dpb Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Time to renew oil and filter, and I wondered if it was thought best to do the spin-on conversion or not? A bit of searching on the forum didn't reveal much, except that getting old o rings out seems to be a frequent problem/missed opportunity with resultant leakage. Any general problems with keeping the original set-up? And is it the same sort of filter for both old types? (GFE104?) Cheers Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 After a few goes with the original set up, that long bolt seemed to take an age to undo, I went for a spin on conversion and I would not go back. I use K+N HP-2009 filters and they're wrench-offable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi Dave, much the same as Pete. I changed at the end of the 90's when they had leaking issues. I sorted it myself but I understand that they are all OK now. I would not go back either. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 That'll do for me then. Conversion it is. Must be something I can use the old canister for, it is a very pleasing bomb-shape. Maybe a cocktail-shaker. Maybe a jelly mould. Thanks Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 I have the original set up and no problems. Dunno what causes the desire to change, or the advantages. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi LJ, the advantage is the ease of changing the filter. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Get an the conversion kit with a mini type oil filter - wide scissor grips are the easiest to get the filters off at oil change time if you fit an adapter to have an oil cooler make sure that the combination of adapter plate oil cooler take off plate and oil filter match so as to exclude an oil short circuit Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Although I haven't changed to spin-on/off on the TR, I did the conversion on my old Vitesse several years ago and the main difference was that with the spin-on I actually DID change the Vitesse's filter reasonably often. With the original set-up on the TR and the messiness of the job, I tend to put it off for as long as possible - and probably longer than I should! Yeah, I know - get on it, Tim... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 (edited) I converted some time ago so reasons a bit fuzzy now. Ease of change and availability of filters/cost were a couple of reasons. Also I seem to recall the conversion did not drain so cranking waiting for the carbs to prime/cold starting was not done "dry". IS that right or am I getting mixed up with my old Spitfire setup?? Mike Edited August 10, 2015 by MikeF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Hi Mike, I think you are right. The original filter was fitted dry as the bolt would allow the oil out before tightened. The spin-on filter can be almost full when fitting thus allowing the oil pressure to get to max in a short time. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 There is advice in the "Basic Maintenance" document, which was included as the centrefold in TR Action a couple of years ago, about filling the old tin-can filter unit before starting the engine. I've pasted below my advice from the document. As you will realise, I'm using the old tin can - why, you may ask? Well I tried the spin-on, but the seal between adaptor and the original body of the filter (i.e. the part bolted to the engine) didn't want to stay leak-free, so I reverted to the old tin can, which scarcely leaks at all. Ian Cornish Pour – slowly – new oil into the filler in sufficient quantity to reach the minimum mark, remove the sparking plugs and remove one connection to the ignition coil (but don’t let it short to earth!). Run the starter until the oil pressure gauge lifts off zero – this takes a while, as the bowl has to be filled with oil before any pressure shows. Replace and re-connect the plugs, replace the coil connection and start the engine, observing the oil pressure gauge. Check the filter bowl to ensure that it is not leaking. Let the oil settle, then top-up to the normal level (see above). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Yep, sounds like a conversion to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 I bought the Rimmers conversion at the weekend, not fitted it yet, (Just thought you might like to know ) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted August 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Mine on order too. Leak report soon.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Mine on order too. Leak report soon.. "Report leaked soon"...? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Hi all, I did this on the new engine I've just built for TS2016. It's great, no problems. Just changed the filter after running in and it's still fine. Damn site easier than before. Regards, Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 ´damn sight easier than before' it may be but it isn't real TRing . Nothing like getting hot old engine oil everywhere, I think it's the smell I like James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 I fully agree with Ian. I tried a spin-on conversion twice without success, on both occasions I suffered leaks, one time on a newly block paved drive - the wife was not happy! I reverted to the original canister and change the element and oil religiously every 3,000 miles. It's no hassle since I have an inspection pit and I find it possible to fill the filter assembly at least 2/3 full without oil running down my arm when installing it. I also always build up oil pressure on the starter motor with plugs out before attempting to start the engine. