monty Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Have read a previous post on the TR3 forum regarding squealing brakes but I still have the annoying problem. Using new Mintex 1144 fast roads pads with standard new discs & stainless steel shim kit to suit. Assembled with Ceratec anti squeal grease, all as recommended but still squealing once the pads get warm. The noise started after around 500 miles of use which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles. Just had the pads out again today for chamfering the leading edges & regrease of shims & pins but still squealing! Any ideas or return to standard pads (say Mintex 1109). A shame as the 1144 seem good & more positive than previous standard items. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Monty, I had a squeal problem with 1144 pads on my 4A. I tried everything to cure this but without success. It was really embarrassing round town, people looked at me as if I had metal to metal contact! I fitted Ferodo DS Performance Pads ( FER 167 from www.burtonpower.com) three years ago and after bedding them in properly can report that the only time I hear a slight squeal now is when they are cold and I brake when reversing -- I can live with that. If you have original calipers bear in mind that the pads I mentioned are to fit 70s Ford models and you will need to enlarge the holes in the pads to accommodate the slightly larger diameter imperial retaining pins for your calipers. This took me a few minutes with a rat tail file. The Ferodo pads are excellent, if anything they have better bite from cold that the 1144s and I haven't yet made them fade on the road. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Monty, I had a squeal problem with 1144 pads on my 4A. I tried everything to cure this but without success. It was really embarrassing round town, people looked at me as if I had metal to metal contact! I fitted Ferodo DS Performance Pads ( FER 167 from www.burtonpower.com) three years ago and after bedding them in properly can report that the only time I hear a slight squeal now is when they are cold and I brake when reversing -- I can live with that. If you have original calipers bear in mind that the pads I mentioned are to fit 70s Ford models and you will need to enlarge the holes in the pads to accommodate the slightly larger diameter imperial retaining pins for your calipers. This took me a few minutes with a rat tail file. The Ferodo pads are excellent, if anything they have better bite from cold that the 1144s and I haven't yet made them fade on the road. Tim Thanks for that Tim. I am now starting to think the 1144 pads are the problem. I may just opt for the standard recommendation by Revington of the 1109 material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 " which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles " I'm not sure how you bed pads in for 200 miles . . . . . in my experience it needs not very long, as I've mentioned before . . . . my preferred procedure for fast road/light competition pads would be accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10, again accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10 and repeat until you've done it a dozen times, then drive another few miles to let the brakes cool and then repeat the dozen hard brakings in rapid fire succession. Carry on driving whilst the brakes cool down again and you should find a significant difference thereafter. DO NOT brake to a halt, only down to 10mph or thereabouts - coming to a halt, foot on brake pedal, will not benefit new discs and pads !! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 hawk pads work well for me, pre- chamfered, no shims and no noise Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 hawk pads work well for me, pre- chamfered, no shims and no noise Yes I was going to go for those but out of stock @ the time, so went for the next choice & recommended Mintex! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 " which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles " I'm not sure how you bed pads in for 200 miles . . . . . in my experience it needs not very long, as I've mentioned before . . . . my preferred procedure for fast road/light competition pads would be accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10, again accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10 and repeat until you've done it a dozen times, then drive another few miles to let the brakes cool and then repeat the dozen hard brakings in rapid fire succession. Carry on driving whilst the brakes cool down again and you should find a significant difference thereafter. DO NOT brake to a halt, only down to 10mph or thereabouts - coming to a halt, foot on brake pedal, will not benefit new discs and pads !! Cheers Alec Sorry Alec that was supposed to read 100 miles of use, gradually increasing the braking as the miles went by. Procedure given to me by Mintex & supplier. Will try your method next time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 hawk pads work well for me, pre- chamfered, no shims and no noise[/quote Type & supplier? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi Monty, I've looked at the Mintex website, I can see where you're coming from, but the recommendation does not align with my experience . . . . . . Bedding-in pads is one of those areas where there are numerous opinions and techniques, and here's another view http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/technical-tips/pad-bedding-in/mintex Steady braking for the first 50, 100 miles or whatever has caused me grief in the past, as in squealing . . . . . Nowadays I degrease new discs thoroughly, then roughen the surface with some decent sandpaper, and give the pads some hard work for starters . . . . . if the discs are not really thoroughly cleaned, the resultant glaze squeals like the devil, which means removing discs and pads and sanding off all surfaces. