Jump to content

3/8 UNC to 3/8 UNF Studs


Recommended Posts

The issue isn't differential expansion, its that stainless nuts on stainless studs can cold-weld together. Are the K nuts stainless? Why use them instead of brass?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't assume that stainless steel is unable to rust. All that happens is that a surface coat develops that protects it.

 

This may not work in the environment of a manifold. To stand a chance you will need to select a suitable grade. There are lots of course.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

 

Yes, available space with weber manifolds is limited

to say the least.

I had some new canon manifolds, and by the time

the manifolds had been ground out to allow space

for the nuts - the manifold was perforated.

 

Period manifolds seem to allow a bit more space, but

where do you find them? I did - but it took a long time

searching and eventually I got lucky.

 

You also need to grind down a quality ring spanner

to make a special that will just slip on. It will also

help to shorten the studs slightly.

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
Link to post
Share on other sites

Use brass nuts on the manifolds with some copperslip and decent spring washers, standard steel studs are fine , I had to grind down the flanges on my TT manifolds to match the SAH type 4 branch and it all fits fine and has been for some considerable time. More important for Weber/Dellorto fitting is the "Rock" setting of the carbs to prevent frothing.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
Link to post
Share on other sites

TRGB to the rescue with the UNC to UNF studs - I particularly wanted to use the K nuts - probably easier to get a spanner on them.

 

I've fettled both the Phoenix and inlet manifolds (mine is a Bastuck from Mass) to clear each other.

 

Can you elaborate on the "rock setting" please Stuart. I have the anti vibration washers and the misab spacer plates and need to thread lock the UNF grub screws in to the Bastucks to then mount the Webers.

 

I need to modify the clamps now as I've 1mm difference in the flange thicknesses - I love all this fiddling - who'd have a modern car where it just bolts on!!!

 

As for the linkage and air box - one thing at a time..

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you say "Anti-vibration washers" what type have you got? Inlet manifolds should have standard studs in then 5/16" UNC/UNF

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.