Two 4A questions..

[dpb]

Hi

 

Just fettling around trying to make things better/easier.

 

Question 1. Has anybody put the mainbeam switch on the dash anywhere? I find the foot-switch a bit clumsy, and also quite hard to find when in a hurry.

 

 

Question 2. Probably mainly for Roger H if he is reading this. I seem to recall he had fixed bolts in the surrey soft top at the rear that drop down into the holes and then get thumbscrews (wing nuts or something) to tighten them up. Is this right?. Mine is a right piglet to get fitted as it is.

 

 

Cheers

Dave

===

[RogerH]

Hi Dave,

I believe PeeJay4A has the fixed studs in the rear - with thumb screws.

I use screw in bent rods (apprx 4" long) that help align/position the rear rail and then the rods are removed and the usual screws are fited.

Couple more operations but easy enough.

 

Regarding the main beam switch some members have used a different column light switch but haven't got any details.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

That would be me with the studs in the rear Surrey bar. I needed to get stepped ones - 5/16" to 1/4" (I think, or that might be on the hard top where I also have studs at the back) then I use Mini rocker cover T nuts and the rubber sealing washers from the inside. Much less rain down your neck when you're putting the thing on in the British summer.

Edited May 5, 2016 by peejay4A

[dpb]

Thanks chaps.

 

I think I'll try Pete's solution.

 

Regarding the dipswitch, I see some have wired up a left-hand overdrive switch to operate a relay then the lights. Sounds good, Not sure if there is room to fit a left-hand od switch on the column, when I already have a right hand od switch fitted. A little investigation required.

 

Thanks

Dave

====

[Grahamgl]

Dave,

I changed my foot dip/main beam floor switch to a column mounted overdive switch for a left hand drive car. It is fitted on the left hand side of the steering column using a light switch/overdrive escutcheon (Moss part number 611974), I fitted the controlling relay at the base of the steering column. I seem to remember that there was an article in TRAction which explained how to do it.

Graham.

[dpb]

Thanks Graham. I'll have a go at that I think. There currently (get it) no relay, so I'm guessing I don't need one just to get them to work, unless the od switch wiring is not up to it? I was going to fit relays for various items later in the year, so might bring it forward.

 

Cheers

Dave

====

[Grahamgl]

Dave,

The relay I referred to is one to switch between dipped and main beam. The lights on my car have seperate relays. I will see if I can find the article in TRAction.

Graham

[Geko]

I've made my own bolt-on knobs. The one above on the pic goes on the rear

 

 

[tim hunt]

Dave, I decided the foot dip switch had to go soon after acquiring our 4A. I fitted a robust two position on/on toggle switch in a bracket just below the dash to the right of the steering column. In this position the existing wires to the foot dipper will reach the new switch. A rubber extension over the toggle allows the switch to be operated by a finger without the right hand being removed from the steering wheel. I have had this set up for over 40 years and it is still going strong. A later mod was to add relays for dip and main beams to protect the column light switch and provide more volts to the headlights.

 

I also have 5/16" NF studs welded in the rear fixings of my hard top. Makes it much easier to locate and secure. I have seen this mod on several cars now.

 

Tim

[stuartmac]

These work well with studs, I've since removed the "stem" so they now fit just about flush in the recess

[dpb]

Tim.

 

I like the idea of the toggle. I might try that as a quick solution. The existing foot switch is just a switch isn't it, not a relay of some sort?

 

I too want to fit relays for the lamps (see current cibie topic in the Technical chat forum) but will put that off for a little while.

 

Stuart,are those a purchase from somewhere or have you made them up yourself?

 

Dave

====

[RogerH]

Hi Dave,

regarding the dip switch - whatever you use to replace it you will need something to handle 10amps + - probably nearer 15 to 20 amps.

If you do go for the OD column switch (very neat solution) then you will defo need a relay to carry the current.

