Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi John,

Paul is pretty much on the ball there. However don;t give up it will improve.

 

Have you got nee shoes or old ones.

Old ones may be contaminated with oil/much

New ones may not be bedded in fully.

 

On each back plate the brake wheel cylinder must be free to slide back and forth.

The two cables need to be in good condition and lubricated.

The shoes need to match the drums pretty well - perhaps drive around applying the handbrake to help bed the shoes in.

The brake drum lever extender is well worth having - this gives about another 30% pull on the brakes.

If that is not enough then get access to the brake lever pivot and move the cable attachment closer tot he pivot - this can nearly double the applied force.

Some later brake levers are already mod'd with this closer pivot.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get an extender (or make one) which fits on the brake shoe lever and increases the leverage.

 

 

Agree, it is easy to cut a new, longer lever lever out of a 5mm steel plate.

A grinder is a good tool to do that job properly.

The little shaft can be knurled to be pressed into the new lever.

 

The post to hold the outer wire on the trailing arm should be adjusted

to form a straight line of the inner wire to the new lever.

 

If the brake wires are older they should be changed and from beginning

some Moly can be added to the inner wire.

Link to post
Share on other sites

See the Basic Maintenance pull-out, which Tony Sheach and I created and which was published as the centrefold of TR Action 273 (March 2014).

 

Handbrake on IRS cars

The mechanism of the handbrake on IRS cars is inferior to that of the TR2/3/4 for two reasons:

  • the hand lever is shorter in length,
  • and it operates two cables instead of one.

For this reason, many owners struggle to attain the efficiency required to pass the annual test – the MOT. There are two simple modifications which can dramatically - and inexpensively - improve the efficiency, and they should be undertaken in this order (as the owner may not consider the 2nd to be necessary):

  • extend the length of the lever at the backplate from 70 to 100mm (shown here),
  • move nearer to the fulcrum the point where the compensator link connects the two cables to the hand lever.

Each of these modifications will increase the movement required of the hand lever in direct ratio to the improvement in braking.

Details of the extension lever appear in “How to improve Triumph TR2-4A” by Roger Williams, but, for those who don’t have suitable workshop facilities, at least one of the well-known suppliers can supply a kit.

Ian Cornish

Sorry about the rectangle - it was a diagram in the original!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all just finished the restoration of my 4a irs took it for mot but failed on hand break spent hours on it but can't find the problem just can't ajust or improve it to get it right am I missing something

John

Did the tester realise it's a fly-off handbrake? Mine once failed because the tester couldn't release the brake.

 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John,

This always works for me, disconnect the cables at the two brake levers, back off the adjusters and operate the hydraulic brakes to check that they are working correctly and the drums rotate freely, this also helps centre the shoes and the cylinders (make sure they can slide in the back plates), then wind up the adjusters until the drums lock, back off just enough to rotate the wheel, then and only then re-connect the brake cables (you will probably have to adjust the cable lengths to get the clevis pins in and secured).

You should now have a hand brake that will pass the MOT with plenty in reserve. This is all assuming that your drums and shoes are all in good condition.

Good luck Rob

Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought and put the extenders on my 4a, and they worked really well.

 

No problems with my handbrake now.

 

Also, even experienced testers mess up on the fly-off handbrake.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's probably worth doing the mods, especially if the car is driven by someone with limited arm-power, but I would still do the adjustment as per Rob's description to ensure maximum efficiency and even braking. I always managed to get our TR4As' brakes adjusted satisfactorily without the mods but Lynda couldn't get the handbrakes on tight enough.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John,

This always works for me, disconnect the cables at the two brake levers, back off the adjusters and operate the hydraulic brakes to check that they are working correctly and the drums rotate freely, this also helps centre the shoes and the cylinders (make sure they can slide in the back plates), then wind up the adjusters until the drums lock, back off just enough to rotate the wheel, then and only then re-connect the brake cables (you will probably have to adjust the cable lengths to get the clevis pins in and secured).

You should now have a hand brake that will pass the MOT with plenty in reserve. This is all assuming that your drums and shoes are all in good condition.

Good luck Rob

Correct, make sure the adjustment on each cable is the same so the triangular cable holder behind the handbrake lever is straight on and it should pass without any problem. One of the reasons this comes up more nowadays is the MOT has changed and single line brake systems now require 20% of total effort, whereas dual line (i.e. TR5/6) only require 16%.

I have got over all that on my solid axle 4a (even worse h/brake than IRS due to twin cable angles of pull) by fitting 10" original Alfins.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I tend to use my handbrake once a year at the MOT test and leave it in gear otherwise...

 

I guess the first I'll know of it is when it fails, but I have fitted new drums, shoes, cylinders, cables etc etc and clean it all out properly once a year.

So you dont do hill starts then?

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I also have the extenders fitted which work fine but one thing worth mentioning is that more frequent brake adjustment will be required. The extenders work by greater leverage and the cable pivot moves through a greater arc which means the handbrake lever moves up a lot more to achieve lock up. I have found that the brakes need adjusting about every 3000 miles to avoid excessive movement on the lever.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all

I thought that the single line brakes didn"t have to go on a rolling road and could be done with the tapley meter on a road test, is this what its failing on, mine was done like this but it is a 4 and locked the back end anyway..

Phil..

You are allowed to opt for a Tapley test if you have a LSD fitted but otherwise for a TR unless the RR isnt working then it would be done on the rollers.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi Colt

Extended arms, - you can buy them off the shelf from CP fasteners http://cpfasteners.com/, Phil Barnett, he also sells excellent bonnet release kits 0747 4848243

 

Ian Cornish tested the brake levers and wrote up the results in TR Action.

 

Regards

Ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

I fitted the hand brake improvers and they worked a treat - well worth the money and stop all of the trouble.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.