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High Tension leads


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Hi All

 

I am changing the distributor cap on my TR4A from side to top entry - I don't like the "stab the HT lead" method used for retention with the side entry type especially with the caps you buy new now that don't have a proper screw to hold the cable.

 

There is obviously a bonnet clearance issue, does anyone have experience of whether this is a serious problem - should I seek out a lead set with right angle connectors at the cap end?

 

Thanks

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Why dont you get a proper distributor cap from Martin Jay (Distributor Doctor) then you can use the side exit leads, while you are at it get a proper Red rotor arm from him as well to save problems later.http://www.distributordoctor.com/

FWIW there isnt clearance problems with top entry leads but it just looks wrong.

Stuart.

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FWIW there isnt clearance problems with top entry leads but it just looks wrong.

Stuart.

 

Almost as bad as the look of the typical alternator.

 

(Getting me coat, running for cover)

 

AlanR

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Hi All

 

Thanks for your comments, I do in fact have a distributor rebuilt by “the distributor doctor” a couple of years ago it is fitted with red rotor arm and electronic ignition module. The issue I have is with the cap. It all began last week when out for a run the engine started to run very rough, easily diagnosed with the bonnet open as one plug lead having come out of the distributor. The problem was that I could not get the lead back in as the screw that holds it had seized in the aluminium and before long the screwdriver slot was destroyed trying. I limped home on 3 cyls – not too far luckily.

 

The cap was fitted new a couple of years ago, a comparison with a genuine period Lucas part (I never throw anything away) was revealing. The new cap used a standard grub screw (3.8 mm dia, probably M4) for holding the HT lead in and making contact. The Lucas screw was machined with a small diameter point (2.7mm dia) to pierce the cable and was also relieved behind the point. It also (unlike the new one) had a head so that it screwed up solid and was plated to prevent corrosion.

 

The original Lucas part is clearly far superior for the following reasons

  1. The narrower point does not weaken the cable as much
  2. The insulation material would flow into the relieved diameter behind the point and help to lock the screw in place.
  3. The head on the screw allows it to be tightened up properly rather than with the new grub screw version relying on the person fitting the lead guessing whether it was screwed far enough in against the lead insulation. In this case I was the installer, I noted the issue at the time and tried to do it by counting numbers of turns I seems like I got it wrong.
  4. The plating should overcome the seized screw issue, in fact the old cap I had was from the sixties been kept in a damp garage for the last twenty years, and came apart no problem although the terminals were brass.

I did consider getting a batch of screws made to the Lucas design to fit new caps but decided that was a bit OTT, that’s why I thought of going down the top entry route.

 

I long story for a tiny part but I thought I would share my thoughts.

 

 

 

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If its one of Martins caps then a quick call to him will Im sure sort out your problem, he is very helpful like that.

Stuart.

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Hi all:

 

The cap is not one of Martin's, in fact I'm very pleased with the rebuild he did on the distributor, it transformed the car. I'll keep looking for a solution.

Solution is contact Martin and see if he can help.

Stuart.

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