 

 

Roger

[stuartmac]

Moss do them at £9.20 / pair - which is far cheaper than I remember them being previously!

[tim hunt]

Spot on Roger, my toggle switch is rated at 18amps, it is identical to item #TSPA2 in the Car Builder Solutions catalogue. I do like the idea of a second overdrive switch mounted on a suitable escutcheon and wish I had thought of that 40 odd years ago - too late for me to change now though.

 

Stuartmac, your rear hard top fixing solution is very neat but IMHO it is not possible to exert sufficient torque with a thumb screw or wing nut to hold the panel firmly in place. I use well tightened dome-headed nuts and cover these with suitable pieces

of thick walled rubber tubing to protect my head. A well tightened roof panel contributes to torsional stiffness as does the fascia support bracket of course. I have always preferred the handling of my car with the roof panel fitted and no, there's nothing wrong with my chassis!

 

Tim

[stuartmac]

Depends how strong your thumbs are!

I can tighten the nuts to the point of fully compressing the seal so that the metal "upstand" around the stud of the roof panel contacts with the metal of the backlight.

- but choose to leave a couple of mm gap - any tighter and you just start to bend things. Palm pressure on the roof while you tighten the nut makes it all very easy

[peejay4A]

I used the knurled Mini valve cover tube nuts to begin with but now I use the T bar variant which allows more tightening effort. I don't worry about hitting my head on them as my neck won't bend back that far. At the front, on the hard top, I still use the original chrome bolts as they're easy to align.

Edited May 7, 2016 by peejay4A

[RogerH]

Hi Pete,

don;t under estimate the power in a rear end shunt. Recessed nuts, sponge, crash helmet and leave the car in the garage should sort it.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

[Robin Powell]

Hi Pete

 

I did an article for TRaction using a polarised relay and the headlamp flasher on the existing stalk see attached.

Column Dipswitch for TR4A.doc

[dpb]

Dave,

I changed my foot dip/main beam floor switch to a column mounted overdive switch for a left hand drive car. It is fitted on the left hand side of the steering column using a light switch/overdrive escutcheon (Moss part number 611974), I fitted the controlling relay at the base of the steering column. I seem to remember that there was an article in TRAction which explained how to do it.

Graham.

 

Hi Graham

 

I don't suppose you have the wiring diagram for that modification do you? I'm trying to figure out how the o/d switch could work, as it is either open or closed, while the footdipswitch is either working (closed) in one position or the other.

 

I don't think it is the same as the article written by Robin, above, which doesn't use an extra overdrive switch.

 

Regards

Dave

====

[dpb]

Graham!

 

A bit of googling and site searching has found an image of the article you mention, previously posted by you on the TR6 forum.

 

Thank you.

Dave

====

[Grahamgl]

Hi Dave,

i found the article yesterday evening but couldn't get my printer to scan. Glad you found my previous posting.

I think the alteration to the dip function works well.

Another thing worth doing is to make and fit an overdrive controller. Hugo Holden did an article in TRAction some time ago with a design for one using period items. simple and cheap to make.here is a link to his website http://www.worldphaco.net/uploads/OLUTRCARS.pdf. It works well.

Graham

[dpb]

Hi Graham.

 

I will be fitting the o/d /main beam switch. Just getting all the parts together.

The overdrive mod suggested above also looks worth investigating.

 

Cheers

Dave

====

[RogerH]

Hi Graham,

Dr,Hugo's controller employs the original OD column switch.

So when the GB switch drop out you need to turn off the column switch to consider re-selecting OD.

 

I've knocked up a simple 2x relay device that uses an Off momentary On- Off switch (In fact I use a press button rather than atogle switch).

I'll try and stick the circuit on here.

 

Roger

[peejay4A]

I've had Hugo's device working on Eric for quite a while. Having to toggle the switch off then back on when you want od after you've forgotten to disengage it isn't a problem.

Edited May 11, 2016 by peejay4A