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PeteT Posted August 15, 2015 Report Share Posted August 15, 2015 Sounds a bit pervy to me James however I used to love the smell of five star petrol. Sadly modern fuels don't do it for me. Regards Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted August 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Leak Report. Drained the old grey sludgy oil out. Removed the old oil filter. Fitted filter conversion kit (rubbish instructions). Fitted new-fangled hex-headed drain sump bolt (much better). Filled with flushing oil as old oil was so bad. Guess what. Spin on conversion-piece spewed oil out all over. Took it off, fitted old seal with the new conversion-piece.. Put it back. Tried again. Still leaking oil but nowhere near as badly. Ran for about 10-15 minutes. Drained flushing oil out. Just as draining was finishing I knocked the container over and it spilled all over the garage floor. So now I have 1: a messy garage. 2: A leaking filter conversion. 3: a very fed-up demeanour 4. A car still not running. doh. Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Having tried the spin-on conversion and, following leakage which persistently refused to cease, I reverted to the old tin can. And I don't change the 'O' ring unless I suspect that it might be knackered! My TR2 managed more than 65,000 miles on one 'O' ring, and the TR4 seems quite happy after a number of oil changes. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Dave. Re changing to spin on filter, this extract from another thread may be usefull. No leaks have been apparent since doing the conversion. Bob. Next job was oil & filter change, so up on ramps, & left for an hour with the (now hot) oil draining out. Removed (original type) filter - cleared up all the spilt oil, & then set about cleaning up the filter housing in preparation for fitting a spin-on adaptor kit. Mine is the Purolator type, & has two ball valves, one for setting max pressure (adjustable), & another fixed one. I'guessing that the second one is to bypass the filter should it become blocked ? I could see the ball on the fixed one, & it looked pretty grubby, so I removed the cap, spring & ball, & then cleaned out the housing, & the removed parts. Before re-fitting, I used an old M/Cycle trick of re-seating the ball in its seat by tapping it into the seat with a copper rod. Reassembled, then did the same with the adjustable ball valve. I removed the whole thing, & cleaned, re-seated on the bench. Then, after replacing adjustable valve, finally de-greased the housing, removed old rubber ring, & put in the new one which came with the (rimmers) kit. degreased the small screw thread on the adaptor, applied some locktite to the thread, & assembled the whole adaptor to the old housing. fitted filter, filled up with 11 pints of penrite 20-60, disconnected ign coil, & cranked over till oil pressure came up. It came up to 50PSI . Reconnected coil, started up, & checked pressure at 2000 RPM - 70 PSI just like the book says !! tomorrow I will see if cleaning & re-seating the ball valves has improved the hot oil pressures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Really fed-up now. Thought I had fixed it yesterday, with putting a new seal in, and a new filter, and filled with lovely good oil. Ran fine with no leaks that I could detect. This morning setting off to get my lovely new Vredestein T Tracs fitted, sure enough there was a fine trickle of oil all the way out of my garage and onto the road. Checked it and the conversion piece was leaking at the seal. Back in my garage, tyre fitting cancelled. Rubbish. Did briefly consider going to get the tyres done anyway, but today is the start of Manx Grand Prix week (M/C racing), and putting a nice line of oil along a bit of the TT course is probably not a great idea. One more go then I am going back to the original set up. Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Dave. If the adaptor is like mine there are two seals which have to be compressed at the same time. An 'O' ring fitted in a recess in the top of the adaptor, & an original type square section ring which fits in the groove in the filter head. I was very carefull to completely clean out this groove, & when I first trial fitted the adaptor, I made sure that both seals were making contact at the same stage of tightening. They were, so I then applied locktite to the small thread, & fully tightened the adaptor into the filter head. As long as the outer seal in being compressed, there is no reason for it to leak. Suggest you check that 1) the groove is clean 2) that the outer seal is being compressed hard by the adaptor (just like the old cannister would do) If it is not, then maybe the inner 'O' ring is too fat, or the adaptor needs skimming at that point to let the inner 'O' ring sit further down? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted August 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 HI Bob Sounds like the same type to me. I thought I had cleaned out the groove properly. It looks shiny. I'll have another go. The inner ring seems to sit quite well, but the outer seal seems a bit thick for the groove. I had imagined that tightening it up would seal it. Obviously not. I'll take it all apart later and see if I can see what is going wrong. If the adaptor has come loose then Locktite might be a good idea. Anyway, thanks for your persistent help Bob. I'll venture into the garage once I've got over my disappointment. Watching the cricket at the moment. Its not helping. Cheers Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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