Graham Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 After stipping BUO I have a big box of rusty bits that should be black, so a complete front grill, all the radiator and front panel supports air box plenumn chamber, cross tube Etc. First thought was to soda blast them all then prime and paint using rattle cans, then I saw http://www.blast-clean.co.uk/index.phpwho are not a million miles from me and the thought occurred that powder/stove enamelling might produce a better result but can anybody give me an opinion on the merits of each and what would the most appropriate. ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hi Graham, powder coating has the problem that 'if' the paint gets chipped then rust could get under the coating and do its worst with not much symptom on the outside until too late. Stove enameling may be better but is also quite hard and may chip. An acrylic aerosol paint coating has a bit of give and is easy to touch up - but doesn't look as good on day one. You have a mighty choice. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 (edited) Powder coat is good on parts that are tricky to spray because of "hidden corners". It's electrostatic go the powder gets in the corners. Not good for stuff that runs wet as Roger says. Delamination and flaking off. Best adhesion by miles is our ol' friend POR15. But must go on bare metal. Won't stick on other paint. If you are using "rattle" then VHT are making good paint and nozzles that work better than most. This is VHT wrinkle. You stove this at 100C: Edited November 29, 2015 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 I bought a nice powder gun and like small parts being powder coated. This material is not affected by fuel or oil and does not get scratches. Can be burned in in an old electric oven what limits the size. My PI plenum ist made with this technic and stays since five years. Also the front cover looks nice after powder coating and a bit more powder locks the little dimples from rust and creates a smooth surface. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Powder coating lasts for years if correctly done on the right surface, I did mine in 2 shades of grey thinking if I did find a crack it would show up far easier than Black. Its also good value for money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted November 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hm thanks guys I was planning to have a zinc primer applied first to hold off the rust as well, perhaps a Powder coat for the front grill and stove enamel for the items that are not in the direct firing line might be in order ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 If professionally done a double or tripple layer of powder coat can be applied. It starts with a rust proof primer that is also powder based, than a smoothing compound and the colour on top. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted November 29, 2015 Report Share Posted November 29, 2015 Two tone grey looks great Pete.......only another 48 shades to go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 Anlage komplett01.jpg Is your fuel rail held on with tie wraps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 1, 2015 Report Share Posted December 1, 2015 That would be fun........ The ties hold the loom....... The bolt that holds the injector blades now ties down the rail. In case of a backfire the injectors should stay in place.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 That would be fun........ The ties hold the loom....... PI Anlage komplett ohne Filter.jpg The bolt that holds the injector blades now ties down the rail. In case of a backfire the injectors should stay in place.... Ah, that looks better but a different rail in the second picture, surely. Did you make it yourself? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 I made both by myself. When I was ready first time I found a nice link from Nick Jones. There was the WWW of ROSS that offered the aluminium rail. The next rails are made from this extruded aluminium tube. They are all the same, spacer to clear the plugs above the manifolds and three connections to the bolts between the injectors. In goes a DASH-6 connector and out a DASH-5 connector to fit into the pressure regulator tube from the OPEL Omega V6 2.5. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Powder coating lasts for years if correctly done on the right surface, I did mine in 2 shades of grey thinking if I did find a crack it would show up far easier than Black. Its also good value for money. How did you clean out the taper holes? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 There are silicon plugs availiable in all sizes and special adhesive tapes. They lock places where the powder is not wanted. When heated up they can stay in place what mostly is the best idea because the surface is very vulnerable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted December 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 OK so taking on board all of the previous comments I decided to have the front grill surround blasted, zinc primed then powder coated. My thinking was that the powder coat would be more resistant to stone chips and if any water did get underneath the coating then the zinc primer would hold of the rust ………………. What I didn't appreciate was that the company would do this to whatever surface was left after blasting ( I did think they would call me if there was any issue) well they didn't and they primed and coated it anyway and the end result is ………………..shall we say not as I would have wished, especially for a component thats so visible, by contrast the rear gearbox mount has come out looking brand new …Sod's law I suppose Anyway my question is would I get away with filling OVER the powder coat and then respraying with a rattle can or am I off down the blaster again to get them to remove the original powder coat and then fill and start again. I know I can buy new front grills but my aim is to keep as much of the original car as possible. ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Blasting the powder coat is similar to what you wanted to achieve with the coating regarding high resistance against stone chips. So it is better to have the coating chemically removed or a catalytic burning if the base material allows that. Another idea might be to add another layer of powder to smooth the surface. Just to exclude every other mistake: The zinc primer hopefully was a powder, too and not a spray? I am asking for that because my primer is cream coloured and acts as a filler and creates a real smooth surface for the finish colour. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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