Fitting new lower crashpads

[smyllie]

I am now tackling the dashboard on my project. Have fitted new top crashpad & pleased with the result. I have new LH & RH lower crashpads to fit but not quite sure the correct fixing of the lower unfinished trim.

 

I am not sure if the lower section of unfinished trim folds up onto the inner surface of the crashpad itself (i.e will get sandwiched) the crashpad and the dashboard) or does it fold up under the dashboard and then glued to the underside of the dash.

 

I have no reference as these items were completely disintegrated when I purchased the car, if anyone can help or post any pics of the lower crashpad from underneath or from the side I would be grateful.

 

Thanks

 

Bob

[TR 2100]

Edit - on reflection, not so sure.

May be better to glue underneath the vent area.

Repros may not fit as well as originals.

 

AlanR

Edited January 31, 2016 by TR 2100

[gmw]

Hi Bob,

 

I am a newby to the TR world......but happy to be learning whilst diving head first into things.

 

I am part way through dash / interior refurbishment at moment, and have all of dash out at moment.

Dash is off being painted back to original white colour.

 

Attached here is a pic of the lower passenger side crashpad.

The crashpad on my 1962 TR4 bolts directly to the dash fascia - and you can see the studs protruding from the crashpad.

Four of these studs on the passenger side are used for glovebox hinge brackets also.

 

Not sure if this helps at all.........or if repro parts are completely different.

 

Regards,

Grant.

 

 

[peejay4A]

I used no glue on mine, just the fixing studs.

[stuart]

The main pad just bolts on, the flap section at each end can be glued where it goes round the rear edge of the dash.

Stuart.

Edited February 1, 2016 by stuart

[smyllie]

Gents, thank you for your help. It looks like I should be able to fit the lower crashpads and finish the side flaps prior to installing the dash. As with Grant, I have a white dashboard.

[TR4A1965]

Hi Bob

 

You can take a look at the detailed pictures of ours here.

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/dashboard-triumph-tr4a.html

 

I have just gone through this drill.

 

Stuart is right as they just bolt on but for a great finish it is best to glue them on the sides too as you can get it really flat and it looks great.

 

Also, we found some trim clips in our bag of bits from the strip down and we used them to hold the trim against the metal back dash frame.

 

One tip we got off a trim guy was to use a heat gun to warm up the vinyl. It softens it and makes it really easy to shape in the awkward bits.

 

Ignore this if you are using leather.

 

Good look with it all.

 

Best

 

Paul

[smyllie]

Paul appreciate the advice and the pics really help. Great job on the dash.

[Bobble]

Paul

 

I looked at your web site - fantastic and really useful even though I am now almost at the end of my "restoration".

 

One question. I have replaced the facia (burr elm from TRGB) and dashtop but have had problems getting a decent fit above the air vents on each side. It's all in place now but I still have a gap of around 5mm between the vinyl/foam dashtop and the top of the vertical metal plate/facia panel. The method of trapping the excess vinyl between the dashtop and metal plate seems a bit dodgy. I see that you recommend contact adhesive after warming with a hot air gun, I understand that this would make the vinyl more flexible but what about the "solid" foam inside (expanded polyurethane)? Will applying heat allow me to push the dashtop down onto the vertical sections while I apply contact adhesive and is the glue strong enough to hold it down when it wants to return to its original shape? The dash has been refitted with all instruments in place and I don't really want to strip it all out again for the third time.

 

Any further advice would be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Bob

Edited February 8, 2016 by Bobble

[TR4A1965]

Bob.

 

Pictures help if you have any.

 

I would not go mad with a heat gun. I used it to make the vinyl pliable at the sides.

 

The aftermarket dashtops fit great but they do need to be held down whilst gluing?

 

This maybe your issue? Hard to tell without pictures?

 

The dash tops when dry fitted ned to be checked for how much the raise up above the metal.

 

To make it fit for us, I weighted it down whilst gluing as it naturally wanted to sit proud.

 

I did not have an issue with the air vents?

 

I did have an issue with instruments as the walnut dash and metal dash did not line up for the RPM and MPH guages.

 

It meant a little grinding was needed!!!!!

 

Best Paul

[Bobble]

Paul

 

Attached pictures aren't great (too many low level lights) but hopefully you will get the general idea.

 

The obvious gaps are above the two vents. My main concern is the dashtop staying down if I apply contact adhesive and "clamp" it down in some way (protected of course). Is the glue strong enough to grip the vinyl despite the dashtop doing its best to spring back to its natural form? In your experience can the dashtop be made more pliable in a warm environment?

 

We also had to grind away some of the metal dash in order to fit speedo and rev counter.

 

Thanks

 

Bob

 

 

[TR4A1965]

 

Hi Bob???

 

Not sure what is happening but at a guess - see picture it looks like your back metal dash is not aligning too well with the burr dash. That might sound obvious but look et the ignition and turn signal warning light.

They appear to be out the 5mm you state and my guess is the problem lies in this area.

