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Have read a previous post on the TR3 forum regarding squealing brakes but I still have the annoying problem. Using new Mintex 1144 fast roads pads with standard new discs & stainless steel shim kit to suit.

Assembled with Ceratec anti squeal grease, all as recommended but still squealing once the pads get warm. The noise started after around 500 miles of use which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles. Just had the pads out again today for chamfering the leading edges & regrease of shims & pins but still squealing! Any ideas or return to standard pads (say Mintex 1109). A shame as the 1144 seem good & more positive than previous standard items.

Cheers.

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Monty, I had a squeal problem with 1144 pads on my 4A. I tried everything to cure this but without success. It was really embarrassing round town, people looked at me as if I had metal to metal contact! I fitted Ferodo DS Performance Pads ( FER 167 from www.burtonpower.com) three years ago and after bedding them in properly can report that the only time I hear a slight squeal now is when they are cold and I brake when reversing -- I can live with that. If you have original calipers bear in mind that the pads I mentioned are to fit 70s Ford models and you will need to enlarge the holes in the pads to accommodate the slightly larger diameter imperial retaining pins for your calipers. This took me a few minutes with a rat tail file. The Ferodo pads are excellent, if anything they have better bite from cold that the 1144s and I haven't yet made them fade on the road.

 

Tim

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Monty, I had a squeal problem with 1144 pads on my 4A. I tried everything to cure this but without success. It was really embarrassing round town, people looked at me as if I had metal to metal contact! I fitted Ferodo DS Performance Pads ( FER 167 from www.burtonpower.com) three years ago and after bedding them in properly can report that the only time I hear a slight squeal now is when they are cold and I brake when reversing -- I can live with that. If you have original calipers bear in mind that the pads I mentioned are to fit 70s Ford models and you will need to enlarge the holes in the pads to accommodate the slightly larger diameter imperial retaining pins for your calipers. This took me a few minutes with a rat tail file. The Ferodo pads are excellent, if anything they have better bite from cold that the 1144s and I haven't yet made them fade on the road.

 

Tim

Thanks for that Tim. I am now starting to think the 1144 pads are the problem. I may just opt for the standard recommendation by Revington of the 1109 material.

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" which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles "

 

I'm not sure how you bed pads in for 200 miles . . . . . in my experience it needs not very long, as I've mentioned before . . . .

 

my preferred procedure for fast road/light competition pads would be accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10, again accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10 and repeat until you've done it a dozen times, then drive another few miles to let the brakes cool and then repeat the dozen hard brakings in rapid fire succession. Carry on driving whilst the brakes cool down again and you should find a significant difference thereafter. DO NOT brake to a halt, only down to 10mph or thereabouts - coming to a halt, foot on brake pedal, will not benefit new discs and pads !!

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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hawk pads work well for me, pre- chamfered, no shims and no noise

Yes I was going to go for those but out of stock @ the time, so went for the next choice & recommended Mintex!

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" which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles "

 

I'm not sure how you bed pads in for 200 miles . . . . . in my experience it needs not very long, as I've mentioned before . . . .

 

my preferred procedure for fast road/light competition pads would be accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10, again accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10 and repeat until you've done it a dozen times, then drive another few miles to let the brakes cool and then repeat the dozen hard brakings in rapid fire succession. Carry on driving whilst the brakes cool down again and you should find a significant difference thereafter. DO NOT brake to a halt, only down to 10mph or thereabouts - coming to a halt, foot on brake pedal, will not benefit new discs and pads !!

 

Cheers

 

 

Alec

Sorry Alec that was supposed to read 100 miles of use, gradually increasing the braking as the miles went by. Procedure given to me by Mintex & supplier. Will try your method next time!

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hawk pads work well for me, pre- chamfered, no shims and no noise[/quote

 

Type & supplier?

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Hi Monty,

 

I've looked at the Mintex website, I can see where you're coming from, but the recommendation does not align with my experience . . . . . .

 

Bedding-in pads is one of those areas where there are numerous opinions and techniques, and here's another view

 

http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/technical-tips/pad-bedding-in/mintex

 

Steady braking for the first 50, 100 miles or whatever has caused me grief in the past, as in squealing . . . . .

