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4A Total Rebuild Q1-


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Hi All

 

I'm part way through what appears to be a long, slow, body off rebuild.

 

Story so far:-

 

Car totally stripped, parts bagged and labelled in boxes... hope I can find the boxes later! Had the chassis shot blasted/primed expecting a bit more welding... ended up having to have a new chassis from CTM (not in budget!).

Body; paintwork removed and etch primed by Enviro Strip in Tamworth, currently sat on a wooden cradle awaiting repair and gathering dust

Gearbox/diff re-built by Mike Papworth.

All suspension/brake components shot blasted primed and painted.... took me forever.

Front and rear suspension rebuilt, diff and prop fitted, new front brake discs and calipers, rear brakes all ready to fit.

Today I fitted the refurb'd steering rack c/w new bushes but not connected the track rods ends.

 

Q. The nearside front hub assembly is easily moved from side to side, almost with the flick of the wrist;

the offside front is really stiff... I need two hands to move it. So I can't understand what I might have

done wrong. The chassis is on jacks; when I compress the coil spring (slightly) then there is 'free'

movement. Trunnions have been refur'd and new top ball joints.

 

I'm expect to be told its something really obvious but I've got to the stage where pride

definitely takes a back seat.

I'm sure this won't be the last dumb question that I'll be posting!!

 

 

 

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Think geometry:

If the up right is stiff and the steering is not connected it is either pinching at the top (unlikely as it is circular ) or it is stiff in the trunnion.

If the trunnion is worn the spring pressure will push it out to the side -make it stiff hence when the spring is compressed it releases

Just a thought

Take the spring out and see how much movement there is on the trunnion /upright joint

Good luck

Michael

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Top ball joints will bind when the suspension is hanging regardless of geometry.

 

Jack up the spring pan slightly and see if it frees off.

Edited by peejay4A
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