tr4a The clutch....

[david c]

So engine back in and running.........after a fashion.

Next big step, see if it moves under its own steam.

Does it bugg**y.

Today's problem, It wont go into gear. With the engine off and the clutch fully depressed I can go through the gears.

With the engine running despite burying the clutch in the carpet I can not get it in to gear.

The whole gearbox and overdrive was rebuilt by Mike Papworth and I have no doubt he made a proper job. I have fitted a new clutch and I'm reasonably sure I have done that right. The slave cylinder is attached as the WSM indicates and the pushy rod thing is fitted to the center hole in the leaver arm.

I am sorry but I don't understand the function of the nut on the threaded portion of the pushing rod, is this to give me some adjustment?

What else should I check?

 

Any advise gratefully received David C

 

[Lebro]

The nut, as you say is to lock the rod in position after adjusting the rod length to get the correct free play on the clutch lever.

I don't know if you have a return spring fitted, but if so, unhook it from one end, the feel how much free movement you have on the rod coming from the slave cylinder. there should be a small amount - say 1/8". if not lengthen or shorten the rod by screwing in, or out of the fork, then when correct tighten the nut up against the fork.

The pin connecting the fork to the clutch lever would normally go in the middle hole.

 

Re-connect the spring (if you have one), then I suggest to get someone to press the clutch pedal down, while you watch the slave cylinder, you should see the rod move by an inch or so at least.

 

Good luck

Bob.

[Geko]

Did you bleed the system - properly ?

FYI the return spring is not required on 4A

[RogerH]

Hi David,

as mentioned has the slave been bled fully.

Is the bleed nipple at the top of the slave. This is important as all the air will not come out if the nipple is at the bottom.

 

Although the 4A should not need a return spring I would suggest fitting one. If you have a bearing that drags it will start to wear the diaphragm fingers away.

The spring will keep things separate.

 

Is the ANY wear in any of the links/pins etc. Wear will cause chaos.

 

Roger

[stillp]

Is the clutch just dragging? If you put it into gear and then try the starter, what happens? How long has the new clutch been standing? Was anything done to the flywheel?

 

 

Pete

[david c]

Thanks all.

There does not appear to be wear in the leaver arm or the screw in pin thing. all other parts are new.

I don't know about clutch drag, so far I have been unable to get the car moving under its own steam yet. I have put it in gear and tried the stater, that made it think, jump forward a few inches and stall.

Reading up on the interweb about this it seams I may have not bleed the clutch properly. I may well have opened up the bleed screw too much, and the rubber bleed tube is not a snug fit on the nipple, either or both of these could be allowing air back in during the bleeding operation. back in the shed tomorrow so will fix those two things first and see how we go.

Another "dodge" seems to be to fit "spacers" / nuts between the bracket and the bell housing to give more movement, I know this isn't proper so reluctant to try that one.

 

I know the clutch and it's associated problems have been done to death on the forum, sorry to have to go over old ground. David

[stillp]

I suggest you bleed the slave cylinder again, and if it still doesn't work then the clutch friction plate could be 'stuck' to the flywheel. Jack the back end up, securely support it on axle stands and chock the front wheels. Then put the car in gear and start the engine. Press the clutch pedal and hit the brakes. Repeat a few times. If that doesn't free it then it's a gearbox out job.

 

Pete

[david c]

I tried a similar trick on a Stag I had many years ago, pushed the car on to the road put it in gear and "drove" off on the starter motor, freed up the clutch with a hell of a bang, did the trick though.

The clutch has only been in six months and has never been used. I can't believe its stuck on, but will try the shock treatment before I resort to taking the gearbox out again.

 

Thanks for the tip David

[RogerH]

Hi David,

you mention fitting spacers/nuts behind the slave bracket - there shouldn't be space to do that - what gives?

 

Roger

[stillp]

I tried a similar trick on a Stag I had many years ago, pushed the car on to the road put it in gear and "drove" off on the starter motor, freed up the clutch with a hell of a bang, did the trick though.

The clutch has only been in six months and has never been used. I can't believe its stuck on, but will try the shock treatment before I resort to taking the gearbox out again.

 

Thanks for the tip David

Six months is plenty long enough for it to get stuck, especially if it hasn't been used. Mine seemed to get stuck after each winter layup, but seems better now it's polished a bit. If it won't go into gear on the first start of the year, I just try again in second gear, which always works (so far). My car does have some large holes butchered into the bell housing, which I suspect a PO made so they could get something in to shock the clutch free.

 

Pete

[Lebro]

 

Re-connect the spring (if you have one), then I suggest to get someone to press the clutch pedal down, while you watch the slave cylinder, you should see the rod move by an inch or so at least.

 

Good luck

Bob.

Just to reiterate the above, get someone to press the pedal, & watch the slave cylinder. If the rod does not move, or not very much then it is a hydraulic problem, so worth bleeding the system again. If it does move an inch or so then the problem is the clutch it's self.

 

Bob.

[Stevecross]

David's clutch is not stuck.

 

It was only fitted back to the flywheel about 3 weeks ago after I assisted him in the rebuild of his engine.

I also know he put the friction plate in the correct way round.

 

This is the usual bleed problem.

 

Steve

[littlejim]

I had to wind the nut on the clutch adjuster out a long way to get mine to release properly, after fitting a new clutch plate as part of the refurb.

Got the impression that the new Moss one had more 'meat' on it than the old one.

Vaguely recall I had to use the top hole too, to get a release.

Will get under to check if you request me to.

Edited May 31, 2016 by littlejim

[david c]

Hello All

Deep joy, I now have a working clutch, I can select gears and everything! The poor old sod moved under it's own steam for the first time in 30 years, not very far obviously it's blinking wet out there.

Started at the top re tightened all the unions, re bleed the clutch, turned out the thread on the clutch adjuster thing and bingo.

Thank you everyone for your advise and patience.

 

David.

 

 

Now about that charging light......................