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Heater valve issue


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Hi all,

 

I need a bit of advice or guidance on a self inflicted problem please. I have the engine and box out to do a few jobs and in separating the engine from the box the engine tilted and fell to one side, only onto carpet tiles, old ones but better than concrete. As a consequence, the heater valve hit the deck first and sheared off flush with the steel 90 degree elbow in the head, actually just inside it!! As I can't unscrew this elbow to put it in the vice, it hits the nut and stud on the corner of the head, I am going to have the get the remaining threaded portion out in situ.

 

My options are limited but I think they are either drill out the remaining as close to the thread as possible and then using a small "pointy thing" to hook out the residual and run a tap through, or to use a junior hacksaw blade and saw through the thread in a couple of places, and break it out. Either way, I am concious of having swarf dropping into the cooling system.

 

Has anyone experienced this problem, or got any better ideas on removing this threaded portion of the valve.

 

Many thanks in anticipation for any replies

 

Andy C.

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Hi Andy,

you can do as you say. If you stuff some rag/paper down the hole before you start drill and vacuum afterwards you should get all the swarf out.

 

Or, why not remove the elbow - remove the head nut. I would have thought the stud would be clear.

 

And then fit one of these - http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Everco-Heater-Control-Valve/_/N-91sh0?itemIdentifier=135681&_requestid=7124741

 

Roger

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Interesting Roger.

The standard valve is annoying as its an all or nothing and in any case is likely not to really shut unless operated directly by hand.

So I was thinking that these problems could possibly be alleviated by moving the cable end fixing on the valve further out (away from the centre of the valve) thus giving a better mechanical advantage.

Thoughts?

 

Mike

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Hi Mike,

if you extend the operating arm then you will need more length on the cable/knob - not sure if the dash board end will allow this.

 

The original valve just simply needs throwing away.

The one above is excellent if you can get it (none in the UK).

The Revington one has the same body as above but does not connect direct into the head - bit of a bodge to me.

 

I made my own from a plumbing service valve that works perfectly.

 

Roger

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  • 2 months later...

Hi All,

Does anyone have a nice elegant way of fastening the existing temp control-cable to the pin of the movable arm of these replacement valves?

 

thanks, Andy

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Hi Roger.

 

I was driving around in the sun today, and I couldn't get the heater valve to shut properly, and I thought "I must look up that valve Roger always mentions", and lo and behold this thread was open again.

 

Does that new valve screw directly into the existing opening, or do I need various adaptors?

 

Regards

Dave

====

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Hi All,

Does anyone have a nice elegant way of fastening the existing temp control-cable to the pin of the movable arm of these replacement valves?

 

thanks, Andy

Use a pair of snipe nose pliers to form a loop in the end of the cable. No other fixing necessary once the outer is clamped.

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post-9073-0-92438500-1463855225_thumb.jpgpost-9073-0-92438500-1463855225_thumb.jpg Andy, hope the attached pics help. I found a piece of aluminium rod in my junk, drilled and tapped one end to take a set screw to lock on to the heater cable and drilled a hole to sit on the pin. The gizmo rotates nicely on the pin when the control is operated and since the cable sheath is securely clamped it cpost-9073-0-23432400-1463855204_thumb.jpgan never ride up and off the pin. Works fine. I bought my valve from an Autozone store when last in the US, Feb 2015, it was $24.83 - might be a little more now.

 

Tim

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Hi Pete and Tim,

thanks for the replies and pictures - the kind of fastening i had in mind was like Tim's one, i thought people may have found a ready-made one rather than something i make up from odds and ends - but that looks a nice solution.

 

I didn't think that the cable would stay wrapped around the pin on its own - however it is only the last 2-3 inches which actually moves so i may try the simple approach first!

 

Prices have gone up a little - mine was $49 from AutoZone last week while i was on holiday in the US, it was delivered to my hotel for free though :)

 

thanks, Andy

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I have seen these on eBayUK... same sort of price in $ but an additional $16 for international shipping. Search for "Four Seasons 74648 Heater Valve"

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Pete's way is certainly quickest and simplest. The only possible drawback I see is that you have only one chance to get the inner cable length just right. My way you can fine tune it to give full valve movement, just as with the original trunnion arrangement.

 

Tim

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought one of Roger's recommended valves from the US. Cost about £30, arrived pretty quickly. Fitted it yesterday, took about 5 minutes, using the Pete pliers method. It opens and closes properly with no effort. Excellent.

Dave

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