Driveshafts

[JFerg]

My 1965 4A probably has the original driveshafts still fitted. It's been my daily driver for 12 years, having spent the previous 22 years with one owner who only managed 1600 miles. It clonks and bumps a bit at the rear, but I'm used to that now.

 

I'm about to replace the rear wheel bearings, and so am starting to think about replacing the drive shafts too. Question is, what with? I've heard mention of up-rated shafts with CV joints rather than unis, I've heard of modified Nissan/Datsun (180B??) shafts, while both Remington and Rimmer list few options.

 

The car is my daily driver, straight, unmodified, still has the lever arm shocks, and I'm happy with it. I don't race it, but do like to drive in a sportsman-like manner. I want reliable, practical and safe for optimum spend.

 

What's the consensus of opinion?

 

thanks,

 

JFerg

Oz.

[TriumphV8]

The original driveshafts are designed for the TR4A.

From that they can withstand the forces especially when driven not too hard.

What is left is the risk with loosing a wheel from a crack.

 

So this is indeed a good point to think about a swap to CV joints or refurbish the old.

 

I would go for CV axles and take them from Goodparts or CDD

(http://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/page.asp?pID=31)

 

This is my driveshaft made mainly from VW Golf GTI parts

It was the only solution to withstand the V8 power

 

[Motorsport Mickey]

As Andreas says the main fallibility on the IRS cars is not so much the rear driveshaft "clonking" but the stresses put upon the rear hubs. We've had instances of cars losing rear wheels through rear hub failure and in this component don't think that a "reconditioned" hub helps, in fact the original hubs may be less likely to have a problem. The stresses imposed by application of a 20 ton press to split the hubs also can possibly cause a stress fracture that only shows itself afterwards, in use ! You may think your hubs have never been "reconditioned" but on a 50 year plus old car who knows what previous owners have done.

 

There has been a similar thread running on the Stag forum which of course shares the rear IRS design features, here's a couple of pictures from that attached. Note these are separate incidents and there are others.

 

The choice of driveshaft whether of original design or "Rilsan" coated are sound decisions, or even replacing the driveshafts with Datsun 180B CV shafts ( now very rare in the UK, I found probably the last set last year and "donated" them to another Stag owner) or Nissan 240/280 items. But this comes with additional work to machine and change the flanges and use "hybrid" UJs. The costs to find and import suitable Nissan items (these are now becoming short of availability in the UK) from the US will be something of the order of £300 when import duties and VAT are applied, the further modifying of the shafts to fit will cost maybe another £200-300 (on a Stag anyway) depending upon whats needed.

 

The fitment of new hubs with improved design and new quality bearings will surely pay long term dividends and if your choice is to attach the CV driveshafts the clonks will be consigned to memories. There are a number of CV shaft suppliers offering sometimes similar items, however MOST important that care is taken when fitting CV shafts and that in normal operation their operating range does not exceed the CV shaft closed-fully extended range, otherwise damage will be caused (this is reported on the Stag forum). This also applies to working upon the car with the rear wheels hanging unsupported and disconnected from the restraining influence of the rear shock absorber. If you wish to work like this my recommendation would be to release the inner end of the driveshaft from the diff by undoing the 4 bolts BEFORE the shock absorber is disconnected. Also of course if a telescopic shock absorber has been substituted care should be taken that it's possibly greater operating range again doesn't again compromise the CV shaft operating range.

 

Mick Richards

Edited June 6, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey

[Graham]

Hi I'm guessing that being in Aus you will end up importing whatever solution you finally decide on. I looked at the Classic driving developments CV jointed drive shafts http://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.asp?cID=4&carID=3 andthe Goodparts (USA)solution https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=16 , the Goodparts solution offers the potential to fit a viscous LSD as well, the only thing that put me off was the cost of shipping to uk . Might be worth a look anyway I'm sure there will be many opinions on the 'best' solution.

 

ATB Graham

[Mark1965TR4aBRG]

...a rear hub failure is my biggest fear and I too plan to upgrade if only I could decide what the best system is..

 

I looked at the CV type and was concerned about the range of movement they offer - what is a more robust solution that offers a modern uprated hub with the necessary vertical travel?

[Motorsport Mickey]

Mark,

 

There is no more robust solution.

 

Whether you can buy the new hubs from CDD (other suppliers I think are available also) and then marry them up to standard or Rilsan driveshafts hence getting whatever vertical travel you deem necessary is I don't know.

However the possibility of a CV driveshaft failing when set up and used correctly is I think unlikely, it's the expanding of the driveshaft beyond it's operating parameters that could cause a problem. That's down to fitting it correctly with stops to ensure it's range isn't exceeded (therefore still allowing "Dukes of Hazard" jumps) or allowing the wheels to droop unsupported with the shock absorber disconnected which allows the wheel to drop further than designed and over extend the driveshaft. Although unbolting the driveshaft from the diff first prevents the CV driveshaft being overextended if you really must disconnect the shock absorber with the rear wheels unsupported.

 

Mick Richards

Edited April 14, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey

[stuart]

You could use these.http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumphs-c56/tr4a-c8/tr4a-axle-and-differential-c105/racetorations-fast-road-race-hub-and-competition-driveshaft-assembly-p243

You wont break them.

Stuart.

[Mark1965TR4aBRG]

You could use these.http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumphs-c56/tr4a-c8/tr4a-axle-and-differential-c105/racetorations-fast-road-race-hub-and-competition-driveshaft-assembly-p243

You wont break them.

Stuart.

 

They do look the business.....

[kob666e]

 

They do look the business.....

+1

 

I went with the CDD CV jointed UR hubs and shafts and I am very happy with them and Alasdair's service. I'm a lot more confident that my rear wheels are less likely to overtake me now. Had a set of new shafts and recon hubs that didn't last long and felt there was no point in going the same route again.

[JFerg]

Great response, thank you all.

I will suck a lot of air through my teeth then place an order with CDD.

 

cheers,

JFerg

[JFerg]

Order confirmed with CDD, and I have to say that the vibe is good; friendly, prompt, sensible replies from Alasdair.

 

Three weeks plus shipping, so I should have the new shafts late May.

 

JFerg

[JFerg]

Ok, so the three weeks blew out to five, but Alasdair did warn me when the delay occurred in deliver of some element to him. His service has been very good, his communication likewise, and the product looks good; well made, well finished, well packed.

 

Now I just have to stick 'em in!

 

JFerg