes-external-components.html Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi Folks, the GB is out (will it ever go back in !!) Rotating the crossshaft lever by hand there was a sticky patch near full disengagement. Probably not enough to lock it in position - but perhaps the force of the diaphragm fingers may tilt the carrier and dig it in. On very close inspection of the extension there is a small indent (a reverse ridge) around part of the circumference at apprx where the sticky patch is. The 2 month old bearing does not sound good - quite metallic and dry - should they have a lubricant inside them I have an old TR4 Hoffman bearing with 60K miles on it and it sounds beautiful and as if lubricated. The 2 month old phosy bronze carrier is starting to get depressions in where the fork pegs slip round. New spares this afternon Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) Roger The pins on the fork will be to tight also put the nose cone in the lathe I think you will find the face it not flat. Edited July 20, 2016 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Many thanks Neil - will investigate. Good to chat to you on Saturday. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Hi Folks, well I got some nice shiny bits. I normally go for the phosy Bronze bearing carrier but they don;t last long. The fork pegs dig in. My very old carrier does not suffer this problem. This leads me to believe that the material is different. I ended up buying a steel carrier - but not an ordinary one - mine is black and lovely. Tomorrow I shall assemble the clutch and bits and just slip the GB into thew car When I took the box out this morning I notice a large gloop of grease beneath the ends of the selector rods. Is this thick oil from the box or grease from the selectors. I'm going to encase this in a polythene bag to stop the grease going everywhere. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Hi Folks, well that was fun (not). I used the Hydraulic engine hoist to get the box into the car laying on the floor panels near to where it needed to be. I then swung it over the gap between the floor panels and supported on an electric scissor jack. With a crocodile jack under the engine and the scissor jack under the box it was just a matter of getting the engine and box to align. I think it would have been easier to get Jupiter, Saturn and Pluto to align - what a bugger. And then it got exciting - the hand control for the electric scissor jack decided to explode (may be not quite explode but definitely stopped working. I couldn't get the jack from under the GB - stuck. In the end I took the control apart and hard wired it to the battery. And then the moment you pray for - the box popped in as if there was no problem at all. In a few minutes I shall refit all the bits and see if it works. As an aside has anybody tried the coaxial slave cylinders (as per modern car). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Well done, cannot have been a pleasant job in this heat. Why is it, when refitting gearboxes to engines, that you spend anything up to an hour adjusting the height, the sideways angle, rotating the splines & it still won't go, then after a brief rest you try again, & it just slides on as if nothing was ever wrong ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Well done Roger, fingers crossed all goes well. You don't want to take that bu$$er out again any-time soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Roger, I fitted a co-axial slave to my TR6. I had a clutch, shaft etc with about 5,000 miles on it and the cross shaft pin sheared, with so many reports of similar failure over many years I despaired of anyone making a "decent" pin that would not shear so I threw caution (wallet) to the wind. The old pins must have lasted longer - how many time have I heard that about various replacement Triumph bits. Two or three days hard labour for a £15 pin is not my idea of good value, and it could (would) snap the first day of use. (Yes I know you can put extra bolts in) Co-axial was easy to fit, works very well, smooth. Noticeably better when the car is creeping forward in heavy traffic with the clutch slipping. Now done a faultless 2000 miles. You are welcome to take it for a test drive should our paths ever cross. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Hi Alan, indeed the taper pin is quite a saga. Most people put an extra roll pin or bolt through. I have a fork where the top of the taper fits in a tight hole. Most have holes way too big. So mine is in double shear and should never fail (I probably shouldn;t have said that) Whose coaxial slave did you use and was there any special setting up for it. I plan taking the engine and box out again at the end of September and it would be good to sort the slave then. Any way my clutch and box are in now. The pedal feels reasonable but I'm sure I can still feel a point where it could stick - time will tell. The overdrive and gears are all working. Underneath the gearstick where the selectors gather it gets quite oily/greasy so I have installed a nappy to ctach anything floating around. Roger Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Roger, http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/partsxx/cmc070-0 Nicely machined parts and just a few standard sized O rings that will be easy to obtain at any time in the future. 4 bolts removed from back of bell housing, new item fitted with the four bolts, measure the distance to the clutch plate to check the distance was Ok for the new slave, it was Ok. Probably took 15 minutes to fit once the gearbox was out. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Hi Alan, that looks good and not too pricey. What did you do with the master cylinder - new smaller or pedal stop. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Roger, I took advice and also bought a smaller volume master cylinder (GT6 ?) when fitted I had problems with the clutch not fully disengaging and a very, very small amount of drag left on the clutch. I had fitted a new standard plate & cover from Moss - nothing fancy. I re-bled a number of times (very easy) but no improvement so I refitted my original master cylinder and that works a treat. My clutch pedal aligns directly with the extra thread of a pedal box mounting bolt (screwed into the cockpit from the engine bay. I simply fitted a coupling nut over the exposed thread and then a suitable length bolt into the coupling nut to provide a positive pedal stop. I’m not sure the stop was needed in my case as all felt well, but better safe than sorry. I feel that this update has given me peace of mind that it is one item I can fit and forget if I drive a long distance, it also allays the concern that in traffic a breaking taper pin would send me gracefully into the rear of the car ahead. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 I have a Tilton annular clutch kit which I fitted in 2004 and it works fine.Probably changed seals when the box had to come out as it made sense to do it at the same time. I have a clutch judder which I thought may have been the way it was machined for a floating bearing but may be the new Laycock cover, not sure at the moment. What a wonderful hobby we have !!! Good luck Roger. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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