Rosy Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 My TR4 runs perfectly and goes like a bomb, then suddenly the engine will die exactly like it is running out of petrol. After a few minutes it will restart and run again for a few minutes then it happens again. I changed the petrol pump which was my first suspect. However today when it happened again I saw that the fuel bowl was full. The tank is new and the petrol feed pipes are new as is the bowl filter. Seems like it is not fuel starvation then but what else would give these symptoms? As I said otherwise the car has been running perfectly. Seems to be intermittent anyway....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 Are you sure its fuel and not ignition - do you have electronic ignition fitted or have you recently changed any ignition parts ? Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 Do you still have spark when it dies? Bad condensor (ignition capacitor)? Bad coil? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 I had this once and it was a loose connection on the low tension lead on the distributor. Eventually the wire parted company completely and then it was obvious (but embarrassing as I didnt spot it - it was my mate who came out to rescue me!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rosy Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 Well I have maybe come to the same conclusion - maybe I should get a new distributor and coil - one of the Stealth electronic jobs to get rid of the points and condenser and a 1.5 ohm coil? Anyone got a set up like this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rosy Posted July 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 Must be a loose connection though because when it is going it is going brilliantly! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR5tar Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 When I had similar symptoms, I think it was the coil failing. Been fine since I changed it. Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Hi Rosy, the fuel tank cap should have a very small vent hole in it. It sounds like you are creating a vacuum in the tank. When you stop for a short time the vacuum is reduced (or increased) and will then allow fuel flow. When it happens next pop the tank cap and listen for air rushing in - don't stand too close. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 condenser first, coil then. With fuel starvation there are advance warnings i.e. hiccups on acceleration Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rosy Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Update: now new coil, accuspark ignition, cleaned new plugs - still not right! Starts fine but having difficulty revving up now. No dancing sparks in the dark. I still think it is petrol Doesn't seem to be any tank vacuum building up? I noticed that one of the strombergs air valve seemed to be sticking - so that was cleaned and polished until it dropped the same as the other one. But afterwards same as before. Now thinking a sticking valve? Won't rev up now without a struggle....very frustrating since it was going like a bomb before! Any ideas anyone? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Strongberg diaphram split ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
flinty Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 I had a similar problem, after a lot of trial and error it turned out to be the Rotor arm. if it is a tight fit on the spindle it will be cracked. Steve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hi Rosy, Put ALL the suspected ignition parts back in - clearly they were not at fault and appear to have created more problems. AND takes a few minutes to start again Regarding the original problem - You say it stops as if short of fuel - so it futters to a stop and not cut out instantly (is this true). After replacing the above with the OLD original bits, go for a drive. When it futters to a stops qujickly get out and release the fuel cap; then try to start the car. It should need a little bit of cranking to get the fuel flowing but will start within 30 seconds. Continue the drive with the fuel cap either removed or sitting loose (this must be done AFTER the first breakdown to prove one thing or another). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rosy Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Thanks for the suggestions! It seems that the problem was related to one carburettor not functioning correctly. Now that it has been cleaned, polished and put back with the air valve free to move correctly, the dampers topped up with a light oil rather than engine oil everything is perfect! Not sure about what was happening - either the choke was sticking open on one carb causing an imbalance or the air valve sticking (maybe more so with heat?) open - hard to say. When putting back the stomberg dash pot I noticed that it was quite easy to get the air valve to stick due to the alignment of the top - all the screws need to be 'just right'? Diaphragms were new as befits the restoration work done but I had to give the sooted up plugs a good blast as the final finishing touch. Anyway, happy that we are back on song - now with a new fuel pump and electronic ignition ready for another year's hibernation while I go back to work (unless someone makes me an offer - see the classifieds!) Thanks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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