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hawk fast road from Cambridge Motorsport but cheaper through their e bay store than direct as advised in other threads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Bedding in 1144's 30-0 - gentle braking 40-0 - gentle braking 50-0 - gentle braking 60-0 - gentle braking 70-0 - gentle braking Allow to cool then bedded in!! They need a quick bedding in unlike standard pads Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Well, assuming I may not have bedded them in exactly, can I rectify the problem or start from scratch again with either Hawk fast road or say Mintec 1109 improved standard? Loath to part with another £60 or £70 to get similar problems! Maybe Mintex 1109 @ around £25 is the preferable next route to see how they perform. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Can I extend this post a bit by saying I have a loud sqeel from the drum shoes on the 4A. They have done about 5000 miles and drums were new also. It happens at lighter pressures normally in traffic. Does shift jaywalkers though. Mot readings are fine and brakes do stop you ok with the fitted servo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Bedding in 1144's 30-0 - gentle braking 40-0 - gentle braking 50-0 - gentle braking 60-0 - gentle braking 70-0 - gentle braking Allow to cool then bedded in!! They need a quick bedding in unlike standard pads Tom Agree, that how i did mine (as soon as the escape from suburbia allowed) - but they still steel when hot again ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Agree, that how i did mine (as soon as the escape from suburbia allowed) - but they still steel when hot again ! Hello McMuttley, Have you tried this stick on material metal shim replacement? I think that is my next step after still getting squealing after taking the pads out, chamfering the leading edges & regreasing the shims & pins etc. If that fails then I am dumping the 1144 & trying standard pads again (Mintex 1109). Do not think it is the bedding in process as they were fine with no squealing for the first 300 miles or so. The standard pads gave me a trouble- free track day with no fade. Not too keen to spend another £70 to get a similar result! Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Hi Monty, I have bought some as mentioned in the other thread, but as yet haven't got around to fitting them ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 " which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles " I'm not sure how you bed pads in for 200 miles . . . . . in my experience it needs not very long, as I've mentioned before . . . . my preferred procedure for fast road/light competition pads would be accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10, again accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10 and repeat until you've done it a dozen times, then drive another few miles to let the brakes cool and then repeat the dozen hard brakings in rapid fire succession. Carry on driving whilst the brakes cool down again and you should find a significant difference thereafter. DO NOT brake to a halt, only down to 10mph or thereabouts - coming to a halt, foot on brake pedal, will not benefit new discs and pads !! Cheers Alec Alec, assuming I may just revert back to standard pads (Mintex 1109) would your bedding in procedure be similar or a different approach? Regards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Hi Monty, I use the same procedure for whatever pads, not had a problem yet . . . . . unlike Tom, I don't like bringing the car to a halt, as in the possibility of cooking the new pads or discs. I reckon bedding-in pads is a bit like cams, more than one way to skin a cat. One problem I have encountered in the past - hard pads used gently, and tending to squeal as a result. Can't recall which spec/make of pad, too long ago, but gentle driving and they were all too prone to glaze over and then squeal . . . . . fine as long as you were driving hard, but not good for touring with granny in the passenger seat ! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Can I extend this post a bit by saying I have a loud sqeel from the drum shoes on the 4A. They have done about 5000 miles and drums were new also. It happens at lighter pressures normally in traffic. Does shift jaywalkers though. Mot readings are fine and brakes do stop you ok with the fitted servo. Chris, have you tried cleaning the dust out of the drums? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Chris, have you tried cleaning the dust out of the drums? Pete Good point Pete & as part of my problems I took a look @ mine. Around 8000 miles covered & nothing dust wise to speak of! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 In most cases, bedding, chamfering, chiming and the like will not provide any cure to persistent squealing. Under humid climate - especially if the car is not used on daily basis- squealing is caused by a small deposit of rust being trapped between the disc and the brake pad. Unless the car is stored if perfectly dry conditions, there's no wa Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 fatty fingers... no way to prevent that from happening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 My brakes squeal, but mostly when I am going downhill. Very little if at all when going uphill to a junction. Any good theories on this? Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 You're braking harder when going downhill? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 Stef, squealing is often caused by the pads 'fluttering' in the caliper, hence copaslip on the back of the pads often helps. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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