MRG1965 Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) Hi mark i havnt really done any adjusting on the pressure valve on puralator.i will remove the filter and see if it has filled up with oil Nige HI Just to say I had dangerously low oil pressure on my TR4 last year and had visions of a full engine rebuild, turned out to be the pressure regulator valve on the filter head, removed, cleaned (found nothing), refitted, now perfect, I suspected there was something trapped under the ball value, might be worth just taking it out to see if any oil is being pushed out, before cleaning and refitting. Also did you prime the pump with oil during the build, might be that the pump is dry and can't develop enough of a vacuume to lift the heavy oil up. Could try back filling the filter/pump through the pressure regulator hole. Mark Edited May 18, 2016 by MRG1965 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) Hi Mark I wont get chance to work on the tr untill the weekend but i will deffinately remove the oil filter to see if it has filled up. If that is not filled it could well be the filter head pressure valve.I will do what roger says first and ensure the shaft is in position in the pump.I think it was before but need to make sure to eliminate things.If the filter is not filling up to the top that would explain why no oil was coming past the thread for the pressure pipe.looking at the w/s manual when you put the shaft and drive gear back in it must line up with the tube at number 1 on cylinder head.when i tried this the other night several in fact more than that times it either lined up just before the tube or just after.could not quite get it to line up direct to the tube.Regards to the pump i checked this and it seems to be drawing oil up ok. Nige Edited May 18, 2016 by nigethomas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Well managed to spend an hour on car tonight.i removed the oil filter and was full of oil and removed rocker cover and oil found in there also.this must confirm that pump is working ok.does this now point to the oil way to the thread on oil pressure pipe maybe blocked.may have to remove housing and check this tomorrow Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 You did put the washers on the gauge take off in the right positions? The large one towards the block and the smaller one under the chrome nut. Maybe you have two small one fitted which woukd likely stop the gauge working. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 (edited) - nice one. Easy to get the banjo washers wrong way round. Roger Edited May 21, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi peejay/roger Yeah the washers were on in the correct sequence large at rear to allow oil to flow past.is it worth removing the stud rather than taking the whole housing off to check for any sealent blockage? Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hi Nige, remove the banjo and turn the engine over. Oil should come out very quickly. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Rog I did try that previously but nothing came out.this makes me think that the oil way is blocked to the thread Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Nige,having been there recently myself I would recommend pulling the housing off and checking that the small channel in the housing that allows the oil up to the stud & banjo is completely clear. In my case I'd managed to get a glob of sealer in there which was restricting flow to the gauge and when warm blocked it altogether. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Yeah will do that and see if any sealer is in there.will i be ok to use existing gasket again? Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 I didn't as I've got a stock of spares to go to but for the purpose of establishing if you've got oil pressure I don't see a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Well upon inspection of the oil filter housing everything seemed ok no blockages etc.when i removed the pressure relief valve screw in the housing i found the spring was missing out of it.could this be The reason no pressure being built up to the oil pressure pipe?i removed a bolt out of the oil gallery at side of block and oil was shooting out of there ok when turning over. Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 That'll be it. Without the spring the ball will lift straight off the seat and allow full low back to the suction side of the pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 I hope so drewmotty need to get this engine up and running so i can crack on with the rest of the restoration. Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Hi Nige, definitely the spring - it must be there to make it work. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Morning all, my spring came yesterday for the oil pressure relief valve so put that in its place. I only screwed the adjuster about halfway in though as not sure how far to go with it. I cranked engine over again and the gauge is now working.The pressure reading is showing between 30-35 on gauge.may have to wind the screw in a bit more on the valve.What should the oil pressure be reading when you are just turning the engine over and not starting it? Cheers Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 No idea I'm afraid, it will depend upon the oil used, temperature, speed of cranking. If there's a witness mark on the adjuster showing where it was screwed into when last used then I'd set it there and run the engine up to full working temperature and take it from there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Hi Nige, whenever I have cranked my cold engine with 20/50 Halfords Classic it comes up to 70 eventually. When the engine is running it doesn't want to be over 70 at say 3000 rpm This should give a tickover above 20/30pdi Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 +1 if you have 30-35 cranking with all the variables involved you have enough pressure to start it and see what you get, obviously on first start with cold engine, oil etc if you don't see +60 almost immediately then investigate further. Remember on cold cranking/starting all pressure really tells you is how thick and gloopy the oil is and how badly it is managing to get out of the oil galley to the places that really need it! Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 ok thanks guys Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) Nige, If the relief valve is not screwed in far enough you may still only see 35 psi on the gauge. Screw it in further and try again. It is not particularly sensitive to a couple of turns. When it reads over 70 you have gone too far, irrespective of oil temperature, so back off until you get 60/65. That is then the correct setting, and it should never exceed that figure again. As has been stated, none of this should harm the engine at low revs, so you can play about with the valve until you have it right and then clamp it down. Test again afterwards, as a worn clamp can still change that setting. One last and minor point. If you subsequently get a variable reading, the little ball bearing in the relief valve may be suspect. Continuous use in one position can wear them out of round, although the spring itself is more liable to this as Pete Cox told me himself. Anyone reading this with any doubts should take a look at their spring - all bright and shiny on one side only can lead to problems. Having taken it out, it will probably not go back in the same position so real skinflints can save themselves a couple of pennies! Brilliant to read this thread and remind myself what the Forum and the Club is all about. Edited May 25, 2016 by Paul Harvey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted May 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Hi Paul, Yes i was thinking that i may have to screw the valve in further.The trouble with my engine rebuild is that i have started from scratch as the vehicle never came with engine.Having sourced a block and head and all the rest of the parts that were required.For example the oil filter housing which was a used one i have no history of it as of several other parts.Im slowly getting there just so frustrating at times.The forum is probably the best thing ive come across with so much experience from so many people.Im still a long way off on the restoration but getting the mechanicals all sorted has been a long process.Just hope the bugger fires up with no issues Cheers Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Morning everyone, Just to let you know i had my engine up and running for first time last night.Will need all setting up though but sounds awesome.May need to get a tr4a cross box rear silencer fitted though.At present it sounds bit to loud. Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 ...a bit too loud..... Don't be silly. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigethomas Posted June 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Ha Ha seriuosly Roger it is loud.Ive had to modify the system as the engine i have fitted is Tr3.Had to use Tr3 downpipe with 4a centre section which is straight through.I have fitted standard back box from Tr3.The system for the 3 usually has centre silencer as well but obviously would not fit mine. Nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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