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this quick job could save you a lot of trouble


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Take the end-cap off the wiper motor and check the carbon-brushes.

 

This bloke was lucky:

 

21852643190_eb1582b913_b.jpg

 

Once the arms reach the copper segments the motor is beyond economic repair.

New armatures are £85 and even rough motors are now worth £50.

 

New brushes are between £5 and £10.

Edited by AlanT
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No Richard. Some years ago I obtained new brushes for my DR3 at the Stoneleigh Show as part of a complete overhaul of the wiper system. They were NOS and came in a Lucas package complete with new arms and springs.

 

Tim

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You can fit new arms. Normally the old ones are seviceable and you just pop in new carbon.

 

I clean the arms in Silver-Dip but this is not vital.

 

Check also the small spring is not about to disintegrate. Prone to rust of course.

 

Do anything rather than run out of carbon. The armature segments are only about 1mm thick and the old practise of skimming them in a lathe is not likely to succeed.

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Should look like this:

 

20656132348_313b9faf91_b.jpg

 

Note the position of the red fibre-retainer. This are easy to loose/forget.

Also the grooves in the carbon go tangential to the commutator, not axially.

 

If you take the arms off, then be careful that the spring does not release from the T-pieces.

Dropping these T-pieces is a nightmare. I do have spares if you goof up!

 

I'm pleased with the crinkle finish I am putting on these now, by the way.

 

This is a good source of carbon-brushes.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-DR2-DL2-DR3-6W-Pair-Classic-Car-Wiper-Motor-Brushes-508170-17H5396-/191278301758?hash=item2c8913423e

 

The ebay search string to bring up more suppliers is:

 

lucas wiper brush

Edited by AlanT
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Hi Don,

in the first pic there are two red fibre plates. in the second there are is a red fibre and black plate (I think)

 

So the lower red plate is correct in both (I think)

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Spot on Roger. You can't assemble these wrongly. The top one is rivetted in place.

 

You can just forget or loose the bottom one. Not a lot happens if you do.

The arms can wiggle about a bit and the commutator makes a buzzy sound.

But it runs and stays together.

 

You can see the loose red bit in the bag here:

 

12570271904_1f8f902b7d_b.jpg

 

They are a funny shape, quite easy to break and hard to find as spares.

 

This brush gear is identical on all the motors used on TR's except the TR6.

Even the early CRT motors use them. But they are getting hard to find.

 

If you wind up like this you will need more than a spare arm:

 

13289259574_681945a2c4_b.jpg

 

Better designed motors loose electrical contact before they run out of carbon.

These just keep going until they tear themselves up.

Edited by AlanT
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Alan's writeups on Lucas wiper motors over the last few years have been most interesting and informative. I'd say he's a guru, too!

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I got a good laugh from the above post.

Not only did I work out that Dave had a 24V field coil, making his motor go too fast, I told him to get a new coil from Steve Hunt.

 

It's quite right though, that Steve has a big stock of spares and not only wiper stuff.

He does motors of all types. I do those that suit TR's, like this 4A 2-speed:

 

21868071130_bba16620aa_b.jpg

 

Steve's wife trades in leather goods and makes the most superior trouser belts.

I have worn one every day for about 8 years and its like new.

 

http://theleatherworker.com/index.php?langcd=en&page=defaulttpl&subpage=aboutus

Edited by AlanT
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On a 4/4A you can get the end-cap off without removing the motor from the car.

 

I need to find out if this is also easy/possible on a 2/3/3A.

 

In other words is the motor mounted so that you get easy screwdriver access to the rear end.

You will also need a couple of inches to withdraw the long bolts that hold it all together.

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On a 4/4A you can get the end-cap off without removing the motor from the car.

 

I need to find out if this is also easy/possible on a 2/3/3A.

 

In other words is the motor mounted so that you get easy screwdriver access to the rear end.

You will also need a couple of inches to withdraw the long bolts that hold it all together.

It is also possible on a 5 as they use the same motor. 3/3a motors can also be done though an original TR2 motor isnt quite so easy.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart, was hoping you would be along.

 

Of course, the CRT motors have a fiddly plasctic end cap.

I must remember to take some photos of how you do it with these.

 

Good job I have one.

 

Also thanks for reminding me that 5's use the DR3A also.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, anticipating a rush from readers, I ordered some brushes. Took the end cap off the motor today (mustn't rush these things) only to find the comm in perfect condition, and the brushes aren't even worn down to the base of the serrations.

 

Good tip though Al, thanks.

 

 

Pete

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Well, anticipating a rush from readers, I ordered some brushes. Took the end cap off the motor today (mustn't rush these things) only to find the comm in perfect condition, and the brushes aren't even worn down to the base of the serrations.

 

Good tip though Al, thanks.

 

 

Pete

You obviously dont use the car in the rain enough! :lol:

Stuart.

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Get out there and drive it - yesterday and today were beautiful.

 

Roger

Yes Roger, we had a great drive out on Sunday for a lunch & 'trash'!

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