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Fan pulley rubbing on steering rack


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Hi all,

Just noticed that I have a nice new shiny band around the pulley where it meets the steering rack. I know that the gap is too thin to get a fan belt through (who designed that?) but what should this gap be clearly it should not it be as close as this?

 

I have ordered new engine mountings off Ebay (square ones) and am hoping that fitting these will sort it out. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

Charles

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The design gap is close enough so that you get an audible warning

when your engine mountings are too saggy,

 

But NOT so much that you can get a fanbelt through without hassle.

 

I think you knew that. :unsure:

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
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I remember shims being fitted to the TR3-style rectangular

engine mountings - these seemed to be original.

 

Don't recall ever seeing them the TR4 round mountings,

and I've restored two TR4s that certainly didn't appear

to have been messed around with. Anyone?

 

AlanR

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Hi

 

Usually this means that your engine mounts have failed or gone soft to the point that they don't keep the engine high enough to clear the rack - you can shim them as above, however a 'bodge' like this doesn't deal with the fact that the rubber has deteriorated and ultimately will fail. If you do add steel shims of any more that about 1/16th thick you will also increase the amount of vibration that the engine transmits through the car (I've tried part and fully solid mounts on a TR4 to try to remove the soggy / failing mounts issue at source, but they are a necessary evil.

 

The answer is to replace the mountings with the best quality mount that you can get. Some of the aftermarket mounts are made of rubber suitable for dog toys, so you need to be careful what you buy. In my experience the round landrover products tend to be appreciably better and only slightly larger than the TR4 types and the same sort of price. There are more expensive alternatives, including reinforced alloy / poly mounts and 'world cup' encased rubber mounts as per the MK1 Escort, but those outer boxes are hand fabricated and very hard to source

 

You can replace the mounts by jacking the engine up as high as it will go into the battery tray / bulkhead, so it's not necessary to take the engine out or split the gearbox etc. although you do have to be prepared to wiggle and shuffle the engine from side to side on the jack to get te old ones out (easy) and the new ones in (harder) - I have done this 'in the field' on a rally, so it's Definately a do at home in a warm garage job.

 

Remember to protect the bulkhead from the uplifted gearbox bell housing, use decent stands and protect the bottom of the sump with a wooden plank to stop the jack knarly get it's way through as you jack and turn the assembly etc.

 

Hope this is useful.

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Tony, I wouldn't condone a bodge as you put it. I will point out that part number 134234 is listed in the TR4 parts catalogue as Washer Packing to be used in conjunction with the engine mounts. It's also shown as item 79 in the Moss catalogue external engine page. If the mounts are worn of course they should be replaced.

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Hi Pete

 

Triumph made a number of 'adjustment' parts like this to deal with out of tolerance / wide tolerance parts, common parts as well as subsequent failures and gave them part numbers. You quote then nicely.

 

In this case the part you note was to offer / make possible the use of a 'common' part between models, that commonality required a shim to make it 'common' for the TR4 as well and also variability in the Positioing of the turret edge to which the mount attaches.

 

This was all about reducing cost, not necessarily offering any adjustment or advantage. The shim in this case comes in three variants that I'm aware of, a large one for the TR2 to 3a offering commonality with the Vanguards maybe ? The round TR4 type of a disc with a slot cut (common with some BMC cars plus others maybe ?) and a rectangular one for the TR4a.

 

I call them a bodge (if you will allow me) because if the mount is of the correct size height for the job / correct for the car and the engine dead straight, the job is done properly and no shim is required. Shims fall out in use, so it's not a permanent fixing unless they are tabbed in place, which they are not.

 

Regards

 

Tony

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I'm not going to argue the toss which gets us nowhere. They're listed as washers, they're available and they shouldn't strictly be necessary but they could be employed if needed.

 

Incidentally the LR mounts I fitted have metric threads so make sure you get the right nuts.

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Thanks for all the advice. I have new square engine mounts and will crank up the engine taking care of clearances to bulkhead and see what the new mounts do, will also replace the fan belt so should be good for another few thou miles :)

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