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hi gang, i had an engine rebuilt late last year and just started fitting as been too busy, anyway, i had (rightly or wrongly) a spin off oil filter conversion, I'm struggling to find an appropriate hole for the oil pressure pipe from the dashboard gauge, any help greatly appreciated, 1965 tr4a,

many thanks

ol boys

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I'm struggling to fully understand your question ol b (do you have a name?). Do you mean the hole in the firewall through which the pipe passes or do you mean how does the pipe connect to the engine block? Assuming you have a TR4 or 4A the pipe connects to the lower forward stud of the oil filter head via a banjo and a length of copper pipe. The spin on conversion shouldn't change the connection arrangement, it doesn't on mine.

Edited by peejay4A
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I'm struggling to fully understand your question ol b (do you have a name?). Do you mean the hole in the firewall through which the pipe passes or do you mean how does the pipe connect to the engine block? Assuming you have a TR4 or 4A the pipe connects to the lower forward stud of the oil filter head via a banjo and a length of copper pipe. The spin on conversion shouldn't change the connection arrangement, it doesn't on mine.

. Thanks Pete, much help,
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I'm struggling to fully understand your question ol b (do you have a name?). Do you mean the hole in the firewall through which the pipe passes or do you mean how does the pipe connect to the engine block? Assuming you have a TR4 or 4A the pipe connects to the lower forward stud of the oil filter head via a banjo and a length of copper pipe. The spin on conversion shouldn't change the connection arrangement, it doesn't on mine.

. I have it now, the banjo goes over the stud , I was looking for a hole in the stud, but it puthers up the thread apparently
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Talking of oil pressure tubing, when I rebuilt my Mk1 Mini I had an interesting fault which may or may not be helpful.

 

When I first started the engine after a rebuild - no oil pressure on the guage, so I took the rocker cover off and there was oil present at the tappets, but still wasn't sure how much pressure there was.

 

So I then primed the tube to the guage by squirting oil down the rubber tubing. Started up- no oil pressure. So I disconnected the black flexible tubing and blew an airline down it, still no pressure on the guage. Ah! faulty guage said my mate Colin. So we tried another guage- no pressure.

 

Colin then had the bright idea of disconnecting the union at the front of the block and running the engine to bleed any air in the galleys.

Started the engine and a jet of oil spurted out of the block and straight through the grille - Completely soaking my best trousers!

 

After returning to the job in a pair of old jeans, we reconnected the union and no pressure at the guage. There was only one component left that hadn't been checked, being the short brass tube bolted to the block which connects the two rubber pipes, an NOS Leyland part with label still attached. For some reason it was blocked solid, so I threaded a piece of mig wire through it, refitted it, and Bingo 70psi.

 

I think the moral of the story is DONT do what your mate says, and DONT wear decent trousers when testing for oil pressure!

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. I have it now, the banjo goes over the stud , I was looking for a hole in the stud, but it puthers up the thread apparently

Correct. It's important to get the two copper washers in the correct order. The larger one goes engine side of the banjo.

Edited by peejay4A
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Correct. It's important to get the two copper washers in the correct order. The larger one goes engine side of the ban

 

I'm struggling to fully understand your question ol b (do you have a name?). Do you mean the hole in the firewall through which the pipe passes or do you mean how does the pipe connect to the engine block? Assuming you have a TR4 or 4A the pipe connects to the lower forward stud of the oil filter head via a banjo and a length of copper pipe. The spin on conversion shouldn't change the connection arrangement, it doesn't on mine.

hi , should the stud have a dome nut ??

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Correct. It's important to get the two copper washers in the correct order. The larger one goes engine side of the ban

 

I'm struggling to fully understand your question ol b (do you have a name?). Do you mean the hole in the firewall through which the pipe passes or do you mean how does the pipe connect to the engine block? Assuming you have a TR4 or 4A the pipe connects to the lower forward stud of the oil filter head via a banjo and a length of copper pipe. The spin on conversion shouldn't change the connection arrangement, it doesn't on mine.

hi , should the stud have a dome nut ??

 

 

Yes, it should be a domed nut.

 

Graeme

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