RogerH Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) Hi Folks, just recently a number of posts have asked about how to tighten the splined clamps. Today I mod'd 4 to enable them to work correctly. In its original form the clamp area is not made correctly (in my opinion) and causes the clamp effect to be very limited. Have a look at the pic. You will see a slot that has been cut (centre of pic). In this slot you can see a bright triangle of metal This is what was stopping it/them working - you can't compress that much metal with a 1/4 unf bolt. The slot is 3/16" wide Roger Edited January 29, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) A lighter cure could be filing the material with a 3mm tungsten Dremel bit or just drill through with a 5-6 mm bit ? Edited January 30, 2016 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Hi Stef, your method is better than the original but is still limited to a degree. Although drilling the internal metal support away removes the major obstacle the bend line for the clamp is still very close to the centre of the bolt. Ideally the cut should go in-line with my slot all the way back to the other side of the clamp - but this is overkill. There are other options but all have a similar idea. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Out of interest I had one of these couplings break up on my TR4a and couldn't get a replacement (not sure if they are available now)? So I fitted a Mk2 Escort column coupling and it fits the column perfectly, is the same length and and a suitable, stronger replacement for the original. It has a rubber/fibrous disc in place of the rubber TR component, so is not so prone to disintegrating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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