 

If it were me, I would be taking the dash to bits again to source the issue.

 

It could be the lower crash pads pushing up the burr dash. Try fitting the dash with the lower crash pads off and see if it gets any better. It is only a few bolts so should be straight forward.

 

The vinyl dash top should be an exact fit and fitted first really. This would mean taking out the metal dash again. It is an easy fit and sticks down with not too much trouble.

 

Sorry I can't be much more help but my best guess and fix would be to do what you don;t want to do and that is strip it down again.

 

If it is any consolation, there were many parts and installations I had to do several times. The most annoying was forgetting to fit the ally ring on the steering column inside the engine bay. Had to strip the whole lot out.

 

it could be the steering column housing that is pushing up the dash too!

 

Best

 

Paul.

 

 

[Bobble]

Thanks again Paul - back to the drawing board.

 

The car will be returned to me in the next couple of weeks and I would like to drive it for the first time in over a year. I take your point and will certainly address the issue in the way that you suggest but probably not for a month or two.

 

I envy your knowledge (obviously acquired by a considerable time spent on your own superb vehicle).

 

Well done!

 

Bob

[TR4A1965]

No worries Bob.

 

My knowledge has been gained by making lots of mistakes and listening to the likes of Stuart and Roger on this Forum:-)

 

They usually have a fix for most things.

 

One thing I have now got a grasp of is 'If it doesn't fit don't force it' There is usually a reason it is not fitting:-)

 

Good luck and enjoy the drive.

 

Best

 

Paul.,

[stuart]

Quite often the scuttle itself is out of line where it rises above the speedo and rev counter instruments and the glove box, That is something to address early in the build with the screen frame off so you can look from the front of the car right down across it and then you can usually see the right line for them. You can still bolt the metal dash up but the lip line isnt right and pushes the dash top cover out of line, which is only really then noticeable when the wood dash is fitted.

Stuart.

[Bobble]

Thanks Stuart

 

I am copying and pasting all these words of wisdom for the time when I pluck up the courage to investigate further.

 

Other Bob (Smyllie) - sorry to have taken over your post but you may end up with a similar problem (nothing's simple as you have probably found out). I am rapidly finding that the annual subs. for membership are worth it for the forum alone.

 

Bob

[smyllie]

No worries, I have fitted mine and happy with the end result. Now I am onto the screen fitting. Was going to have a go myself but then read Roger's account and have located a firm who are fitting the screen into the frame for me.

 

Bob

[meesonia]

Hi just stripping my 4a and taken off the Dash Top, and the full dash so read the above with great interest, however different question but related. What colour / finish should the Dash Top Vents be? Mine have been re painted in a fairly thick and glossy ish dark grey semi hammer style. Yes strange. Welcome comments on what they should be. Thanks.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

[TR4A1965]

From what I can tell they were just painted a satin black with a very light coat of paint.

 

I chromed mine for a bit of dash top bling:-) Not everyone's taste but I like the look it gives as it matches the screen retainer clamps. This picture was a dry fit before they were screwed down.

 

http://tr4a.weebly.com/dashboard-triumph-tr4a.html

 

You can follow the link to see my dash but attached are the before and after pictures.

They had gone a nice shade of rust over time:-)

 

Watch the threaded pins when you take them out as they can be brittle and snap off whilst you jiggle them to get them out.

 

Best

 

Paul.

Edited February 22, 2016 by TR4A1965

[peejay4A]

I had mine powder coated black along with a load of other sundry parts.

[meesonia]

Thanks guys, nice look Paul, but a bit blingy for me. I've already taken out the Vents do know what you mean about the threads being 'twangy'

 

Ian

[stillp]

I sprayed mine gloss black. On reflection (deliberate play on words there!) I think I should have used satin black.

 

Pete

[gmw]

Hi guys,

 

I posted earlier on this thread, showing a pic of passenger side grab handle whilst it was sitting inside the house with the rest of the dash!

 

I finally finished the dash refurb this week.

Was a little over six weeks in the making (work & life kept getting in the way)........but I am very happy with the end result.

 

Attached here is a "before" and "after" pic.

 

It's great to have a working heater now also!

 

Now, what's next.............

 

Grant.

 

 

[D Murton]

Inspired by this thread & in particular the website of Paul (TR4A1965 ) I have decided to try recovering the lower crashpads on my 4A.

They are reasonable but the vinyl is split in a couple of places.

Can somebody suggest the correct vinyl. I assume this is the unbacked variety.

 

Also is the switch plinth recoverable or should I buy one from TR Shop?

 

Dave

[david c]

Re the crash pads, took the easy option and had them recovered by TRGB a very nice job they made of them too, they used a white cotton backed vinyl.

Also got them to do the top switch plinth and door top pads. The whole lot looks very much like leather.

As for the "H" frame I bought a very good proper leather cover off E Bay, My fitting does leave a little to be desired though.

 

 

The "H" frame cover was from PJM Motors. I have no connection with this company, just a satisfied customer.

 

Best regards David