 

Nowadays I degrease new discs thoroughly, then roughen the surface with some decent sandpaper, and give the pads some hard work for starters . . . . . if the discs are not really thoroughly cleaned, the resultant glaze squeals like the devil, which means removing discs and pads and sanding off all surfaces.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Bedding in 1144's

 

30-0 - gentle braking

40-0 - gentle braking

50-0 - gentle braking

60-0 - gentle braking

70-0 - gentle braking

 

Allow to cool then bedded in!!

 

They need a quick bedding in unlike standard pads

 

Tom

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Well, assuming I may not have bedded them in exactly, can I rectify the problem or start from scratch again with either Hawk fast road or say Mintec 1109 improved standard? Loath to part with another £60 or £70 to get similar problems! Maybe Mintex 1109 @ around £25 is the preferable next route to see how they perform.

Cheers.

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Can I extend this post a bit by saying I have a loud sqeel from the drum shoes on the 4A.

They have done about 5000 miles and drums were new also. It happens at lighter pressures normally in traffic. Does shift jaywalkers though. Mot readings are fine and brakes do stop you ok with the fitted servo.

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Bedding in 1144's

 

30-0 - gentle braking

40-0 - gentle braking

50-0 - gentle braking

60-0 - gentle braking

70-0 - gentle braking

 

Allow to cool then bedded in!!

 

They need a quick bedding in unlike standard pads

 

Tom

Agree, that how i did mine (as soon as the escape from suburbia allowed) - but they still steel when hot again !

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Agree, that how i did mine (as soon as the escape from suburbia allowed) - but they still steel when hot again !

Hello McMuttley,

Have you tried this stick on material metal shim replacement? I think that is my next step after still getting squealing after taking the pads out, chamfering the leading edges & regreasing the shims & pins etc. If that fails then I am dumping the 1144 & trying standard pads again (Mintex 1109). Do not think it is the bedding in process as they were fine with no squealing for the first 300 miles or so. The standard pads gave me a trouble- free track day with no fade. Not too keen to spend another £70 to get a similar result!

Cheers.

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Hi Monty, I have bought some as mentioned in the other thread, but as yet haven't got around to fitting them !

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" which included the bedding in process of around 200 miles "

 

I'm not sure how you bed pads in for 200 miles . . . . . in my experience it needs not very long, as I've mentioned before . . . .

 

my preferred procedure for fast road/light competition pads would be accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10, again accelerate to 60, brake HARD down to 10 and repeat until you've done it a dozen times, then drive another few miles to let the brakes cool and then repeat the dozen hard brakings in rapid fire succession. Carry on driving whilst the brakes cool down again and you should find a significant difference thereafter. DO NOT brake to a halt, only down to 10mph or thereabouts - coming to a halt, foot on brake pedal, will not benefit new discs and pads !!

 

Cheers

 

Alec

Alec, assuming I may just revert back to standard pads (Mintex 1109) would your bedding in procedure be similar or a different approach?

Regards.

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Hi Monty,

 

I use the same procedure for whatever pads, not had a problem yet . . . . . unlike Tom, I don't like bringing the car to a halt, as in the possibility of cooking the new pads or discs.

 

I reckon bedding-in pads is a bit like cams, more than one way to skin a cat.

 

One problem I have encountered in the past - hard pads used gently, and tending to squeal as a result. Can't recall which spec/make of pad, too long ago, but gentle driving and they were all too prone to glaze over and then squeal . . . . . fine as long as you were driving hard, but not good for touring with granny in the passenger seat !

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Can I extend this post a bit by saying I have a loud sqeel from the drum shoes on the 4A.

They have done about 5000 miles and drums were new also. It happens at lighter pressures normally in traffic. Does shift jaywalkers though. Mot readings are fine and brakes do stop you ok with the fitted servo.

Chris, have you tried cleaning the dust out of the drums?

 

Pete

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Chris, have you tried cleaning the dust out of the drums?

 

Pete

Good point Pete & as part of my problems I took a look @ mine. Around 8000 miles covered & nothing dust wise to speak of!

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In most cases, bedding, chamfering, chiming and the like will not provide any cure to persistent squealing. Under humid climate - especially if the car is not used on daily basis- squealing is caused by a small deposit of rust being trapped between the disc and the brake pad. Unless the car is stored if perfectly dry conditions, there's no wa

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My brakes squeal, but mostly when I am going downhill. Very little if at all when going uphill to a junction.

 

Any good theories on this?

 

Dave

====

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