JFerg Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 OK, I'm sure that I'm not the first to ask this, but how do I put the full 1.6 litres of oil into the gearbox? My 4A has overdrive, and according to the manual takes 1.6 litres on a drain and re-fill. So I pump oil in through the filler/inspection plug in the side, but I can only get a litre in before it floods out. From the manual I see that there's a plug in the top of the box, but to get to that the seats and carpet have to come out. Surely I am missing something. thanks in advance. JFerg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Hi Put in as much as you can. Refit plug and run the GB for a few minutes. Then top up. It may take a couple of goes. The oil has to fill various parts of the OD that would defy gravity. There shouldn't be a top filler point. That is probably a blanked off inhibit switch. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 A tip given recently by a well respected Triumph man, was to jack up the car on the left side and MAKE SURE you get the full amount in. I'm pretty sure my manual said 2 litres with O/D, but it may be a different overdrive to yours. Also, I had previously made the mistake of only draining the gearbox, and not the o/d as well. This will restrict the amount you can get back in! Same person said to make sure you drain both. regards Dave === Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JFerg Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Jacked up the left side as per Dave's suggestion and pumped in the requisite 1.6 litres. At about 1.65 it over-flowed, so that's all good. Thanks. JFerg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 After a short run put car on level surface and open the filler plug - let any excess escape. Too much could possibly worse than too little. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swood1 Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Out of interest what is the forum recommended oil for a gearbox? Can you use the same oil in the differential? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 I think the "averaged " advice from all previous answers to this question is Penrite 40 gearbox oil. No. The axle needs a heavier oil - EP 80 or EP 90. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Hi Steve, get ready for the avalanche of answers. The gearbox and diff lead very different lives. The diff requires an oil that can stand the pressure of the hypoid gears sliding over each other - it really is quite special. it is an EP (extreme Pressure) oil and usually contains some nasties. The GB or OD lead a slightly less strenuous life. Things tend to spin and glide and run over each other. So the oil is designed to help this along. Because it is not an EP environment you don;t need all the nasty bits in the oil. Also there is a lot of brass type material used in the gearbox that some (GL5) diff oils attack. I use and would recommend gearbox oil (both Penrite and Miller do a good selection). Penrite GB40 works very well in GB and OD and is about equivalent to a 20/50 oil. Some people use a much thicker oil 80 or 90 grade but I would steer clear of EP oils - whatever it is make sure it is a GL4 rate oil. However I would not use a 20/50 engine oil as the inbuilt detergents may cause frothing and upset the OD accumulator. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 EP90 GL4 works well in ODGB and diff for me. Cold or hot. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malcolm Tatton Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Maybe I should have shouted it before, (or maybe I am wrong) BUT the viscosity of EP90 is not much different from 20/50. One is not thicker or heavier or lighter, they are just different specs. http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJK Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Looks like I've dropped a proverbial b----ck today. Changed GB oil on my TR5 and put in a GL5 spec 80W-90 and really glad I've picked up this thread. Should I should change it again PDQ and replace with a GL4 spec? If so, should I flush it out with something before refilling with the new oil. And a slightly more trivial query (but a real pain), I can't undo the diff filler, where can I get a 7/16" square socket from (a spanner isn't working!!!)? I can't find one on www. Many thanks, Malcolm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marko Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 I would not use anything other than GL4 in your TR gearboxes - anything other than GL4 and you will have trouble guaranteed....that's come from someone who has been rebuilding TR gearboxes for the last 40+ years (not me ).... and has made a living out of repairing other people's proverbial dropped bollox Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Looks like I've dropped a proverbial b----ck today. Changed GB oil on my TR5 and put in a GL5 spec 80W-90 and really glad I've picked up this thread. Should I should change it again PDQ and replace with a GL4 spec? If so, should I flush it out with something before refilling with the new oil. And a slightly more trivial query (but a real pain), I can't undo the diff filler, where can I get a 7/16" square socket from (a spanner isn't working!!!)? I can't find one on www. Many thanks, Malcolm Do a search for 8 point socket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Hi Malcolm, I wouldn't panic. Drain out the GL5 and replace with a good GL4 GEARBOX oil. Penrite and Miller do a good range of quality oils. I prefer the thinner Penrite GB40. GL5 oil contains 'stuff' including sulphur. This attacks the surface of yellow metal. This surface is then easily removed by contact but is then replaced with more sulphur attack. It goes on until the yellow metal becomes transparent metal. The small amount of sulphur left after a change to GL4 will be quickly used up and then the process will stop. You have probably lost a couple of microns. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 I used a pipe wrench on stuck square filler and drain plugs. Then I replaced them with either allen key ones or hex head ones. I also put gl5 in by mistake. I'll be changing it soonish. Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Allan Westbury Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 If you are not too worried about originality then i have had a 1/2" AF bolt head welded to the top of the filler plug. Problem solved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJK Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Thanks for the excellent feedback, I've drained the GL5 from the GB and await the Millers from Opie Oils to replace it and I've managed to find a 8 point socket to try and get into the diff. So, this time, I'm making steady progress!!! Like so many things, the devil is in the detail. Thanks again, Malcolm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Many years ago I bought a drain plug spanner, that has a few 'male' squares on one end, and the other end has a square hole 9/16" across at one end of the hole, 7/16" at the other. The maker's name looks like Melco, but is on a decal, mostly worn away. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJK Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Thanks Pete. The Melco name still exists but I cannot find (as yet) their square spanners - just hexagonal box spanners. I'll keep looking, all suggestions are appreciated. Regards, Malcolm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 In September 2015, I posted this on the Forum: There is a purpose-made spanner with identifier ARE001T. This is a beefy piece of steel with, at one end, the correct, square socket for drain/filler plugs, and the other end has a square socket for brake adjuster. I was presented with such a spanner by Tony Sheach when we ran the Basic Maintenance seminar at the 2013 IWE. I don't know the manufacturer as there's no identifier and I haven't managed to find anything via Google. However, Brian Chidwick found this on eBay - it looks very much like the tool which Tony gave me and it's not expensive http://www.ebay.fr/i...=item567b719102 If it works on those Triumphs (and the photo shows the taper plug we all know and love!), it must work on TRs, too. . Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Priest Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 Moss do a 'Triumph Wrench' with a drain plug square at one end and brake adjuster at the other. It is an eye watering £14 though!! http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-tools/special-tools/triumph-tools/triumph-wrench-386-190.html Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJK Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Ian/Steve, many thanks. It looks like the spanner Ian describes with the ID ARE001T is the Moss spanner that Steve has highlighted. It also looks like the Moss spanner is slightly angled at the ends making it easier to get some leverage. I'm having problems with the diff plug (It's really seized) and don't want to remove the exhaust unless I really have to. Do we think that both spanners should do the job or should I favour one over the other? I will probably put cost to one side and go with the one that's easiest to use!!! Thanks, Malcolm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Get an 8 point socket and you won't use anything else again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 My local ATS have always been really helpful, for the price of a drink they put it on the ramp and top up the diff. Cheers Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MJK Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Nigel, That's how I got into the gearbox, I'm trying to be self sufficient!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.